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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default different side dots - method help - please

    Hi all, I've been a bit quiet but working slowly on my current bass build.

    I'm wanting to do something different with the side dot markers. In fact - not do dots at all, but more a 'strip' like what you find on Parker Fly guitars. These are still 3/32 wide but rod shaped, so roughly around 5-6mm long.

    So in a 6.25mm thick fingerboard, I'm trying to work out the best way to get these in. That is keep them centred, straight etc. I thought about using traditional plastic rod material lengthwise, or routing a small channel and filling with white Timbermate or similar.

    Anyone have any thoughts on a foolproof method??? The prospect of either chiselling by hand or routing such small channels daunts me a bit.

    The only thought I have had is to mount the board into my XY axis vice under the drill press. Using a 3/32 bit, move the board along a plane to "rout" the narrow channel.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    18

    Default

    You could try routing with a Dremel mounted in a routing jig. Works for routing intricate inlay patterns so I'd imagine it would do the trick for the side dots/bars.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    133

    Default

    Thanks Nobus,
    I guess the main difference with inlays is you have a bit more width to work with. The edge of a fretboard is pretty narrow, so if all is not square it'll stand out a fair bit.

    I suppose it might be possible to build a fence type jig attached to the Dremel so that the board is managed by hand. That might work.

    It did cross my mind to put the board into the workbench below the level and rout from above, but I'm worried about keep a line straight and centred.

    BBM

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Tallahassee FL USA
    Age
    82
    Posts
    4,650

    Default

    Clamp the fretboard between two stout pieces of timber, face down to make all three pieces flush. Place the clamps at the ends, within the height of the bounding timbers.

    Flip over, and attach a straightedge parallel to the centerline of the fretboard. Use the flat side of the router base for measuring. Cut the slots.

    Repeat for the other edge.

    Although the XY vise is excellent for precision placement, you'd have to re-clamp for each location, which almost defeats the purpose.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    2,370

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by joe greiner View Post
    Clamp the fretboard between two stout pieces of timber, face down to make all three pieces flush. Place the clamps at the ends, within the height of the bounding timbers.

    Flip over, and attach a straightedge parallel to the centerline of the fretboard. Use the flat side of the router base for measuring. Cut the slots.

    Repeat for the other edge.

    exactly what i was about to type

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    133

    Default

    Thanks guys.
    Thankfully I've some spare 1/4inch thick hardwood to practise with.
    I'll be trying a few methods and will let you know how it goes

    BBM

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