Thread: Spray equipment ?

Geez, don't talk yaself up too much! we might start to believe you are that good


No gun is good in the hands of someone that has bad technique, fullstop....

Someone with good technique and experience can pick up any gun and make a good finish.

Originally Posted by Shane Watson

Geez, don't talk yaself up too much! we might start to believe you are that good


No gun is good in the hands of someone that has bad technique, fullstop....

Someone with good technique and experience can pick up any gun and make a good finish.

That applies to most woodie tools & machines

MajorPanic, Shane, Echidna, Violincrafter, anybody..... Feedback appreciated...

I rate a good spray finish as one the quickest and "best" available. After seeing the quality of finish achieved by local woodworkers I invested big $$$$'s in setting up a spray booth & top of the line Iwata 200 gun with pressure pot with in-line regulator, filter, water catch, etc. So you'd think after all this I'd be doing great spray jobs. Sometimes it works. Sometimes it don't.

After fiddling with all the gun settings and air pressure, I still often get an orange peel effect. And the gun seems to spray "droplets" rather than a nice fine mist. I've upped the air and reduced the fluid, but I still get fine droplets. If I "drown" the surface (lacquer) it eventually flows together and I can get a reasonable finish. But I'm sure this isn't right.

I'm about to head into town with a couple of cartons of beer, go to the local car repair spray painter and beg for a couple of hours of hands-on training.

Richard

Originally Posted by Richardwoodhead

MajorPanic, Shane, Echidna, Violincrafter, anybody..... Feedback appreciated...

I rate a good spray finish as one the quickest and "best" available. After seeing the quality of finish achieved by local woodworkers I invested big $$$$'s in setting up a spray booth & top of the line Iwata 200 gun with pressure pot with in-line regulator, filter, water catch, etc. So you'd think after all this I'd be doing great spray jobs. Sometimes it works. Sometimes it don't.

After fiddling with all the gun settings and air pressure, I still often get an orange peel effect. And the gun seems to spray "droplets" rather than a nice fine mist. I've upped the air and reduced the fluid, but I still get fine droplets. If I "drown" the surface (lacquer) it eventually flows together and I can get a reasonable finish. But I'm sure this isn't right.

I'm about to head into town with a couple of cartons of beer, go to the local car repair spray painter and beg for a couple of hours of hands-on training.

Richard

Hey Richard,

Forget the local car repairer, find yourself a french polisher or a furniture restorer. If he dosen't spray finish he WILL know somebody who does.

Ive got some scanned images of pages from a 103 page book entitled the complete refinisher third edition Dulux Australia.

It outlines step by step possible cures and remedies for most common problems associated with spray painting. Its good and handy for any spray painter.

If orange peel is a problem then here is the associated pages. Splattering from the gun indicates a damaged needle or packing piece or some times incorrect easing of by the operator at the gun. This is only true if its on the trigger release not consistently. You should shoot past the panel before opening or releasing the trigger and then continue with overlapping the next stroke of paint. This is sometimes due to a sudden shutoff at the needle when vacuum and pressure is suddenly halted and the nozzle mist is reverted back to large droplets that have no where to go but condense into immediate splatter. Sort of like turning of the air ABRUPTLY and the paint becomes liquid splatter (unatomised state of momentary starvation, zero pressure zero vacuum result large unassisted zero atomized paint!!!!).









If it splatters throughout the job then you have a partially clogged nozzle or damaged or bent needle or even corroded microscopically mating surfaces between needle and air horn mismatch. There is also the simplest explanation that dirt or incorrect viscosity is the problem.

If the gun is started well before the job then splatter would be not a problem on the work but a good clean gun wont do this!!!(and or correct technique) Nor should the job continue until rectifying the fault.

Release and start the trigger gradually and vacuum and air pressure will syphon the paint SMMMMMOOOOOOTHLY without sharp vacuum drop or abruptly starving the paint on final shutdown and unatomized paint as a splatter of poor technique.

