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  1. #1
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    Default an AMAZING video - making of a Greenfield guitar

    The skill, precission and serious care in making one of his guitars is incredible.

    Its an hour to watch, but worth every second for every woodworker.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAeXskZHC2o

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  3. #2
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    I've bookmarked it to watch later
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  4. #3
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    Default

    That was a great one!

  5. #4
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    That bloke is nearly as clever as me,........................plus he has nearly as much machinery as I have,..........

  6. #5
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    As a box maker I've learned a LOT from guitar makers.

    Edge banding, repairs, inlay, board selection, grain, tonality, placement and jig preparation - all these skills are useful in box making.

    The MOST important thing I've learned, by far, is polyurethane and epoxy finishing (also CA crack repair, spot repair, scraping and polishing). I've begun using it on my boxes and the clients WOW factor and eye popping give-it-to-me-now-grabbiness has gone through the roof. I've re-done some of my older boxes that I considered ordinary and they have been turned into great things.

    I'll never finish another box without these methods now.

    Thanks guitar dudes!

  7. #6
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    That was fantastic only skimmed through it.
    But some great ideas.

    Cheers Matt


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #7
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    That was a really good watch and the builder didn't bad mouth mass produced stuff once, I like that.

    I do have a question though, does epoxy have no swelling effect on timber? I had never really thought about it but I assumed anything liquid would do a similar thing, seems I was wrong.

  9. #8
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    Hi Woodpixel,

    Read your comment "The MOST important thing I've learned, by far, is polyurethane and epoxy finishing". Would you be willing to elaborate? If its commercially sensitive I'll understand, of course.

    Thanks,

    Brian

  10. #9
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    Thanks Woodpixel for posting this,
    I watched it last night, and it is indeed amazing. How lucky is the bloke that is his apprentice!
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by homey View Post
    Read your comment "The MOST important thing I've learned, by far, is polyurethane and epoxy finishing". Would you be willing to elaborate? If its commercially sensitive I'll understand, of course.
    Its not at all a sensitive Q Brian. When making boxes, for the first 6-ish years I've been going down the paths of better/fancier timbers, more exotic finishes, agonising over movement, clever methods of joining to avoid glue squeeze out, internal linings, etc.

    One of the major agonies I experienced Every Single Time was the finish. I have 2 shelves stacked with every imaginable finish.

    Kunos Livos is my major favourite, because its dead easy and the result is like silk.

    But for regular boxes, which I like to see actually used and not a mantelpiece accessory, getting a good finish that was like French Polish, but without the serious time investment was a problem. I did a few FP's, but it simply takes too long. I make my money out of woodworking, so if it cant be done well and quite quickly, I go hungry!

    Some while back I was watching a video of a professional guitar maker and he made up a mixture of regular boring old epoxy. Spread it very thinly, sanded it, and did this three times. After a fine sanding it was buffed. Blew me away. He had achieved an iron hard lustrous finish that gave the instrument rich tonality and kept the wood looking fabulous - no plastic look either.

    I started doing this technique with CA glue on pens too. Two thin coats to lock in and seal the fibres, then 4 or 5 of medium CA to add some body. Sand it back with micromesh until the spots and dulls are removed, then Meguires Ultra Shine and POW - I can pump out about 8 to 10 pens an hour. This technique was shown to me both by an ex-board member and also Timberbits.

    CA glue has been a favourite of mine now for about 2 years and I use it all over the place. I fix dings, rips and loose bits of wood on everything - pine, MDF and fancy stuff during box making.

    The other technique for repair was shown in a video by Dan Erlewine (sp?) on StuMac, which is a guitar knowledge utopia. He showed chip fixes, dings and full on repairs using CA and his little airbrush kits. Repairs that boggled the mind and were utterly invisible.

    For boxes, I had a discussion with the owner of LillyGrace Boxes (Neville OFarrell) Lilly Grace Boxes and how he achieves the incredible finishes he does. Its all rubbed-out sprayed Poly. His work is worthy of study. He is very open too (at least with me!)

    Lastly, there was the demo in this video which showed in considerable detail (enough for me) to show that sprayed Nitro produces a finish that is fantastic. If its good enough for a dude who charges $35k for a concert level guitar, its good enough for my crappy boxes

    I've a bit of work to bang out today (its lunch time now) and once I've done that Ill come back and include a bunch of links to videos and whatnot.

    Its no secret, but once you've been shown, you'll wonder why you weren't doing it earlier!

  12. #11
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    Hi WoodPixel,

    I'd be keen to look at these links also. I am pretty happy with my finish, but always keen to check out more.

    Paul

  13. #12
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    Hi woodpixel,

    Wow! Thanks so much for going into all that detail - I really appreciate the time you've taken to give the background. I've been using U-Beaut Hard Shellac and Tru-Oil, both of which I like, but I'd really like to try the epoxy route. I use CA a bit for fixes, but haven't tried it for finishing. Something else to get stuck into!

    Recently I've been using Behlen's pre-cat lacquer with some success. Certainly it dries almost instantly so finishing time is slashed and the ens result looks very "close to the wood".

    i'm off now to view the video. Thanks again for the comprehensive reply and tips!

    Brian

  14. #13
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    Everyone is welcome. Knowledge is power! Share it.

    Here is the epoxy video set:

    Part 1 -
    Part 2 -
    Part 3 -

    The videos producer has gobs of excellent comments below the vid.

    Google recommends a few as you go along, which cant harm to watch, but the result is the same.

    This is a worthy view on pore filling to perfection:



    This is the CA chip repair:



    In my opinion, the whole StuMac Video series is an absolute gold mine for woodworkers (even if it is about guitars only). Dans techniques are 100% translatable to anything we'd ever do. This is his chanel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdr...x54ByuY5U2ohTQ and this is the site where you can read his weekly(?) secrets: Trade Secrets! | stewmac.com



    Thats it for me, Im off to make 9 more dolls houses! No rest for the wicked!

    Evan

  15. #14
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    I was pore filling my instruments with epoxy prior to french polishing but have gone back to a more traditional pore filling method using a shellac spit coat followed by pumice pore filling and if necessary pumice added to the pad during intial bodying sessions. My main reasons are the health issues associated with using epoxy resins. It's a messy process and it's difficult to achieve a complete fill without having to do multiple epoxy sessions. Like any method it works for some but not for everyone.
    Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ubernoob View Post
    That was a really good watch and the builder didn't bad mouth mass produced stuff once, I like that.

    I do have a question though, does epoxy have no swelling effect on timber? I had never really thought about it but I assumed anything liquid would do a similar thing, seems I was wrong.
    Water based glues such as PVA/AR can cause swelling due to the presence of water in the glue. Epoxy is not a water based glue so is ideal for situations where you don't want water present with associated swelling issues...eg fretboard/neck join and inlaying rosettes into tops. Where you don't want to use epoxy is in joints that may have to be reversed at some time in the future (eg bridge, back/side and top/side joints). CA glue has it's uses but be careful if using it on light coloured woods such as spruce as it will stain same yellow.
    Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)

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