Thread: Oil but glossy plz help

I received tru oil today and I couldn't wait to give it a go, the results are fantastic. The application is simple and instant the look you get can be as glossy as you want everything is applied by rag or paper towel not sure which of the two is better but I will find out. After 24 hrs of drying of the first coat you can apply every two hrs there after.

Now having said all that I also do like the sheen you can create with Livos and I'm very much looking forward in experimenting with the pure tung oil using Rob's burnishing technique. After spending hundreds of dollars on various products I'm finally settling on something that works for me. What's amazing though in the end watco danish oil, organoil danish, rustins danish, liberon etc all are good and the differences between them are suttle with the exception of Livos. Livos really creates a unique look that I haven't seen in other oils and it must have something to do with the wax content.

I now know that oils like the Minwax Finishing oil has a higher content of poly in it and since I'm on the subject of poly the minwax wipe on poly cannot compare to their other product the fast drying poly semi gloss. When diluted with metho the finish is far superior to it's wipe on brother.

Anyway I wanted to mention all of that because I'm over the mooon with joy that I'm almost complete with all these experiments and I'm finally settling down to a few products I can stick with.

Rob I'm looking forward in getting your response to what I asked you earlier. This will be my final lesson.

The smiley is not in agreeance lets hope he's wrong.

If you can bear with me until tomorrow PM, I'll post the method with photos at the different stages, so you know what to expect.

Regards,

Rob

Sure I can they said it will take a week from today before it arrives from Melbourne. I truly appreciate mate.

OK...
I have used two samples for this demonstration.
a. a Fiddle back Red Gum strip and
b. a Birds-eye Huon Pine block. Fig.1 and 2

1. Sand the raw timber starting at 100g and going through 120,150,180,240 grits then finishing at 400 grit. See Fig.3 and 4 (Note that Pic 1 and Pic 4 are out of order. They should be reversed)
2. Give the work piece a rub down with a tack cloth or a cloth and Mineral turps. (Just wet the rag, don't drown the timber.)
3. Once the piece is dry, mop your 50/50 mix of Oil and White Spirit onto the surface of the wood. You will be looking for a glistening coat, which does not disappear immediately into the wood. See Fig.5 and 6
4. Allow the oil/spirit mix to sit on the timber for 20 -30 minutes.30 minutes is probably best. See Fig.7
5. After the incubation period is over, begin wet sanding. Start with the 400 grit pad you have just dry sanded with. You will get adequate (ideal) sanding by running up and back along the section of surface you are working on 5 times each way. A total of 10 passes.
6. You will notice a slurry form as you sand. This is oil and saw dust. the friction caused by sanding wet generates enough heat to polymerise the Tung Oil. Your incubation time was what allowed the oil to penetrate the wood. (Fig.8 and 9) shows what the slurry should look like. Note that it is not a great gluggy mess but a thinner, easily moved slurry.)
7. Continue up through the grits 800, 1200, 1500 and 2000. If you can get 4000, I would use this too. You will notice that the slurry gradually disappears until at 2000g it is essentially gone.
8. Now vigorously wipe the surface down with a dry cotton cloth.
9. You are finished.
Figs.10, 11 and 12. show the finished boards, looking down on them and along the surface. Note how subtle variations in the grain are now clearly visible.

Adding Wax to the surface (if you wish). Note that the burnishing renders the wood resistant to radiant heat and hot and cold liquids, waxing may affect these properties.

I used UBeaut EEE cream first then UBeaut Traditional Wax after. This was done within 10 minutes of finishing the burnishing.
Fig.13 and 14 show the boards with Wax at the right hand side of the pencil line.

So you get a brilliant finish, with high grain resolution, which is dry pretty much immediately after you finish. Any questions, please PM me.

Regards,

Rob

That looks excellent Rob and thank you for going out of your way to teach me, I noticed you only used one coat. Great work again mate I've copied your instructions down so I'll always have it on hand. JUst one thing you used mineral turps to cean the timber I've always used metho is there a reason why you chose turps over metho

Sorry, I should have said that I add another lot of oil just before sanding, But only enough to make the surface shiny again.

The Turps is just a personal thing. Metho will, of course, dry much faster.


Regards,

Rob

Glad that the True Oil is working for you.

Remember that you can apply true wax afterwards also.

I like True Oil coz its easy and gives a durable surface. The old Anschutz 22Hornet stock I re-finished, I used it out in the feld a fair bit and it got rained on occasionally etc.

The true oil worked for me and 30 years later the Anschutz still looks good - but admittedly these days she's become a bit of a safe queen. My eldest bloke is keen to break it out and get started with her tho...maybe it will serve him as well as it did me.

Ok well thanks again Rob I'm really looking forward in getting started with this.

Timeless timber I never knew tru oil was so old it really is a remarkable product and you don't need alot of it to do the job, I've seen some youtube stuff on it and some really flood the surface with it but I think it's just a waste.