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1st April 2009, 04:12 PM #226SENIOR MEMBER
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i use a vernier caliper to measure the distance ( i measure all from the nut until o go too far, then i mark 8"/200mm from the nut and go from there (my caliper is 8"). i use a set sqare (i think thats what its called, its an L shape so you can get right angles from the side) i cut the slots when the board is still square and flat. works well for me. you could use a ruler with 1/2mm increments as well if you want, but i find its difficult/sloe to see which 1/2 mm increment you are actually looking at, as they are so close it is difficult to follow the line up. either way, take your time. and measure thrice, think about cutting, measure twice then cut.
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1st April 2009 04:12 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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1st April 2009, 05:24 PM #227
cheers boys
but it turns out i was just being dificult...
i did it....
and it really wasnt that hard lol
heres some pics of the bass and seven string ....
i rough cut their neck blanks....
with their future fingerboards
bodys
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1st April 2009, 05:39 PM #228
dammit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
net died just as i pressed submit!!!!!!!
here we go again
the V.....
i slotted the figherboard....
and i routed the taper using a template i made....
truss rod in its slot... ready for fingerboard to be glued on...
under these clamps somewhere lays my V with its fingerboard glued on.....
now to wait for the glue to dry lol..
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1st April 2009, 06:12 PM #229GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Dec 2008
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- Bradbury
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- 1,429
ooh awesome!! Man i cant wait to see that V finished. And i cant wait to receive the bass and 7 string!! good work man..
I got my pups today and bandsaw.. havent tried it yet. Its not the worst looking thing ever..prob a bit better quality then i expected but lol
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1st April 2009, 07:10 PM #230
its getting closer to being finished lol....
i dont know if i want to keep it natural or paint it....
iv been looking for white pearlecsent paint for ages... but have no idea where to find it around here....
i also dont remember if i needed to recess the bridge a bit.... lol
we will find out tomorrow (if i dont decided to go down to bredbo)
i also have to remember to measure the body thickness and grind down the top screws and posts to suit....
hmmm im kinda looking forward to do some fretting
lol
to glue or not to glue?
iv seen a fair few people glueing their frets in...
also i may have to hammer them in,
unless somehow i can make a caul for my drill press...
oh and your dreaming about recieving these floody... hahahaha
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1st April 2009, 07:12 PM #231GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Dec 2008
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- Bradbury
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- 1,429
i prefer paint on v's but its a nice wood and would prob look good stained.
Im sure i saw the paint your talking about somewhere but i cant remember where..
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1st April 2009, 07:24 PM #232
yea the woods not bad.... but theres a few bad spots in the lower wing....
wouldnt be a problem if i was gonna have a pickgaurd.... but pickgaurds and V's are just wrong... hahahahaha
i could cut out the bad spots... and inlay in some more maple and try and match it up...
or i could shove some putty in it.....
but im not sure it will look ok...
the bad spots are like just a few little sections where some of the grain ripped out while i was planing down the front of the neck thru...... (its hard when the two grains are going in different directions!! lol)
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1st April 2009, 07:32 PM #233Apprentice
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Perth Aus
- Posts
- 577
the glueing method for fretting may be a little messier due to the glue ovverruns/spillage espc on fingerboard surface ...so it a bit more prep time to cater for tht
i prefer the hammer in method for newly cut slots cos they should be plenty tight enough to grip the frets if cut properly...but there is a danger that a backbow can be induced if the slots are too tight
however on used necks and refretting situations ...invariably i have to use a lot more glue and masking tape and wax and wht not ....Looking for
1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long
PM if you have for sale!
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1st April 2009, 07:39 PM #234
i was just thinking a tiny run of super glue along the slot before hammering....
i dont know....
wheres Stu?????????
i want to talk about something i read.....
something about leaveling the frets, and leveling from the 12th fret to the llast fret lower?
or something like that lol......
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1st April 2009, 07:43 PM #235Apprentice
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- Apr 2008
- Location
- Perth Aus
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- 577
tht sounds like putting in a fall-away on the frets itself rather than the fingerboard surface ...
if you use super glue in tht manner there's almost always spillage out the fret's side onto fingerboard surface ....so u might have to prep tht area (around the slot) to ease removal of the glue spillageLooking for
1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long
PM if you have for sale!
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1st April 2009, 08:12 PM #236
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1st April 2009, 09:12 PM #237Apprentice
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- Apr 2008
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- Perth Aus
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- 577
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1st April 2009, 09:39 PM #238
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1st April 2009, 10:10 PM #239
Personal taste whether to fallaway or not.
I give an extremely mild fallaway in the Fretboard from the 15th
If you're applying CA glue to frets , here's the lowdown.
I cut my tangs back from the fingerboard edge so they are not seen and leave a few extra mm of fret overhanging the fretboards edge. This is integral to getting glue where needed.
Hammer your frets in. If you need to clamp them down then apply pressure.
Have your guitar in typical playing position, now you use waterthin CA glue and
run it onto and down your fret end. It'll now run down your fret into the slot without causing mess.
If you apply a little too much you'll get some run out the other end but it won't be a problem to clean up.
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1st April 2009, 11:04 PM #240
so you put the fallaway on the actual fingerboard?
i guess ill cut the tangs as you say and drip the glue in from the side....
thanks for that mate
oh and whats the go with beveling the edges of the fretslots?
good idea? bad? just a way to mask frets that dont end up sitting right when put in?
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