Thread: sanding sealer

good rant but how about a bit of useful information.

What is the sanding sealer?
What other materials did you buy that cost $150 that you needed above the $20 for the sealer?
What did you actually do? ( what were you sealing and how did you go about it?)
What do you mean (10 minutes to stuff a project) did you try to sand it after 10 min?

feast watson is the brand of sanding sealer tassy black wood was the materials
and i left it over night before sanding all it has done is clog sand paper and leave clumps all over my table top
painted on left to dry then tried to sand off
sorry bout the rant but i was just fed up

the sanding sealer you have appears to be an oil based one (it thins with turps0 rather than a lacquer based one then it probably is not completely dry. The tin should tell you the drying time but if it has been cold or you have put on a thick heavy coat or too many too soon it will take far longer to dry before you can sand.

What was your planned finish for this table? the sanding sealer needs to be compatable with the finish you are going to use as a finish. Even if you sand this sealer and it works you will still need to apply a clear over it which will not react with it.

am finishing with min wax wipe on poly was told it is compatible
how much does it need to be sanded before going on to the top clear coat?

Did a similar thing a while back. If its the same F&W I used its a Filler and Sealer. Has suspended particles of some type (looks grayish in the can). Dries THICK and needs to set hard before a loooong time spent with the sander.

Switched to the Ubeaut sanding sealer and never looked back.

It's the filler thats clogging the paper. Sorry mate, don't know a way out other than heaps of paper.

Cheers,

If you let it dry more it should be able to be sanded to a smooth finish.

If you have dragged it up with the sanding and it looks to be past that point then it would be quicker to remove it. As its so soft still, turps may still soften it. Just put some on a rag or pour a bit on a small area and let it soak for a few minutes. If you then use a scraper you should be able to remove the soft sealer.

If its too dry for that then a lacquer thinner will stir it up (if you have some) again just soak it the thinner will attack it and make it soggy and you can scrape it off. and then sand the wood to get you back to square one.

You could then take Glenn's advice and switch to Ubeaut sealer.

You could also use a paint stripper but you will need to make sure that you wash, clean and sand the timber well so that all the stripper is gone.

Solvent will evaporate and leave you will only timber and traces of the old FW sealer to sand away.

Use to use wattyl sanding sealer and had zero problems , but when the last tin ran out switched th U-Beaut ( thought I'de give it a try as I use the forum ) and once again zero problems though in faireness it is easier to apply though a bit dearer , but as It gives me as good a result and I get much enjoyment from the forum and that costs me bugger all why not use the u-beaut product

Originally Posted by mattym83

feast watson is the brand of sanding sealer

FW make a couple of different sealers,
I have used their "proof seal" forever and reckon it's the best on the market,
it's thin, spirit based, has no fillers, dries in 20 mins, soaks in quickly and raises the wood fibers flattened in the sanding process which are then easily removed with a fine abrasive.
FW "floor seal" on the other hand is very tough, and abrasive resistant

Stay cool Matt,

Feast Watson has a very different sanding sealer from say Ubeaut sanding sealer. It does take a bit of "getting used to". It does not dry instantly like ubeaut does, it is a lot thicker but it gives more protection to the wood. To me it is as good as the first coat of finish. I always use it for a hard wearing surface.

The trick is not to flood it on the wood. Apply only a thin coat and it will dry over night.

Instead of getting it off, you should just leave it until it is fully dry and it will. Trust me.

Cheers

If you are going to use wipe on poly, wouldn't the first coat of that act in a similar manner to sanding sealer? (I know it won't do the same as a filler) but it usually works OK form me...just have to remember the first coat takes longer to go hard than the subsequent coats with wipe on poly.

The other thing is I often use a stain (on radiata pine) and sand the oil based stain into the surface with 400/320 wet/dry and that takes care of raising the grain. Always comes off super smooth and minor grain is filled by the sanding slurry. Messy work but it works form me as an amateur! If I use a gel stain, then I wet the surface down with water to raise the grain and sand again before staining.

Cheers,
Chipman

Can we have some pic's of this project?

Where's it up to now?

sanding sealer is a name with many meanings. Some (like FW) not only seal for sanding, they also fill the grain. UBeaut is thinned shellac. It doesn't fill the grain, it raises it like water and makes it easier to sand off.

well project is coming along well now will post more pics in the pis forum soon.
have sanded all sealer off and worked out that it just needs a very light sand to smooth it so now i have worked that out it is all good
i thought you had to sand back to the timber again.i guess this can be called a learning curve
strange how it leaves the wood almost white looking but when the poly goes on it its completely clear,
have done a coat of wipe on poly on the base of the coffee table and looks great.
A big thank you to all the people who recommended minwax wipe on poly that stuff is great and is almost too simple to use.almost feels like there is more too it.

In my anger and haste in sanding back the top to the wood i have a couple of little hollows in the wood which were partially sanded out. now waiting for the second coat of sanding sealer to dry and hopefully that should fill all of the hollows
i must say i am more then happy with the way the base has turned out just have to get the top up to the same standards thanks for all your help