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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Diamond Creek, VIC
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    Default Varnish Removal - How do you do it?

    So I bought a solid pine desk. I'm a writer and this is to be where I will pen my masterpiece.

    It is NOT antique and so requires no special consideration. But I do want to restain it to better suit my tastes. It currently has a clear varnish - of what, I couldn't say.

    I am having issues with the sanding. Currently using an orbital sander with 80 sandpaper and running it over the surface of the desk in smooth back and forward motion appears to be doing nothing. I started really putting some muscle into it and this worked but I have since read you should never "bear down" when sanding. But if I don't, nothing happens? Only by applying pressure am I able to strip back to the wood.

    My question is this: do I just have to sand back and forth without pressure over and over again until I get somewhere? Could this take YEARS? Or should I consider using a stripper of some kind? And then sand? And how even does it need to be? I'm getting most of the varnish off using pressure but there are still streaks where it is almost impossible to remove.

    I would welcome any help. I am a complete novice (obviously) and while the desk isn't worth anything in monetary terms, I would like for it to be a nice piece when finished. I fear I'm doing untold damage through my ignorance.

    I plan to re-varnish the piece in a dark oriental colour where the grain of the wood will NOT be visible.

    Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    66
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    Default

    I suspect that it is not varnish, I suspect that it may be polyurethane.

    Polyurethane has lots of good points but removing it is not one of them.

    You may have to get somebody to have a look at it.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Diamond Creek, VIC
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    Default

    Oh whoops! Thanks Cliff. Who would 'someone' be?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sleepless View Post
    Oh whoops! Thanks Cliff. Who would 'someone' be?
    I'm available this weekend, you just need to provide flights, accommodation and a hire car (4WD for preference)

    If you continue down the ROS method you might want to start off at 40 grit till all the varnish has gone, then do 80, 120, 180, and 240 grits until you get the desired finish.

    Alternatively, use a hook type scraper to "carve" the varnish off. I find it much faster and it'll teach you another hand skill.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Diamond Creek, VIC
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    Default

    Oh great, thanks Chief! I was advised not to get the 40 which I had selected originally but I reckon I need it.

    And I would take you up on the offer but I spent my last dime on this damn desk! I thought this was going to be easy......

    No-one has recommended liquid sandpaper....not a good idea? Too messy?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sleepless View Post
    ....No-one has recommended liquid sandpaper....not a good idea? Too messy?
    The fumes are a killer, particularly if you are trying to work inside during winter.

    I also don't know how good it would be on PU.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Toowoomba Q 4350
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    9,217

    Default

    Nothing beats some good quality non-clogging sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease. You may also find a scraper to be helpful for those hard to reach corners and such.

    Failing that, a belt sander is worth it's weight in gold and you DO NOT press down with one of those nor do you need to

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
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    3,260

    Default

    Mmmmm - belt sander, 40 grit!

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Planet Earth
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    477

    Default

    A card scraper will cost you about the same amount as a few sheets of decent sand paper but save you hours.

    Do a search on "card scraper", there are plenty of online videos. It is just a rectangle of metal, it is all in how you sharpen it.

    A "scarsden scraper" from a paint shop or hardware shop will be a bit more money but once you clean the varnish out of a corner in a few seconds you will think it is worth the money. Paint shop will also have a "tungsten scraper" which is the same concept but different form. Both have replaceable blades.

    If you haven't used a belt sander before then practice on scrap, it sounds stupid, but you can make a big mess in seconds that will scar the desk.

    Quality sand paper is always encouraged.

    Whatever method you find works, it will provide you with plenty of time to think of you writings whilst you scrape, sand, stain, varnish, sand, wax and buff.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Albury Well Just Outside
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    13,315

    Default

    I think you will find that using a card scraper would be a good way in starting to remove the finish. More control in the amount you take off.

    Using a belt sander can be very quick to remove finish also easy to remove too much at one place. As suggested try it on some scrap.

    One thing for sure is that is will take some time to remove finish from a piece of furniture. Do a before and after pictures to post.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Diamond Creek, VIC
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    Default

    Okay, off to the hardware to buy a card scraper of some description. And also some 40 grit just in case.

    I've taken on this task in the dead of winter and I'm doing it outside. I thought it was going to take me an afternoon. I am in a special kind of hell.

    But THANK YOU to everyone for replying. I am crossing fingers the card scraper will make lighter work of this mammoth task!

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