13th Jun 2009, 02:05 PM #1
Trouble with Parks Superglaze epoxy
Hi all. I am new to this forum and not really a woodworker as such. I am actually a decorative artist that does makeovers on furniture, cabinetry, accessories, etc. Now to my problem - I have a client with a kitchen island that needed a makeover which I did. She also wanted the top finished with a very "deep" finish such as might be seen in a bar/pub. I found a product called Parks Superglaze epoxy. I applied a coat over the entire surface and let it set up. The product looked great except was a little uneven and "wavy" as there were numerous "wormholes" and other distressed areas in the surface and I don't think I applied a thick enough coat to allow it to self-level as it was designed to do. Otherwise it looked great. The instructions said multiple coats were possible so I figured another coat would allow it to level itself out. I scuff sanded and wiped the surface with alchohol as instructed and then applied the second coat as before and it looked perfect when completed. HOWEVER - it has never set up properly. After 3 days it is still soft everywhere except the edges where it thins out. Now I don't know what to do or how to go about getting it off. Any suggestions would be appreciated. - Chris
13th Jun 2009 02:05 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Advertising world
13th Jun 2009, 04:22 PM #2
It's either an incorrect ratio of hardener to epoxy (or poor mixing of the two) or the hardener has gone off/been frozen or otherwise chemically contaminated (stuffed). There's a chance that it hasn't been warm enough to set, if you have it in a really cold location, in which case adding heat may help. Otherwise scrape as much of the gooey layer as you can from the surface - a hot air gun can help with this - and clean up with acetone/paint thinner back to the good layer and try again.
15th Jul 2009, 12:34 PM #3
did you ever get your table cured
hi we are having the same issue- after three full days the super glaze it very sticky!- looking for a fix or hope that it will cure. thanks
12th Oct 2009, 10:04 AM #4
Parks Epoxy dilemma
Hi. We've been working on a table for weeks now. Used about 7 boxes of Parks Epoxy to get the desired thickness, waiting days between coats. We still have areas that have not cured, whereas other previously non cured areas have been covered and at last cured. Not much room left on our table to add many more layers (maybe 1 more). Worried that the next coat may have sticky areas as all the other applications have had. ANY advice would be apreciated at this point.
Way too much time and $ put into this project already, but love it and want to finish . . .
14th Oct 2009, 10:01 AM #5
Cold, cold, cold
Hi all, In a previous life I was a painter and decorator. On colder days it takes longer to dry. Note: the more coats on cover you apply, the longer it is going to dry. Warmer days will help the process set. Place the project in a warm environment and it will set. Do not put the project in the full sun, unless in is a very warm not a hot day. The sun will warp the timber and you start the project over.
With a kitchen island bench, you can heat the area and normally the finish will set. Be careful not to thin the finish too much. If you have followed the instructions then it will set. Humidity also plays havoc with finishes as when humid the air has way to much water in it.
Lets all ask for warmer weather.
MikeSuccess is getting what you want.
Happiness is wanting what you get. Dale Carnegie
14th Oct 2009, 09:07 PM #6
See my post above. The number one reason for any epoxy finish not curing is incorrect ratio of hardener in the mix, followed by not mixing really well, and after that, some sort of contamination in the mix that is retarding the set.
As long as the temperature has been around 20 degrees C, it should set. If it's curing in patches, that mostly rules out the temperature as a problem. A hair dryer can be used to warm it up to rule this out.
If it's having the same problem on layer after layer, that kinda rules out surface contamination, too. I'd look at the ratio of harder to resin, as is not really a 'slop it together, she'll be right' mixing situation, especially with epoxies with ratios like 5:1.
Basically, you have to get the right quantity of epichlorohydrin and bisphenol A to mix with your 2,4,6-tri(dimethylaminomethyl)phenol, and it's gotta be mixed at the molecular level. That bears repeating - we are trying to mix at the molecular level, and not at some kind of kitchen 'gently fold beaten egg white in so as not to force air out of the mix' level. Every molecule of epoxy has to meet a molecule of hardener for the awful gooey mass to set.
So hardener - even in the right ratio - is not going to magically make a whole mix set if just given a few quick swirls with a toothpick and poured on. And adding more hardener to stuff that hasn't set wont work either, as...you cant get it to mix in!
If it doesn't set, there's no alternative other than scraping it all off and starting again...perhaps using a different brand, but certainly being much more exacting about mixing and stirring.
By apricotripper in forum MUSICAL INSTRUMENTSReplies: 19Last Post: 23rd Jun 2008, 09:26 AM
By Rossluck in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORKReplies: 3Last Post: 28th Nov 2006, 09:48 PM
By fred.n in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORKReplies: 2Last Post: 19th May 2006, 10:44 AM
By reeves in forum TIMBERReplies: 19Last Post: 6th Feb 2006, 11:52 AM
By oges in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORKReplies: 4Last Post: 7th Dec 2004, 09:03 PM