Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 44

Thread: Hard Wax Oils

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

    Default

    From my experience all the HWO benefited from sanding/denibbing after both coats. The osmo is softer so you can denib very easily with a fairly high grit. Osmo and whittle waxes I found it easier to use a lower grit and really need to get powdery/silky smooth which is a little more work. I dont remove the powder before applying the second coat, it seems to dissolve into the second coat and you dont really notice it

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Location
    Sunbury
    Age
    72
    Posts
    23

    Default

    After the second coat once its good and dry you can get a really nice smooth finish by lightly sanding with 1500 or 2000 grit

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    1,806

    Default

    Is either the Osmo or Fiddles hard wax oils overkill for a workbench finish? I’m considering it but for 2.5l it’s $230 where I have plenty of Tung and danish oil at the moment and some beeswax I’m considering mixing up to use on the bench.

  5. #19
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,662

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    Is either the Osmo or Fiddles hard wax oils overkill for a workbench finish?
    Yep.

    It'll look wonderful for....phwooaa....a week...two? After that it'll start looking like a beat up work bench (or at least it should), and you'll soon tire of pouring on expensive finish to bugger it up and do it again.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Age
    60
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    Is either the Osmo or Fiddles hard wax oils overkill for a workbench finish?
    I used a 50:50 mixture of BLO:Turps for my workbench, it doesn't need more. I rub some more in after it gets beaten up - which is often! No need to make it pretty.
    Swifty

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,207

    Default

    I'm using hardwax oil for the base/frame, as once protected with a couple of coats this won't ever need recoating. Undecided what to use for the top, but I'm still doing the insets for surface mount end vise and I have the dog holes yet to do as well. Top will probably end up with whatever oil/mixture I have sitting in my cupboard.

    Now that I've switched to hardwax for general finishing, I think I have a leftover can of danish oil that will never get used for anything else.....

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    237

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    Is either the Osmo or Fiddles hard wax oils overkill for a workbench finish? I’m considering it but for 2.5l it’s $230 where I have plenty of Tung and danish oil at the moment and some beeswax I’m considering mixing up to use on the bench.
    I used the OSMO Clear Extra Thin on my workbench (not your old one Delbo!) and it still looks great after a couple of years. I also use OSMO 3032 on my boxes - simply wipe on with a soft cloth.

    OSMO is designed for timber floors and is what Thor's Hammer uses on their timber floors so if it works on floors should be fine on workbench.

    A little bit goes a very long way. My only issue has been that the lids of the tins are very thin and the edges curl up when opening. I did have to throw half a tin of the Thin out as air got in and because of the massive skin on top I reckoned the composition had changed too much and it was too risky to use. A bit sad.

    Jane

  9. #23
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,662

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lovetoride View Post
    My only issue has been that the lids of the tins are very thin and the edges curl up when opening. I did have to throw half a tin of the Thin out as air got in and because of the massive skin on top I reckoned the composition had changed too much and it was too risky to use. A bit sad.
    Stoploss bags will allow you to get perhaps 2 years out of a can. I recently pushed it 3 years but there seems to be an issue with the Whittle HWO drying – it did eventually but took a couple of weeks.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    1,068

    Default

    I keep my Osmo tins in sealable sandwich bags or put a disposable rubber glove over the top to keep air out. Works a treat.

    Regards,

    Brian

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,207

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Stoploss bags will allow you to get perhaps 2 years out of a can. I recently pushed it 3 years but there seems to be an issue with the Whittle HWO drying – it did eventually but took a couple of weeks.
    I had the same issue with the tops of Osmo cans - lucky I've used the last of it up, as I just about destroyed the lid getting it off the last time. I'll have to see how the Fiddes cans behave.

    Stoploss bags are a good idea for this type of finish, I'll have to invest in a few. Easiest/best place to get them?

    Cheers

  12. #26
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,662

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Brush View Post
    Stoploss bags are a good idea for this type of finish, I'll have to invest in a few. Easiest/best place to get them?
    Used to be Timberbits, but they don't carry them now.
    StopLoss Bags – 4 Pack | Fiddes Australia

    I'm currently researching what AliExpress have (given that Stoploss are made in China). They have heaps of things that are close, but nothing so far that is "three-ply, to prevent you buying cheaper, more fairly priced substitutes".
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,207

    Default

    Cheers - I'll order some direct from Fiddes. Our local Fiddes outlet (not surprisingly) doesn't keep these.

    With the price of finishes these days, you only have to waste one can through going off to cover the cost of 4 Stoploss bags !

  14. #28
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    237

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by homey View Post
    I keep my Osmo tins in sealable sandwich bags or put a disposable rubber glove over the top to keep air out. Works a treat.

    Regards,

    Brian
    I do have it in a sealed bag now. Originally from carrying it in the car then thought I would just leave like that.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    1,068

    Default

    I've been keeping Osmo and other finishes in their cans slipped into resealable sandwich bags or freezer bags for years. Never had a problem with skinning over or going off. For stuff I used most regularly the disposable rubber glove over the top of the time is also a winner. Low cost, no need to take the product out of the can, cans still stack OK and you still have all the information on the label available.

    Regards,

    Brian

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    1,806

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Yep.

    It'll look wonderful for....phwooaa....a week...two? After that it'll start looking like a beat up work bench (or at least it should), and you'll soon tire of pouring on expensive finish to bugger it up and do it again.
    My thoughts exactly, I’ll save the Nicer more expensive finishes for other projects. I’ll use what I have on the bench it should be fine for at least a few months

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Hardwax oils - Fiddes Hard wax oil vs
    By qwertyu in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 29th August 2021, 11:30 AM
  2. Oils aint oils; but what of CA
    By brendan stemp in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 4th July 2011, 06:42 PM
  3. Oils aint Oils
    By Jerryj in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 6th February 2011, 03:34 PM
  4. oils aint oils
    By kwaka in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 4th February 2011, 04:07 PM
  5. CA Glue - Oils aint oils.......Sol
    By Bob38S in forum GLUE
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 15th February 2010, 10:34 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •