Thread: Sanding estapol - what grit, and why?

Hi doc, Nasty stuff that estapol, (wear a mask in plenty of O2) not that wattyl is a bad product, we've used the commercial cellulose lacquer and sealer for 30 years, it's just designed for the quick and easy/ handyman market. Similar to 2 pac spray paint and both r really toxic.
Q's
1. what is the application? what type of timber?
2. are you doing this in a dust free environment?
3. do you have access to heat lamps?
4. are you brushing or spraying (or throwing) it on?

cheers

Hi DoctorPaul

Do not use a belt sander to sand the coat of estapol!! You'll only end up taking off that coat and most likely the stain as well. The belt sander is way too powerful for this particular job.

Without any further details, I'd suggest you lightly cut back the estapol with 320 or 400 grit by hand.

As Engrain said, do wear your Personal Protection Equipment (PPE) while doing so. Gloves, a good dust mask, etc.

Cheers
Wendy

What about a really fine grit, and a light belt sand?

What about just another coat?

Not sure what timber it is, one is a hardwood, the other a softwood

Also, is there anything i need to do after the second coat to get it smooth?

I do a light rub with steel wool between coats.
If the second coat is the final coat, it won't need anything done to it.

Ditto what the others said about the belt sander. You'll wreck it if you do that.
Just the fine grit sand paper or the steel wool is all that is needed.

About your question regarding not sanding but just doing another coat.
After the first coat is dry you'll notice that if you run your hand over it, it will feel a little rough. The light sand with fine grit or steel wool is to smooth it off.
Do a section with steel wool (or sandpaper) and compare the feel of the sanded section with the non sanded section and you see the difference.
The second coat will come up smooth. Don't sand after the final coat, you'll just scratch it.
Hope this is clear and not confusing.

BTW, that's OOO or preferably OOOO grade steel wool. (Not household scouring pads! )

Originally Posted by doctorpaul

What about a really fine grit, and a light belt sand?

No. No, no, no ,no, no. No. Put down that belt sander. Put it down. On the floor...now step away.....

You dont really want to remove any estapol - you just want to take the high points of the estapol coat down to the level of the low points. No more. You certainly don't want to touch the timber underneath.

Get some 320 grit and a hand sanding block and spend a pleasant 20 minutes hand sanding the finish. It'll probably take less time than getting the belt sander out, putting in a new belt, getting the extension cord, connecting everything, oh-so-oh-so carefully sanding, vacuuming up the dust and putting it away.

And it's certainly faster than starting from the beginning again if you slip....

Interesting that you have stained solid timber (if that is what you have). Normally timber is stained for one of 3 reasons – to make it look like an expensive timber, to match some existing furniture or to make furniture pieces of the same timber but which have differing tones, look identical. Otherwise try to pick timber of colour you want – if this is possible.
Bear in mind that sanding stained timber could easily wear through to the timber beneath, especially if you sand an outside corner.
I have always advocated using a worn out piece of abrasive paper (less chance of leaving scratch marks) no rougher than 180grit but not too fine say 300grit max, as it will clog more easily. If you have no worn stuff, fold & rub the new against itself for a similar softening effect – and keep flicking it to remove lacquer dust. Don’t forget mask – (PPE).
The first coat of virtually any form of varnish/lacquer lifts the grain that was originally sanded flat so sanding the first coat achieves two things – smoothing off the grain “stubble” and taking off the gloss finish, which make a better key for the second coat to adhere to.
A hint for the second coat – it will get semi-dry more quickly than the first coat even whilst you are applying it, so work as quick as you can yet remain with quality brush work and avoid “touching up’ as it might show when dry.
The result from the second coat should be appreciably better surface shine and smoother and you could stop there but if there are more brush marks or runs – carefully rub them back and apply a third coat – especially on surfaces that will be seen and get the wear!
Hope it went well.
Tony

Okay, ive put the belt sander down

But, ive just bought some 400 grit for my random orbital sander.

Am i allowed to use this dad? Or do i have to put it away with the belt sander

Maaaaate, put the ROS down on the floor to keep the belt sander company.

Just a very light sanding by hand is needed. hardly even rubbing, just run it over the surface to knock off the rough bits. Easy as.

What the others have all said about a light hand sand and make sure that you wipe off the dust before re-coating.

A few years ago before I graduated to other finishes I made a 4 piece wall unit finished with Estapol and you can get a good finish if you follow the advice given above.

1200 wet and dry, it will come up really well and the top coat will be like glass.

Originally Posted by doctorpaul

Okay, ive put the belt sander down

But, ive just bought some 400 grit for my random orbital sander.

Am i allowed to use this dad? Or do i have to put it away with the belt sander

Grrr What is it about quacks these days? (One of reasons you walk into a surgery with an ear ache and walk out minus a kidney.)
Now would you please answer the bleedin' question and explain what
"IT" is ? e.g. if the "stick" is a bit of mdf with a twig thru it then we're all sniffin' the wrong bone (surgically sucked in) however if the materials are birds eye blackwood with satin wood inlay then at least we know the stringed beans are going to a good cause?

Cheers

As the others have said don't use a belt sander... you will get a toe and heel effect. Using a gloss will show every blemish no matter how minute.

With the risk of get me head bitten off I'd be using 180 or 220 grit the white aluminium oxide, either by hand or a small quality Palm Sander and cut back so the whole surface has been dulled. To remove all the blemishes and to get a silky smooth finish you will have to repeat the process several times. And let it well and truly dry between each recoat. Also spraying is the only way to go.