Heres the pics of some usefull info from the Complete refinisher












cheers

Hi Violincrafter
Do you remember where you got the book from? It looks very good. Might be a hnady reference to keep.
Ash

Ashley I got that from Dulux Australia and it dates back to Feb 1979!! I have given them a call recently to see if they have a new update version but the tech guy said they dont print it anymore. However dulux has changed there name I think which a auto paint shop can advise on.

I have a number for victoria 132424 which was given to me. You could try but as I said they dont print it any more.

However there is some good news however!

Heres the index a scanned image



Have a look at it and I could try and post some of it for reference only!

I cant do all of it because the FILE size!

And the time to scan it! lol

But some of it I can do!

cheers

Oh before I forget this ones for Mr Major

violincrafter, thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.

Major, I managed to line up the finisher / polisher from one of the local furniture galleries to come around and provide some hands-on lessons when I'm ready for my next spray job. Hopefully this will help. Just by talking on the phone, it sounds like my air setting at the gun was too low..

Richard

Pages 92 & 93 would be great if possible. Thanks in advance
Ash

Im working on a PDF file and so far 6 pages LOL. The file is 541 kbs!!!!
I dont know of how I could post it considering that file size is to big for most and not sure how to post it at photobucket. Its max is 250 kb's.

Wow what a lot of fiddling to get pages scanned! lol :confused: :confused:

Dead set, you bloks are hopeless!!!

What does Dulux have to do with spraying Lacquer??

Paint & lacquer are totally different in spraying techniques!

You have an Professional you can ask any time you need an answer.

Shane Watson is a qualified professional in the finishing field!! He is only too happy to help.

If ya want a troubleshooting guide HERE is one I did up from a book called "Spray Finishing" by Andy Charron - Taunton Press.

Thanks Mr Major,
Good PDF reference! Saves some time on scanning the same stuff!

Is that from your WEB SITE?

Originally Posted by MajorPanic

Dead set, you bloks are hopeless!!!

What does Dulux have to do with spraying Lacquer??

Paint & lacquer are totally different in spraying techniques!

There are little differences not too much IMHO, but get those little differences wrong and it'll kill the finish.(automotive and wood)
Its all paint.
Also depends on what you define which is paint and which is lacquer, cars used to be sprayed with lacquer in the old days or in the backyard... its only since the lazy mans advent of 2pac that things have changed.
If your talking enamel yeah its way different and a dam sight harder to get a nice finish although to spray poly nice its treated the same, Ive always thought that if you can master enamel can do any spray finish.
Automotive acyrlic and what I know of lac have the same techinque to spray... except one has solids in it.

Originally Posted by Violindude

This is sometimes due to a sudden shutoff at the needle when vacuum and pressure is suddenly halted and the nozzle mist is reverted back to large droplets that have no where to go but condense into immediate splatter

Sorry if Im stating the obivous but,
That can be avoided very easily, its called a 2 stage trigger which every gun I've ever handled has. Air flow should not stop from start to finish of the whole spray job, if it does your letting the trigger go to far shut or you've over adjusted/jammed the needle open.

I also noticed a comment about a good spray painter can get a good finish with any gun... betcha I got a gun that no-one can get a nice finish with!

Harry your absolutely right! There are some spray guns that are really good for only fence painting! But I think some other guns have come a long way and at the end of the day are clones of others.

As with the 2 stage its correct but I tried to figure out how a gun could splatter? Mine dont but if it did , then i would try some theory on that problem. As i mentioned all good spray techniques is to be sort of gentle and start the trigger,,,,before the job and release it slowly after passing the target panel. 40 -45 psi on a suction gun is a fairly steady stream of paint dissipation and if the trigger is released abruptly it will force the needle to push a small quantity of paint via the nozzle out by centrifical pressure and the air horn has collapsed the vacuum of which its delivered.

My guns dont do that, but maybe a gun with 2.0 mm for lac may be more pronounced.

Oh well I guess my guns are good because so far TOUCH WOOD they work fine without a problem but when the needle may wear out and the jet then thats a different story.