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  1. #31
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    Sep 2008
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    what brand is it?

    from memory the stuff i got is in blue tins with red caps

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  3. #32
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    Apr 2008
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    Perth Aus
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    andrew - there is no brand on the bottles ... got the 2 bottle pack tht makes 250 ml and the squeeze bottles have white caps ...with red label (on the bottle) for 'resin part A' and blue label for 'hardener part B'

    ok...onto doing the front of headstock...to size headstock thickness around 9/16"

    router + router bit + mdf board + separate plank (same thickness as neck) for support ..then rout an inch at a time...moving the mdf board until we get to the line where there will be a curve ...approx 1" or so after the nut

    then sanding block to sand away the tooling marks

    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1952.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1958.jpg

    then out comes me woodcarver once more to trim away the excess wood....here we need a steady hand cos if you make a mistake here it will be all over rover

    1st pass
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1959.jpg

    and then the rest ...easy does it...
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1962.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1963.jpg

    then whip out the drum sander on the drill and finish off the curve bit

    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1964.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1965.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1968.jpg

    now time for lunch ....
    Looking for

    1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long

    PM if you have for sale!

  4. #33
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    Apr 2008
    Location
    Perth Aus
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    577

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    ok ...time to do some fretting

    i will use stew mac fret wire #0152 ...what they call medium/higher (crown)

    will need straight edge (metal stock square thing), sandpaper, dremel + cutting wheel, pliers (to bend fret at the ends so that when it is hammered in the ends don't pop out), super glue, flat files

    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1969.jpg

    first..we get the fingerboard as flat as possible using metal stock square straight edge wrapped with 80 grit for some fast sanding...then lay the straight edge down till it rests flat from the nut to about 15th fret

    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1970.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1971.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1973.jpg

    then i sanded away the section from the 15th fret to the last fret to create a little fall-away ....this is to compensate for the neck curling up under string tension ...shouldn't be a problem for this neck since it is 0 radius AND cocobolo but i always like to put in a fallaway anyways...
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1975.jpg
    can be hard to see but the fingerboard surface actually falls away from the black straight edge from 15th fret on ..

    then i polished up the fretboard and the headstock all the way to 1200 grit and then burnished the surface by using the other side of the sandpaper using the hard coco block

    headstock looked something like this by this stage
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1981.jpg

    then bend the fretwire at the ends (or where the ends will be) and then hammer in one end first then the other end ...and then from the mddle of the fret outwards towards the ends so tht entire fret rests flat on surface

    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1986.jpg

    then i cut the fretwire as close as possible to fingerboard edge using dremel + cutting wheel
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1988.jpg

    21 iterations later i get this
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1989.jpg

    then i filled in the fret slot ends with super glue + coco dust
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1990.jpg

    i actually had a few frets 'sticking out' at the ends cos i failed to bend the ends properly before i hammered them in ....for these errant frets ...i had to drip a bit of super glue into the ends while holding down the fret using the hard coco block

    then i used the flat file to file off the excess lengths at the ends as well as the super glue globs at each end ...also at this time angle the flat file to bevel the fret ends...
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1999.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1997.jpg

    flat file used by runing it lengthwise to the neck ...not crosswise !

    ok ...time for food ...then fret levelling later ....and then maybe drilling out the tuner holes ....we shall see if i have time ...prob not heh
    Looking for

    1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long

    PM if you have for sale!

  5. #34
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    Sep 2008
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    sydney
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    in the second last pic it looks as if the fretends arent seated well?

    are you using a steel hammer to hammer them in?

    and that headstock looks great!!

  6. #35
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    Apr 2008
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    Perth Aus
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew_B View Post
    in the second last pic it looks as if the fretends arent seated well?

    are you using a steel hammer to hammer them in?

    and that headstock looks great!!
    yup ...u r correct ....(well spotted!...i .need more than a pair of eyes ...it appears)

    they shall be pulled and re-installed ...prob with new frets! heh

    actually tht is the typical problem when i did not bend the fret ends appropriately ...

    and yes ...steel hammer ....only hammer i have
    Looking for

    1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long

    PM if you have for sale!

  7. #36
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    Feb 2007
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    sydney
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    might be best to get a hammer with copper or polymer heads, the steel could easily put some dings into the frets making alot of preparation neccesary. i really like the look of this neck, good job

  8. #37
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    Apr 2008
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    Perth Aus
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    thanks black_labb

    you are right in tht the steel flattens the frets something quick ...and those hammers you mentioned prob work better ...thnks for tip

    what i should have done in hindsight (since it has a 0 radius) was to clamp the frets in using steel rods ....and do the fretting BEFORE shaping back of neck to allow easier clamping ...

    oh well...working through me rustiness is an ugly business
    Looking for

    1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long

    PM if you have for sale!

