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  1. #1
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    Default Glueing binding to a guitar body

    Hi all,

    I am looking at putting black plastic binding around the top and bottom of the body for a telecaster style guitar body. The body is made from Australian Red Cedar. I don't want any of the glue running into the ARC as I feel it will make it look all blotchy and of course that wont sand out.

    I was thinking the black binding would look great matching a black scratch plate, but I don't want to mess it up.

    Any thoughts regarding this and the glue type?

    Paul

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  3. #2
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    Decided not to use the binding, after having it almost finished. The ARC looks nice as is.

    Paul

  4. #3
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    Aug 2008
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    Melbourne
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    If anyone is still reading, I'm still interested in answers on plastic binding glue types, even though Paul has gone unbound!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    Acetone is what is used, tape binding in place then with a syringe dribble the acetone between the plastic binding and timber. The acetone melts the binding on to the body.
    I would prefer to use timber binding as the plastic stuff ends up shrinking over time and comes away from the timber.

  6. #5
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    hi Cal, interesting theory, wouldnt the acetone run into the ARC and leave blotchy marks on it?

    Paul

  7. #6
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    I donít think that it would make the plastic binding soak in to the wrc, but I would seal the binding channels with shellac first to stop the acetone running past the channels and evaporate before the binding bonds to the timber. It would only need a light coating of shellac. Try it out on a scrap bit with and without the shellac and see if it works for you. The acetone wonít stain the timber in any way as it will evaporate.

  8. #7
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    Hi Cal and thanks for your comments. I'm not going to worry about the binding now. I've had the guitar together and I think it looks better without worrying about binding. I routered a nice gentle roundover edge around the top and bottom. (as I have seen Telecasters have those). I've put 3 coats of conductive shielding paint into the pickup and electronics cavities. I'm going to buy some ingredients today to make my own WOP and then I ordered a can of Behlens buffing polish. Hopefully this will give me a lovely finish. I did buy a can of spray lacquer, semi gloss, but on testing it out on an offcut of the ARC, the finish was rather flat and dullish. Wasn't that happy with that.

    Paul

  9. #8
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    Feb 2016
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    Canberra
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    for the perfling, to stop glue runoff and penetration, one uses a wipe of shellac.

    To glue, use either CA or epoxy. Scrape when dry.

    This is exactly what to do for the rosette. No different.

    I learned these techniques from:

    -- Bogdanovich: Classic Guitar Making
    -- Luthiers Mercantile Int'l (@luthiersmercantile)
    -- Yvo Haven (@luthierhaven)

    and of course StewMac (@stewmac_guitar)

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    for the perfling, to stop glue runoff and penetration, one uses a wipe of shellac.

    To glue, use either CA or epoxy. Scrape when dry.

    This is exactly what to do for the rosette. No different.

    I learned these techniques from:

    -- Bogdanovich: Classic Guitar Making
    -- Luthiers Mercantile Int'l (@luthiersmercantile)
    -- Yvo Haven (@luthierhaven)

    and of course StewMac (@stewmac_guitar)
    Except for when gluing nitrocellulose or plastic binding, that is where the acetone comes in to its own, completely compatible with both the above for use as a glue. It bonds the binding by melting the back of the binding into the timber. And I agree about the shellac seal in the binding slot (which I mentioned in my previous post)

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