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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Default Poly over linseed oil

    Putting some linseed oil on a plywood sheet as a backing for a cupboard.
    My question is it worth putting some wipe on poly for a gloss...does it work?
    cheers mick

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    Upper Hutt, New Zealand
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    Default

    Mick. Sorry for the late response but as you can see I'm only recently joined.
    My bible, ('Finishing' by Jeff Jewitt), says that linseed oil can be 'topped' with a nitrocellulose finish (lacquer). He warns, however, that these will 'yellow' over time. I would also suggest leaving as long as possible before topping to allow the linseed to cure.
    Cheers,
    Pete

  4. #3
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    Oct 2018
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    tasmania
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    Thanks Pete..will have a think about it. Coated some scrap plywood with linseed and left overnight and looks okay for what I want..quick question for a novice..do multiple layers(linseed) make any difference.
    Cheers mick

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
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    63
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    13,354

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mick55 View Post
    Thanks Pete..will have a think about it. Coated some scrap plywood with linseed and left overnight and looks okay for what I want..quick question for a novice..do multiple layers(linseed) make any difference.
    Cheers mick
    Not really, provided you applied a good first layer and didn't skimp.

    You can wait some time, up to a few weeks, for the linseed to polymerise and give it a "top off" coat. The first layer will soak in and set in the timber, preventing the second coat from soaking in as far and thus setting "at" the surface. In practise, I find I don't see a difference and don't bother. One coat'll do 'er.

    I also assume that you're using BLO? Raw Linseed will cure eventually, but it's measured in months and years, not days and weeks, so raw is definitely not suitable for a top coat.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  6. #5
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    tasmania
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    Umm using raw..what is BLO presume it's something linseed oil...learning curve happening here...

  7. #6
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    BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil.

    Which isn't quite accurate; modern stuff has metallic dryers added, which helps it polymerise (cure) quickly.

    While raw LO is good for cricket bats, tool handles, etc., it takes forever and a day to dry. Precisely why it's used for those things! But not so good when you're making furniture or household items and using it as a finish.

    Don't get me wrong; I'm not saying that you need to redo what you've done. That should work fine, although fine dust may have a tendency to stick to it for a while. It'll definitely be a looong time before it's cured enough for a top coat of poly though...

    If you're a tad concerned you can always give it a second coat of BLO and the metallic dryers in that will also help to accelerate the raw stuff's curing.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    tasmania
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    Default

    thanks mate...will search out some BLO..the raw is doing the job as a back piece for my project but i have learn't something today which is always good.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Bunnies has BLO so easy to find. Never used it so cannot comment on quality.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    SE Melb
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    Oiled based poly over raw linseed oil will set just fine. You can even mix up to 30 % of raw linseed oil with
    Oil based poly and it will set over night.

  11. #10
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    tasmania
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    Default

    Thanks for that..

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Melbourne
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    BLO does not dry hard unless you have drying agents as mentioned above so it will depend on what you want to do with it and whether your cupboard will be e.g. wiped down one day. With poly, oil based or otherwise, make sure the LOil has dried and check that there is no "incompatibility" issues. You don't want an orange peel effect at a later stage.
    Livos Australia

    <O</O

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