  9. #38
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    Apr 2008
    Location
    Perth Aus
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    ok...in the light of the morning ...there were some errant frets still left on the fingerboard (thanks Andrew for the spotting)

    pulled them out with this rusty modded tool
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2006.jpg

    then filed off any bits jutting off the surface so surface is flat again
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2007.jpg

    then the usual bevelling ...and this time i ran the flat file over everything so that the top of the crown is filed on all frets ...this ensures all frets are levelled ...will do the re-crowning later if i can find me fret crown file ...if not i will use sandpaper and fingers

    on to the side dots and i will be using this in keeping with the colour theme
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2010.jpg

    drill, glue, cut with stanley knife
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2012.jpg

    after filing off and sanding flush we get this
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2013.jpg

    time for lunch!
    Looking for

    1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long

    PM if you have for sale!

  10. #39
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Blue Mountains
    Posts
    2,613

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    Quote Originally Posted by black_labb View Post
    might be best to get a hammer with copper or polymer heads, the steel could easily put some dings into the frets making alot of preparation neccesary.
    I use a piece of sacrificial softwood between the hammer and the frets, plenty of controlled violence!

    Nice neck
    "We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer

    My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com

  11. #40
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    Apr 2008
    Location
    Perth Aus
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    hehehe...i like tht pharse ...'controlled violence'....quite apt descriptor of me playing style

    cheers sebastiaan56

    waiting for lunch to digest then onto crowing the frets, tuner holes and bolt on holes and the ickety fine sanding everywhere which will be painstaking prob ...
    Looking for

    1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long

    PM if you have for sale!

  12. #41
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    Apr 2008
    Location
    Perth Aus
    Posts
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    ok...onto tuner holes and i dont have a drill press which is why i thinned down the headstock before drilling the tuner holes

    so i take the tuner hole position from the old neck using tuner upside down ...tuner holes meant to be around 0.5" from the edge and around 1" between holes ...

    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2016.jpg

    drill pilot holes
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2018.jpg

    and we get to this
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2023.jpg

    (yeah ...the spacing is not quite right between the tuners but should be ok ...hopefully )

    however, i SHOULD have taken the trouble to bring the neck to me cabinetmaker contact cos it was more difficult to do than i initially thought

    this wood grabs the drill ...resulting in pieces of furry stringy wood chips and gouges around the hole...i thought me drill bit was blunted...so i go buy another drill bit and same thing happened!

    luckily the tuner washer at top helped cover up the damage around the hole but next time...tuner holes to be drilled BEFORE thinning it down to size

    anywas...turned headstock over and drilled those little holes for the mini screws in the back
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2021.jpg

    ,,,i am still trying to find me crowning file but i fear it might be lost heh...so it might have to be sandpaper + fingers for the 'crowning' bit for the frets ...they have been levelled

    hopefully it be over and finished tomorrow
    Looking for

    1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long

    PM if you have for sale!

  13. #42
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    Apr 2008
    Location
    Perth Aus
    Posts
    577

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    ok...time to fit neck onto body

    size the overhanging bit to shape and the corners of the neck heel to fit the neck pocket...we get a tight fit like this...also check that distance to bridge from last (22nd) fret is correct
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2028.jpg

    put ruler down the centre to check everything is well....it is
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2029.jpg

    now drill bolt on holes
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2030.jpg

    use newer screws to 'thread' the holes and check depth of drillin
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2032.jpg

    test attachment to body
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2033.jpg

    ok ...now removed everything and sand everything including frets (which have been levelled) ...couldnt find me crowning file but did find a pre-slotted nut! heh

    started at 180 grit and all the way to 1200 then burnished the wood and polished the frets with brasso

    then install nut by glueing bottom of nut and trim off excess with dremel _ drum sanding bit
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2038.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2041.jpg

    then attach to body
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2042.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2043.jpg

    now we string em up to test nut slots (which prob will have to be deepened for low action)





    more pics...
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2077.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2058.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2049.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2053.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2057.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2084.jpg
    http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_2087.jpg

    Thank you all for following me thread

    hope you have had much fun in viewing it as i have in making it

    have a good weekend
    Looking for

    1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long

    PM if you have for sale!

  14. #43
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Blue Mountains
    Posts
    2,613

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    Pure mate, I hope it plays as good as it looks!
    "We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer

    My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com

  15. #44
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    Apr 2008
    Location
    Perth Aus
    Posts
    577

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    hehe...cheers Seb...

    i shoulda put an X-rating so we can save the children

    just had an hour session on it ...

    one word..

    LUXURY

    definitely does NOT require a finish and this wood is strikingly beautiful up close and it is very very stiff ...notes jump big off the fretboard ....

    no more maple necks for me! heh

    few more q-sawn coco neck blanks on the way too ...cant get enough of the stuff
    Looking for

    1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long

    PM if you have for sale!

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Age
    35
    Posts
    580

    Default

    that looks great, really like it.

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