Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 20 of 20
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    187

    Default

    You can pick up dry air blanket from barnes. It is an aerosol purging gas. Used it for years on resins and polyurethane with success.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    187

    Default

    http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/index....oducts_id=5982

    Most molding/casting places sell it.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    37
    Posts
    2,711

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lyle View Post
    Thanks groenai.
    Are theyreuaeable. I couldn't see on the site.
    Yep, they can be used again.

    http://www.stoplossbags.com/about.html

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Default

    there have been all sorts of ideas like this going round for years ....... I've come to the conclusion that mostly they are a waste of time and money. ........ or a money make for those selling them.

    For a lot of finish products the air in the top of the can is the least of your worries.

    #1 is the effectivness of the seal ..... so often once you have opened a can and been using it ..... putting the lid back on makes a poor seal. ..... paint tins are a package not a storage container.

    #2 is product ages regardless, even in full tins a large proportion of finish product has a finite shelf life ..... the product will react with its self or otherwise degrade

    #3 tins rust and the bottms fall out.

    #4 some products simply opening the tin signs the death warrant .... as soon at the top is off the product starts rapidly absorbing air and water ....... If you happen to be dipping the brush directly into the tin ..... you are contaminating the product with every dip.

    #5 certain finish products are not reactive and it does not matter what is in the vacant space in the top of the tin ..... add more of the correct thinner and the product is good as it ever was.


    so ..... there is a very small proportion where this whole problem is the problem at all ...... in that case the best choice is to get fresh clean paint tins .... and pour the contents of the part used container into a fresh clean tin that has an unmolested virgin seal.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    13,315

    Default

    From the Lee Valley web site in regards to their bags,

    Effective with oil-, water- and alcohol-based finishes (not for use with finishes containing methyl ethyl ketone, lacquer thinner or acetone).

    http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...190,44133&ap=1

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. removing a lanolin finish
    By Tailsnz in forum RESTORATION
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 20th July 2013, 09:23 PM
  2. Removing Old finish
    By Spreyton22 in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 11th August 2006, 03:53 PM
  3. Removing a dried out finish
    By Green in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 15th April 2005, 12:22 PM
  4. Removing Wax finish
    By Wayne Davy in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 18th June 2003, 11:37 AM
  5. Removing finish from an old Radiogram
    By Glenn M in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 20th March 2002, 09:25 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •