Thread: Rock maple fretboard prep for lacquering

install the nut & mask it off b4 spraying - you can install it later but you have to mask the slot carefully - also you can lacquer the nut but you will need to recut the slots and if spayed it is hard to get it out later milling and crowning frets will remove residue of lacquer run a sharp stanley blade along the junction between fret and board before milling frets - when you crown em what didnt come off with the milling will fall off as soon as the file hits

Thanks - that was my preference!
Archer

Archer,

If you're after an "old Fender style" finish, there's negligible lacquer on there, anyway - so dressing it off doesn't give any ragged lines. If you want to build up to a full gloss, or are using poly of some sort, then scoring along the edges is advisable - just take care for the blade not to wander!

I often (initial) dress the frets level between coats of lacquer, leaving only the re-crowning after all finishing work is done. Rock maple doesn't drink much anyway, so don't lay it down too thick even if you're going for 100% gloss.

Take care to "break" the fingerboard edges and fret ends well before applying finish - this is one of the major differences in feel between necks, and avoids excess flaking or wear on a sharp transition. If you can see a real old Fender (not a re-issue) this is a pretty evident detail.

Regards, Adam.