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29th December 2013, 06:02 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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hi there Wal, Blackstar and Simso, Thanks very much for your most informative replies, great stuff. This arvo I spent some time in my shed modifying my overhead router sled which I built some time ago. Previous I could only fit 20mm under it, used it purely for dressing and thicknessing timber for making boxes. Today I heightened the sides/fences to about 46mm. I can now fit my body under it, guitar body that is, not mine.
So fingers crossed this will work for my neck socket (when the neck arrives). And also of course for my pickup cavities. The body shape is not a LP shape, I got the template from another site on the net, think it was designed by a "Martin Koch". Like I said its a solid piece of queensland maple. I will do photos later on, when I get into it.
Like a lot of young blokes I played in a rock band in the late 60s, (now I am 64), back then I bought a brand new Paul McCartney Hoffner Beatle Bass guitar, cost me 98 pound in 1965 when I was earning 5 pounds a week at my first job. My GoldenTone bass amp cost me 200 pounds. Wish I still had them, I sold them both when I got called up for nashos end of 1969.
About 7 or 8 years ago I bought a fender strat pack from Venue Music, (now closed down), and messed about with that at nights. Then about 6 months ago I bought a "supposedly called Casino Les Paul Gibson" for $115 on gumtree. And now I much prefer to play it rather than the strat.
So this project is purely for a woodwork project, but I must say after looking at Wal's first guitar on that link he sent, top job also, got me motivated. Possibly next time I might have to go the whole way.
Thanks again, Paul
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29th December 2013, 06:56 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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29th December 2013, 07:09 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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Okay I just re-read your original post
37mm will make it a slimmer body, most electric guitars are 42mm in height teles / strats, Lps Sg's etc are about 50mm finished centre height and taper out to about 40ish on the edges.
Ideally you want to make templates when routing neck sockets and pickup cavities, this way your router can basically trace a line to any depth required
Steve
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29th December 2013, 08:17 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Steve,
Yes I realized it was on the thin side. It's just the size of the piece of the maple that I come by. I'll have to live with it, well for this one anyway, and see how I go.
Thanks again, Paul
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29th December 2013, 08:34 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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30th December 2013, 10:28 AM #21GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Steve,
Great idea, but,..!!!, I have already put a nice round routered edge around my body, stopping before I got to where the neck socket will be. Yes I jumped in a bit to fast, but these were the plans from that "Martin Koch" video that I was following.
I wouldn't have any way of removing that as I don't own a thicknesser.
Thank again, for your assistance,
Regards, Paul
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4th January 2014, 03:42 PM #22
Cliff I built two LP 59's and enjoyed every moment of it. Have since done other things that are not quite so expensive.
My advise go slow and if in doubt ask and use photos as this helps people understand better, a picture paints......... Take photos as you go. The second one I made was for my son so I created a power point slide show and put it to music. A priceless gift he'll cherish for ever.
Here is a link if you are inclined.
The guitar boys will tell you it get in your veins and they're right it's so satisfying.
Best wishes and good luck, you'll be fine.
KerryKerry Larkan
Melbourne Australia
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22nd January 2014, 06:36 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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Hi all, My guitar making project has become a bit long winded, at the end of the day, hopefully I will have two, but that's another story for later on. One question at this stage please. When cutting the fret slots, from what I can see you cut them on the flat fretboard. Then after that you have to put a 12 inch radius onto the fretboard before you insert the frets. How do you maintain the same depth of the slot when you are removing timber on each side of it.
Surely the outer edges of the slot have less timber left in them and hence are shallower.
The frets I have ordered are 2.5mm thick, one of the blades on my TableSaw is 2.7mm, this would be to sloppy,..?
Regards, Paul
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23rd January 2014, 12:41 AM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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Oh me oh my.
The fret slot should be approx 0.020" wide, about 1/2 a mm. The tang of a fret is about 24", the crown is anywhere from 60-120" wide (1.5-3mm) approx,
The fret slot should be deep enough across the whole fretboard to allow the tang to seat fully home, so whatevere the tang depth is, you need that depth plus a tad bit more
Yes fretslots are deeper in the middle than on the edges when cut with saws. The fretboard radius should be whatever you want and still maintain the minimum tang depth required
Only cnc routed / controlled blades / end mills, have the capability to cut fret boards to a depth even with the board profile radius
Hope this helps
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23rd January 2014, 12:57 AM #25Member
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After sanding the radius on the fretboard, I use my fret saw with a depth stop and go over the frets slots again to put the correct depth back on the slots. You just have to be very careful to keep the blade perpendicular as you can't do it with a mitre box. Most home builders do it that way.
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5th February 2014, 06:51 PM #26GOLD MEMBER
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Hi all, Another question please. The holes for my tail piece posts (LP) are about half a mm to large, hence the posts are way to loose. What are the suggestions for correcting this problem in order to make the posts solid.
Regards, Paul
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5th February 2014, 07:35 PM #27Member
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The ideal way would be to glue in a dowel then sand flat and re-drill. That would depend on whether you can get the correct sized dowel. It would need to be a hardwood. The other issue is once it's filled, would the posts cover the old filled hole so you won't see it. If you're going with an opaque finish then you'll be fine.
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6th February 2014, 12:56 AM #28SENIOR MEMBER
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6th February 2014, 10:26 AM #29GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks fellas, I'm still "plugging" away here,
Paul
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6th February 2014, 03:07 PM #30
The same thing happened to me when I built my first LesPaul, if it's only 1/2 a mm over and you're using a tune-o-matic tail piece the posts will have a little flange on top just big enough to cover it up. If you don't have the correct size hard wood dowels and you don't have a lathe to turn some, you can clamp a good sharp chisel in a drill press vice and clamp the vice to the drill press, jam an appropriate lump of wood in the chuck, set your speed to high and use the drill plunge to turn up a dowel. I have done this many time with great success. Or you can go with the over size feature thingy as suggested by simso, that'll work well too.
regards
Wal<style type="text/css">p { margin-bottom: 0.25cm; line- 120%; }</style> Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. Abert_Einstein.
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