Thanks Thanks:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 6 123456 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 79
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Age
    64
    Posts
    112

    Default ES-335 Copy - Tassy Blackwood

    I've just started a build of an ES-335 copy. I have the plans done and I have the wood (from guitarwoods.com.au).

    On the weekend I'll be making all the routing templates for the body (arched top and back) using clear acrylic. I had my drawings printed on A1 paper at a local print shop.

    The bottom is AA Tassy Blackwood and top is AAA flamed Tassy Blackwood. I have joined the book-matched pairs in readiness for routing and carving.

    Cheers,

    Mark

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    5,014

    Default

    The 335 is my favorite guitar shape. I'll really look forward to seeing the finished article.

    I assume that you are going to leave it natural?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Age
    64
    Posts
    112

    Default

    I was planning a cherry red stain but grain will be visible.
    Last edited by GourmetSaint; 6th June 2007 at 05:06 PM. Reason: typo

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    5,014

    Default

    Speaking of 335's, check this out if you haven't already seen it.

    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ght=ec%27s+335

    You can see how Gibson does it.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Age
    64
    Posts
    112

    Default

    OK - a couple of question for all you who have gone before me. So far I have:
    1) Purchased and glued the book-matched timber (Tas Blackwood)for top and bottom.
    2) Completed the drawing and had them printed full size.
    3) Made the routing templates in 6mm MDF for the body contours.
    4) Purchased a Dr Parts LP custom neck (nice quality/finish).
    5) Purchased Gotoh tuneomatic bridge and stop piece
    6) Purchased neck plate and screws.

    Questions:
    1) Should I glue the neck in (when I get that far) as well as use neckplate and screws?
    2) What's the best way to determine the rake back of the neck? From the "arch" once I've finished the body shaping?
    3) Should I use a sealer before staining (cherry) to get more even colouration?
    4) Should I attach the binding (white to match purchased neck) before or after staining? How do you "scrape" the binding evenly after staining?
    5) Would gold surrounds for pickups look too much? Black surrounds?
    6) What colour pickguard? Black pearloid?

    Sorry for all the questions. I cannot bounce them off my DW.

    Mark

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne Outer East right next to mount dande
    Age
    73
    Posts
    1,859

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GourmetSaint View Post
    Questions:
    1) Should I glue the neck in (when I get that far) as well as use neckplate and screws?
    [A] NO definitely not its a bolt on

    2) What's the best way to determine the rake back of the neck? From the "arch" once I've finished the body shaping?
    [A] draw it up carefull and cut the pocket to match the angle you calculate from ur drawing - this is a very tricky area btw

    3) Should I use a sealer before staining (cherry) to get more even colouration?
    [A] yes

    4) Should I attach the binding (white to match purchased neck) before or after staining?
    [A] seal and stain and seal again before cutting the binding chanels

    How do you "scrape" the binding evenly after staining?
    [A] with great care

    5) Would gold surrounds for pickups look too much? Black surrounds?
    [A] gotta take a punt here mate

    6) What colour pickguard? Black pearloid?
    [A] gotta take another punt here mate

    Sorry for all the questions. I cannot bounce them off my DW.

    Mark
    question for you mark what is the dr parts neck like??
    wanna post some pics including some detail closeups??
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Mount Isa
    Posts
    77

    Default

    The end design is up to you man. Far as I know, ES335's are set neck, provided the body join is stable enough you shouldn't have any problems, perhaps a bit of investigation into acoustic guitars could help you with that one. You're probably gonna want to put a strap peg in where the neck join is, bare that in mind.

    Neck angle is covered briefly here: http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/tips/eangle.htm - from Martin Koch's book. Most people suggest you make a full scale drawing of the guitar, front/side/back and profile views, to work from, that way you know beforehand what the angle will be.. PM if you need more and I can provide some info...

    As for the pickup surrounds and pickguard, that's really up to you, I'd only offer that you should come up with the overall style of what you want - think over the Lucille style, Clapton's 335's, decide which overall style best fits you.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Age
    64
    Posts
    112

    Default

    I think the neck is great. Ready for finishing. I'll photograph it and post on the weekend. Thanks for all the feedback.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Age
    64
    Posts
    112

    Default

    I have done that. See first page of drawings in top of post.. The angle there is 2deg. I also have the Martin Koch book which I've "devoured"

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Age
    64
    Posts
    112

    Default

    This may seem like another "dumb" question but what style of "knobs" have you used for your works of art? I'm thinking of using a variation "Jimmy Page" wiring setup with push-pull volume and tone pots. Need the ability to pull and push the knobs, I am wondering if the traditional "bell" top knobs are suitable. Any ideas? Anybody using different wiring plans?

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne Outer East right next to mount dande
    Age
    73
    Posts
    1,859

    Default

    the rule i use with knobs is less is more
    some i just have a volume thats all
    most just 1 volume 1 tone

    i find as a player with a complicated onboard electronics with switches and coil taps phase switches etc that i look for the guitars sweet tone and thats all i'll use often have ended up pulling all the crap off guitars for the sake of simplicity and better tone

    thats why i love the tele design so much it is so simple
    esquire takes it a step further and that straight through sound is awesome
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Age
    64
    Posts
    112

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by old_picker View Post
    the rule i use with knobs is less is more
    some i just have a volume thats all
    most just 1 volume 1 tone

    i find as a player with a complicated onboard electronics with switches and coil taps phase switches etc that i look for the guitars sweet tone and thats all i'll use often have ended up pulling all the crap off guitars for the sake of simplicity and better tone

    thats why i love the tele design so much it is so simple
    esquire takes it a step further and that straight through sound is awesome
    Yeah - I hear you. I think I'll tone it back a bit but I do want the "classic" ES-335 look (3 way switch, 2 Volume, 2 tone). I think I'll use the attached layout just so I can play with series v parallel.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    5,014

    Default

    When I changed the pups on my Epiphone 335 it was quite a pita having to drag all the electronics out through the f holes.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Age
    64
    Posts
    112

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by craigb View Post
    When I changed the pups on my Epiphone 335 it was quite a pita having to drag all the electronics out through the f holes.
    I can imagine. I'm dreading the installation job which unfortunately has to be after joining the top and bottom (and finishing)...unless somebody has another idea...

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    5,014

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GourmetSaint View Post
    I can imagine. I'm dreading the installation job which unfortunately has to be after joining the top and bottom (and finishing)...unless somebody has another idea...
    I can't think of how else you could do it. Even if you wired the pots up and attached them to the top plate before gluing it on you'd still have to drop them for finishing.

    Btw, what wood are you planning on using for the centre block?

Page 1 of 6 123456 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Looking for a copy of Forum DVD
    By numbat in forum Instructions & New Video Requests (& General Comments)
    Replies: 103
    Last Post: 13th September 2008, 10:06 AM
  2. Staining Blackwood?
    By Scally in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 11th May 2006, 05:56 PM
  3. Blackwood, Glass and Steel Dining Table
    By Sir Stinkalot in forum WOODWORK PICS
    Replies: 33
    Last Post: 25th August 2005, 05:12 AM
  4. Blackwood and Celery Top pine...SALE.
    By Tasman in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 2nd April 2005, 02:43 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •