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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Brunswick, Vic
    Posts
    25

    Default truss rod cavity help

    hi guys,
    just wondering if anyone has used hot rod truss rods, as I intend to install one in my current build.
    what I was wondering, is for a neck end adjustment, where should the truss rod cavity begin, ie, should it run all the way to underneath the nut, or can it be back a bit, eg beginning under the first fret.
    Any help or comments would be great.
    cheers, thelloydr

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne Outer East right next to mount dande
    Age
    73
    Posts
    1,859

    Default

    fendr neck close to the nut and adjuster at the rear
    i seen guys put the adjuster on fender necks at the headstock but its tricky
    angled neck it goes right through the nut - theres info on stewmacs website
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Brunswick, Vic
    Posts
    25

    Default

    thanks mate,
    i've got the stewmac info sheet, it came with the truss rod. Very basic stuff about how deep the cavity should be and dont glue the rod in etc. The diagram they give does not show you where the rod cavity should satrt. It would make sense to me to have the rod run all the way to the neck, but this is the first time ive done this and every diagram i see is a bit confusing. I am using an angled headstock, but a fender strat style fretboard, so maybe i'll just rout to the nut and then drill through for access. This will give me 10-15mm of unrouted neck between rod and adjustment pocket.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    173

    Default

    By "neck end adjustment", you mean where it meets the body?

    The rod has a small amount of length at the end where it doesn't do a whole lot. I'd suggest (within the scope of it's supplied length) trying to get the routed channel just shy of the nut, on the fretward side. Where it begins "acting" will be just that little bit closer to the needed area of adjustment - which is usually about the 6/7 frets.

    FWIW, looking to the next step, I have usually glued on fingerboards with the neck face down. It greatly reduces risk of Titebond (or your glue of choice) getting into that adjuster end of your truss rod.

    Regards, Adam.

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