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Thread: New Build - start from scratch
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5th November 2008, 08:36 PM #1
New Build - start from scratch
Hi All,
I was a bit unsure whether to post yet, as I have only started drawing. It'll likely take me around 8 months to finish
I've posted info on the build before, but to repeat, LH tele qld maple neck thru with one-piece top and back qld walnut, and pretty hollow wings qld maple, ebony board.
Pictures so far attached
Pic #1 - The terry downs pdf printed at fullsize a cut and pasted. transferred to pic 2 on 12mm MDF. Pic 3 is also traced from a file off the net.
Any feedback or thoughts so far?
This is the first time I've drawn a lefty, its a build for my own use.
What I know,,,,
The F- hole is around the wrong way (drawn from a right hand file - forgot to invert).
had to redraw the body position as I forgot this is a gibson scale fingerbaord. Could be moved a bit more possibly to give more room to the neck pup ring.
Forgot to draw in wiring rout and string ground.
Main concerns were for the rear cavity covers, I want to cut them from the actual back material. (QLD WALNUT)
I intend to do a 'black burst'
BBM
Gee it feels good to have started. Hope I don't bore you with my slow progress
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5th November 2008 08:36 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th November 2008, 08:56 PM #2
Hi BBM
It will be difficult to bore me with a Tele, will follow you build with interest. I am curious though, if it's a through neck does that mean the neck is set on a angle as in a L.P. or is it still parallel to the body like your average Telecaster.
Jim
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6th November 2008, 09:09 AM #3
Hi Toejam,
I am using a Schaller Roller bridge (stewmac) and I expect that there will be some degree of neck angle, I won't know exactly until I piece the actual bits together.
I don't think the angle will be as severe as a tunomatic.
BBM
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6th November 2008, 03:12 PM #4
Building Bridges
G'day BBM
Thanks for the reply. I checked out the Schaller bridge at Stewy Mac's and as always they look like a quality product. I'm a bit of a Gotoh fan and I do like these ones(pic). they have stainless steel roller string guides but differing from the Schaller with the string through the body. These are available in Australia too.
Jim
If I'm reincarnated I want to be a woodpecker
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6th November 2008, 03:24 PM #5
Hey Toejam,
You may have missed it, but I'm doing 2 humbuckers on this tele, a little like the 73 deluxe model.
I used the 5 string bass equivalent of this bridge on a previous build,, and was very happy with it, thats why I am using this particular model
BBM
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6th November 2008, 05:40 PM #6
Oops, yes, did miss it. In truth i did not even look at the drawings closely I just saw that tele shape and my ears pricked up.
Jim
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6th November 2008, 06:40 PM #7
i have used the schalle roller and all you do is adjust the depth of the neck pocket
no need to angle the neck at allray c
dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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6th November 2008, 07:13 PM #8
Hi Old Picker,
this is a neck thru along similar lines to Oz-Tradies Qld Walnut build from earlier this year
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ight=oz-tradie
I am assuming I can do one of 2 things.
1. Introduce neck angle by sloping the neck blank, then gluing on wings at that angle then squaring the whole thing up
or
2. reduce the thickness of the body end of the neck blank (with its wings) to leave the whole thing flat (if that makes sense), this will mean the fretboard will be raised above the body by the same amount that the neck angle would compensate for (???)
I think I prefer the first option, but am open to opinions
BBMLast edited by bassbuilderman; 6th November 2008 at 07:36 PM. Reason: add link
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7th November 2008, 08:24 AM #9
i wouldn't bother with neck angle if you use one of these schaller rollers
i like these bridges as they probably the simplest of all to set up
they have good mass and give great tone
but if its one of these
you may have to - personally i never much used tune 'o' matic style bridgesray c
dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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7th November 2008, 11:38 AM #10
Definitely the chrome roller bridge in the top pic.
I used the 5 string bass version on a previous build, and it was fantastic. Tone sustain, weight, all perfect.
I'm expecting similar from this one too.
Michael
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8th November 2008, 06:46 PM #11Novice
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Hi, you are unlikely to need any angle as these bridges are lower than a standard tele style, you may not need any more than fretboard and fret height to get action which will make a much easier build, but these bridges have a very small adjustment window so triple check your calculations before getting out the glue bottle.
Garry.
Oh yeah, if you want to make wooden back plates ensure the wood is well quartered or make up a 3 ply section [learnt this one the hard way]
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9th November 2008, 12:26 AM #12
Hey Garryalb,
I've not done wood cavity covers before. Could you please elaborate on the problems and solutions you've found
Thanks
BBM
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9th November 2008, 10:48 AM #13
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10th November 2008, 04:51 PM #14
No update
Sorry Guys,
No work this weekend.
SWMBO still wants me to fix up a couple of things arounf the house.
Now you know why it takes me 8 months to finish a build.
Also, off the topic a bit, but I've had my credit card hacked again (twice in 3 months). I really only use to buy online guitar stuff. Anyone else had this trouble? Its a separate VISA card with a small limit, so its max'ed out and can't be used until the transactions are reversed, so I have to wait a bit longer for the timber for this build.
BBM
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10th November 2008, 05:20 PM #15
Now you have me worried BBM as Ive only just started using a credit card online. Do you know how it happened?
While I'm here, about you rear control cavity covers.
The long story
If the pieces you use for the back covers are back sawn or even skew sawn then it is almost quaranteed that they will move quite alot. Because they are thin and also Qld Walnut has a medium movement in service they are likely to cup or warp quite significantly. You may get away with very well quatersawn pieces of wood as quater sawn wood is dimensionally stable (less likely to cup although if it picks up moisture on one side only it can still cup). If it is not well quatersawn then laminating it into three-ply will help make it behave for you. Also putting a finish on both sides will help.
Jim
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