Thread: Three Tables - help required

For the stains, try Deck Cleaner. The active ingredient is oxalic acid.
Certainly looks like teak. If it smells like nutmeg when you cut or sand it then its teak.
Cheers
Arron

Some of those stains look like they might sand out Kevin, maybe starting at 120.

For a matte finish, I think a lacquer might look crummy. As a suggestion, you could sand up to only about 220, which will still be matte but would feel nice with your Festool sander's finish, and then finish it with a few coats of Rustins Danish Oil (from Carrol's). I've never done the next step, but they say that a rub with steel wool will take off any gloss. That being the case you might even want to sand up to 320/500.

Note that Rustin's DO can't be hard burnished because it is too thick and starts to set much too quickly for sanding in (in my experience, anyway). All I got was a PITA thick slurry that left gross skidmarks that had to be rubbed off, and start again. Organoil DO is fine for hard burnishing (along with a number of others no doubt) but I find that Rustin's gives a superior finish just wiped on and rubbed off just a few minutes later.

Just my 2c worth.

Originally Posted by Arron

For the stains, try Deck Cleaner. The active ingredient is oxalic acid.

Aaron, do you know anything about oxalic acid (straight up) being a bleach for timber? I have at the back of my mind that I read that once somewhere. I'm looking for something to bleach some Tallow wood with because when it's finished as is it tends to go infant brown.

Try Napisan which is basically what most of the deck cleaners are.

I know of at least one deck oil manufacturer who re-bottle Napisan to sell as their deck cleaner.

Hi,
I'd just like to say that Danish Oil, no matter what version you use, isn't necessarily going to give you the best finish for the timber you are using. I have found Wattyl Scandinavian Oil hard burnished to give superior grain resolution, when compared to Feast and Watson Danish Oil applied direct to Highly figured Red Gum.
Certain Danish Oils contain agents which thicken the oil to make it an easy oil to apply and add protection.
I don't see any advantage to sanding to 220 or 300 then applying the oil and expecting a great finish. Sure you'll get colour, but not necessarily great grain differentiation. 400 is whrere I would start thinking about what oil to use.
In the end it's up to you, but you might consider whether you can get a more satisfactory finish using products like Organoil HBO, Wattyl Scandinavian Oil, Liberon (or Sceney's) Tung Oil mixed 1:3 with Citrus Terpene or White Spirit or even BLO mixed with White Spirit.
Remember, Sol..."Oils ain't Oils"

Regards,

Rob

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Aaron, do you know anything about oxalic acid (straight up) being a bleach for timber? I have at the back of my mind that I read that once somewhere. I'm looking for something to bleach some Tallow wood with because when it's finished as is it tends to go infant brown.

As a bleach, no, I've never tried to use it as a bleach.

I use Cabots Deck Clean a lot to remove stains from timber. Mostly to remove mildew stains from veneered panels after they have spent a night in my press in damp weather. It works wonderfully well but in this case the objective is to restore the timber back to its natural colour, not to make it lighter.

Sorry
Arron

Originally Posted by Arron

As a bleach, no, I've never tried to use it as a bleach.

I use Cabots Deck Clean a lot to remove stains from timber. Mostly to remove mildew stains from veneered panels after they have spent a night in my press in damp weather. It works wonderfully well but in this case the objective is to restore the timber back to its natural colour, not to make it lighter.

Sorry
Arron

There could be a couple of problems using Deck Clean or Napisan.
Two tables are indoors on carpet so using any liquid could cause problems. The third table is outdoors but has a metal "chrome" frame. Using deck clean here could damage the metal finish so I would consider it too risky to use unless carefully controlled.

Sanding (Unfortunately I do not have a Festool sander) and scrapping might be my only options.

Originally Posted by Handyjack

..... and scrapping might be my only options.

Could be a while, but I will say it is after all just long strokes.

Originally Posted by Handyjack

There could be a couple of problems using Deck Clean or Napisan.
Two tables are indoors on carpet so using any liquid could cause problems. The third table is outdoors but has a metal "chrome" frame. Using deck clean here could damage the metal finish so I would consider it too risky to use unless carefully controlled.

Sanding (Unfortunately I do not have a Festool sander) and scrapping might be my only options.

you should be able to take the tops off the indoor tables and take them outside

This is what I ended up doing with the outdoor setting.
Melbourne had a night of wild weather and the cover was blown off the table and benches allowing them to be cleaned by heavy rain.
I lightly sanded them before applying two coats of clear deck oil.

Originally Posted by Handyjack

This is what I ended up doing with the outdoor setting.
Melbourne had a night of wild weather and the cover was blown off the table and benches allowing them to be cleaned by heavy rain.
I lightly sanded them before applying two coats of clear deck oil.

Did you pray for a helping hand. ?

Originally Posted by Christos

Did you pray for a helping hand. ?

No, but it saved a lot of work.
The property is rented and there are issues with the balcony where the setting sits so using a cleaner could cause problems plus the wait time for the timber to dry.