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Thread: renovate a 12 string
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12th September 2016, 10:48 AM #1New Member
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renovate a 12 string
I have an old 12 string who's top plate has warped to the point that the action is no longer acceptable (nearly unplayable).
I considered just fitting a trapeze tail piece and dispensing with the bridge termination for the strings, but I would rather correct the fault than stick a band-aid on it. This raises the question of how to remove the top plate (or the back) to gain access for the repair without destroying the whole guitar.
Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob.
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12th September 2016, 11:55 AM #2Member
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The short answer is - you don't remove the top or back, all repairs are done through the soundhole.
What needs to be done (and how successful it might be) depends on where the problems lie. Loose bridge? Loose bracing? Heat damage? Bridge plate loose, worn, cracked?
Tops can be flattened, structural components reglued and reinforced if necessary but you're getting into the kind of repairs that need expert knowledge and specialist tools (the tools can be bought or fabricated). And that's assuming the neck angle was OK to start with and low action achievable.
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12th September 2016, 06:40 PM #3
Without seeing the instrument it sounds like what you've got is bellying up of the lower bout behind the bridge. There are various ways of dealing with this.....here's one used by quite a few repair people. The JLD Bridge System
The root of the problem is bracing that is of a design/construction that doesn't sufficiently counter the tendancy for the bridge to rotate (front down/back up) under string tension. The back of the bridge rotates up and the lower bout bellys up. As dpm notes any repairs to counter this are a job for an experienced person.
If it were me I'd probably rip the top off and make up a new one with better bracing.Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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12th September 2016, 10:09 PM #4Novice
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The brand of the guitar plays a big role in any considered response. What brand is it and has the soundhole sunk or the bridge lifted or both?
Also, is it a laminated or solid top? And do you feel comfortable taking the bridge off? How old is it?
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12th September 2016, 11:01 PM #5
Rob, can you post up some photos of the guitar? Pics of the top, an end-on shot of the bridge and a low angle shot across the lower bout would be useful. Please try and capture any bellying in the lower bout and any deformation of the bridge (front down/back up). Is there any indication that the back of the bridge is starting to lift? Have a feel inside the guitar and try and ascertain how many tone bars there are under the lower bout (I fit 4 on my 12 strings) and if there's an extra short braces running along the back of the bridge plate.
Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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12th September 2016, 11:11 PM #6
Rob, here's a useful discussion on bellying and some approaches to remedial action. Note that youre looking at some serious surgery that's best left to a luthier/experienced repair person. Just getting the bridge off without serious damage to the top is a challenge.
Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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14th September 2016, 10:07 PM #7New Member
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Thanks for the responses guys (gals?), I sort of thought that it might be a keyhole job. I'm quite comfortable with taking it to pieces, it was just a case of the best way to do it. I don't have it in front of me but I'm pretty certain that the bridge is not lifting, it's just old (better than 25 years) and likely wasn't a top guitar in it's youth (though clearly not the bottom of the range either). I'd guess that it's got tired. It doesn't rattle ie lose braces etc when played. I'm sure that I can get pictures.........but how to up load them might be more of a challenge than the guitar I'll see what I can do.
Rob.
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