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26th April 2014, 02:03 PM #16Awaiting Email Confirmation
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27th April 2014, 01:58 PM #17Alumnus of Wood and Strings
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Bandsaw method
I use a run of the mill 6 tpi blade. To reduce the kerf, I hold a file on the blade while the bandsaw is running (both sides) until the desired kerf is reached. However, the file will be wrecked after this process and the blade can then only be used for that one purpose.
I have to put a disclaimer on this, because it can be dangerous and I don't recommend it. I have done it, because necessity is the mother of my invention.
I haven't looked into the possibility of buying a blade with the right kerf. I doubt whether you can buy one off the shelf.
Baz
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27th April 2014, 02:02 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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The band saw idea looks interesting, however I would never have envisaged it possible to cut a slot 0.024" thick, I have never seen a blade that thin.
As far as filing the edge of the blade down to fit, ???? doesnt sound right to me, but okay.
Issues I can see, when one flips the board over because it cannot fit a band saw table, the slightest discrepancy of the jig board not being perfectly square, will transfer into possibly lines that are not parrallel to each other.
Not really an ideal IMO
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28th April 2014, 01:00 PM #19Alumnus of Wood and Strings
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I've made around 12 fretboards by this method. They all work fine. Why would there be any discrepancy by flipping the board due to table length. Square is square. If the jig has parallel sides to the centreline and the pin is dead centre, you can't make a mistake. Spend time on the jig and you'll have no problems. I have three jigs for guitars with differing scale lengths and two for mandolins. I have only made three mandos and they all work fine too. My main instrument is the violin - no frets, no worries.
Baz
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28th April 2014, 01:05 PM #20Alumnus of Wood and Strings
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[QUOTE=simso;1769338]The band saw idea looks interesting, however I would never have envisaged it possible to cut a slot 0.024" thick, I have never seen a blade that thin.
Think of it like this. Your kerf depth is what??? 2.5 mm or less or fretting??. The teeth on the blade are 3 to 4 mm deep. You file the teeth, not the blade.
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28th April 2014, 11:03 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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I just found it interesting that you could file down the teeth on a bandsaw to a sufficient width suitable for cutting a fretslot. Nothing more sinister than that
in regards to the jig, anything that requires you to reposition during the cutting is super important that it is square.
As far as fret slotting itself, nothing special at my end, part of my business is making and selling fretboards / fingerboards and so forth, I only average about 30 or so a week, I also sell templates of varying scale lengths for others to cut there own fretboards.
Steve
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7th May 2014, 09:53 AM #22
I had a similar setup to what simso described having, a compound mitre saw that I adapted a stewmac mitre box to fit.
It served me for a while and made dozens of guitars however I found I wasn't happy with the amount if flex. It hardly flexed, but the fact that it flexed a little bit was what I wasn't happy about.
The last and my current slotting setup is made from a dewalt radial arm saw and the same stewmac mitre box. This I find much more reliable. No flex and perfect slots. Easily adjustable for height using a winder.
The radial arm setup is several hundred dollars more to outlay, but in the end I'd never go the mitre saw option again.
I'll have to shoot a video of it one day.
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