Thread: Recycled Blackbutt Decking for Screening

Hi There and welcome to the forum,

You'll find that the thicknesser will do the job the fastest - it just depends on the thicknesser (bigger = faster). Sharp blades also help with speed - blackbutt isn't exactly soft and the general consumer thicknessers are liable to chew out a fair bit of blade running the boards through them.

I've just finished cleaning up some blackbutt and tallowwood floorboards using my thicknesser that were nearly black (they were from an old school) and the difference was night and day. But to get 40lm through still took an afternoon ( I had to be fussy about everything being the same thickness though, which means that if one board needs to be re-done, they all need to be re-done).

The other good thing about using the thicky is that you at least take a consistent amount off. Using a sander, you'll get variations along the length. It may not matter in your application, but from a general point of view, it helps.

Local mills will be unlikely to take on this kind of timber, because they don't want to destroy their blades on a bunch of forgotten nails unless there is decent money in it for them. But, to be fair, ring them and find out - maybe you can come to an agreement with them regarding metal removal.

With regards to finish, my first suggestion is to use the search function and look for "outdoor finish" and set aside a few weeks. There's a lot of information and it's not one size fits all. Some finishes are low maintenance but a pain to install. Others are higher maintenance but easy. Durability may vary wildly depending on if the screen is exposed to northern sun or southern shade.

One big thing to remember with clear finishes outdoors - they always need replacement/rejuvenation. Consider that process (and how often that type of finish is going to need it) when you go with a solution. I favour oils, because after the initial soaking, they generally just need a blast/scrub and re-application and 2 - 3 year cycles doesn't seem so bad. Some prefer the poly type finishes because of the 5 - 10 year survival and then make their peace with having to sand the whole thing off and start again.

For reference, the clear outdoor oil that I use is Deks Olje D1 and I love it, but it's marine rated and marine priced (and only available from Whitworths and Classic Boat Supplies in Belrose), so if that isn't your cup of tea, then you'll need to read elsewhere on the forums (because I can't speak to any other product with authority). It does darken the wood somewhat (as you'd expect with any oil), but the grain is still well and truly there.

I hope all that helps - but please, read around regarding finishes, there's a lot of info on these forums already, some of which includes reviews at the 1, 2, 5, 10 or even 20 year mark.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome horsey.

I have to rain on your parade a little I'm afraid. Having used Blackbutt once in an outdoor situation, I would never ever do it again (actually wasn't my choice or work). Tallowwood is the go.

Blackbutt like to split. Sun and rain makes timber split. Bb + Sun + Rain = disaster waiting to happen.

Now I haven't used Deks Olje D1 that theimage refers to, and will defer to him on that, but it sounds really expensive ($200+ for 4 litres is it?) it's only about $35 per litre, so that's not too bad at all. I might have to try that

Blackbutt can have very nice grain so maybe keep it for some other use?

Originally Posted by themage21

Deks Olje D1 does darken the wood somewhat (as you'd expect with any oil), but the grain is still well and truly there.

They say "clear" and "transparent" but surely there must be some kind of tint to keep out the UV?

Website: https://www.whitworths.com.au/pnt-de...-1-1lt?q=63801

It's got a yellow colour to it once applied - it's not totally water clear. However, it is what I'd put in the "clear" category, unlike a lot of decking oils which have actual colours in them.

With regards to price, you're right that it's not insane compared to other products that are quoted around the forums for cabinetwork, but it is probably a little more expensive than the usual decking oils, unless you're talking about Cetol.

Bear in mind that it is a maintenance type product - it's meant to be a year or two between applications, but given that it's a blast it with the gurney (maybe a splash of oxalic wash too) and slap another coat on sort of job, I don't see that being a major hassle (for a clear product). I've got a cubby house covered in in now, but we're only a single summer in - although it does handle frequent washing from the irrigation system just fine (water is beading off still). I also have a timber slat/cast iron ends/legs bench that has the D1 + D2 combination and it still looks great after 2 years on my front porch - with the caveat that that doesn't get masses of direct sun.

Of course, the best thing for outdoor wood is anything with loads of TiO2 in it, but that only works if you like it in any colour so long as it's white.

Oh man, I already have the Blackbutt I basically got it for free and that’s why I’m using it. It is just for screening though and the only side I’m really worried about is the inside and the outside is right on the fence line.

Originally Posted by nzhorsey

Oh man, I already have the Blackbutt I basically got it for free and that’s why I’m using it. It is just for screening though and the only side I’m really worried about is the inside and the outside is right on the fence line.

Ok, well you could paint the outside with something like white Solarguard 2 coats (you won't see it and that will be max protection). Make sure that there is at least a 5mm gap between the fence and the screen - less than that will trap water and cause the fence and/or screen to rot/rust in no time flat. (even if the fence is treated pine). If the fence is colourbond I would still keep the screen off it by 5mm because the screen will rot.

If you were planning on securing the screen to the fence you still can but just space it off the fence with something that can't rot like a nylon or stainless steel 5+mm thick washer, or if desperate galvanised steel washers. To get the thickness you could use nuts quite successfully.

Depends on how much UV and rain the inside gets as to how well it will go.

1297841B-8CBA-48AF-AB49-6AB058D8309B.jpg5B373872-7250-430F-A539-831EA7C5341E.jpg5B373872-7250-430F-A539-831EA7C5341E.jpg58C4EBFC-AA74-4FAD-A415-729614B36760.jpgHere is it nearly finished now guys. Very happy. So, anyone got any recommendations for an External Oil that will make the natural grains and colours really pop out?

Does it get direct sunlight? Is it exposed to rain? It looks pretty sheltered. It looks pretty good too!

Hi mate, it actually won’t be exposed to rain nor sunlight as I’m putting corrugated iron on the other side. And since it’s all under the car Oort it won’t really see that much sun either. Maybe a little at the back in the summer but otherwise won’t see much sun at all.

Ok, well in that case you probably don't really need an outdoor finish. It's sunlight and rain that does the most damage. There is still significant UV in reflected sunlight which will eventually takes its toll - just as it would on furniture near a window.

So that opens up quite a few finishes that can be used. Polyurethanes (water or oil based) can look a little bit plastic, but are pretty durable.
Oil finishes are really easily repairable - spot repairs are easy.

If you are still concerned about UV damage then you could consider the product that theimage linked to - maybe you can get a sample?

Another product also comes to mind - Penetrol Wood Oil. I got mine at the local Mitre 10 up here, and as far as I know Bunnings don't carry Flood Products (manufacturer) but I'm not certain about that. You may find it in a Paint Shop.

The Flood Company Australia » Wood Care Products » penetrol_wood_oil

I have only used it once (recently) as a test, and in that case I decided to hard burnish it in (sand it in from 500 grit to 4000 grit which is a reasonable gloss level). That is way overkill for you application. It can just be brushed on (follow the destructions). With Oil finishes I like to cloth them down after a short while because it gives a nice even coat.

What about making up your own WOP from satin polyurethane, turps and tung oil at 40/30/30 ratio. You can brush it on.
The timber wall looks good.
Cheers crowie

Originally Posted by crowie

What about making up your own WOP from satin polyurethane, turps and tung oil at 40/30/30 ratio. You can brush it on.
The timber wall looks good.

That's a good idea Peter. Do you know where we can get Tung Oil in our area? Nothing up here, even with Bunnings now open, and I really want to get my hands on some to 'speriment with.

If TO can't be sourced then Pale Boiled Linseed Oil can be used with the same/similar mix. I've used it in 50/25/25 ratio with Satin Wattyl Estapol PolyU on Blackbutt, and it gives quite a nice very faint warm tint to the timber. You could even do it with with "external" PolyU.

Brush it on liberally and then wipe it down with a soft cloth after about 10 minutes.

Diggers brand Pale BLO is available from either Mitre 10 or Bunnings.

Peter down at Razorback a few months ago was enquiring about bulk tung oil and from memory he was directed to a large farm produce store.

Here's Peter thread on Tung Oil suppliers...

Tung oil