Thread: my thicknessing jig

Nice work black_labb. Shows what can be done when you want to. I was thinking of making something very similar for routing contours of an archtop / carvetop. Do you think it would work for that? Can you let us in on what its like to control - ie. could it follow the contour line freehand?

Anything about the jig you would do different if you built it again?

Would it also be any good for routing binding rebates with a rebate and bearing bit for those bodies that have an archtop, but the binding is flat and parallel to the back?

Cheers
Archer

Originally Posted by Archer

Nice work black_labb. Shows what can be done when you want to. I was thinking of making something very similar for routing contours of an archtop / carvetop. Do you think it would work for that? Can you let us in on what its like to control - ie. could it follow the contour line freehand?

Anything about the jig you would do different if you built it again?

Would it also be any good for routing binding rebates with a rebate and bearing bit for those bodies that have an archtop, but the binding is flat and parallel to the back?

Cheers
Archer

i can see it being great for that, a bit of doublesided tape underneath to keep it steady and off you go.

i forgot to mention that you need to use double sided tape or a clamp for most bits of wood, if i was thicknessing a big bit of wood like the qld maple in the pic then i doubt you would have to clamp, but when it goes off the end clamping is no issue.

i cant think of anything i would have done differently, i was planning on making a side mounted clamp system so i wouldnt have to put clamps on the end, but its too much of a hassle, and double sided tape works for most things that cant be clamped easily. its such a simple design that its easily adaptable, so if i need to change something it wont be an issue.

You and your milk crates... better be careful or the dairy farmers union will be on to you

Neat and very simple looking jig mate. I shall put something like this together in the near future myself.

Great stuff mate!!

Tell me what do you put under the timber to keep it from moving when your routing? do you clamp it to the workbench top? dont tell me you use double sided tape to hold it still????

Cheers!

Originally Posted by Wild Dingo

Great stuff mate!!

Tell me what do you put under the timber to keep it from moving when your routing? do you clamp it to the workbench top? dont tell me you use double sided tape to hold it still????

Cheers!

i clamp some things (if its something that i can clamp without getting in the way of the routing)

the double sided tape actually works very well. all you need is some small strips at either end, then stand on the thingfor a sec, doesnt need any more than that. the only issue is when im doing somehting on a piece that isnt smoothe enough for the tape to stick to, but ive been able to work around that usually, with more tape

Originally Posted by black_labb

i clamp some things (if its something that i can clamp without getting in the way of the routing)

the double sided tape actually works very well. all you need is some small strips at either end, then stand on the thingfor a sec, doesnt need any more than that. the only issue is when im doing somehting on a piece that isnt smoothe enough for the tape to stick to, but ive been able to work around that usually, with more tape

I find it awesome for template routing guitar bodies, takes 10 minutes to pry it from the timber!

Good work Black Labb!! I like these tools, shows what is possible without spending squillions! I will definitely be making the thicknesser set up in the future, I have a thickness planer however the SNIPE it leaves behind is not always desirable....I reckon your setup would be better for figured timbers also with less chance of tearout. Those clmps are beauties....no rocket science, just good practical stuff, I like it

Originally Posted by Wild Dingo

Great stuff mate!!

Tell me what do you put under the timber to keep it from moving when your routing? do you clamp it to the workbench top? dont tell me you use double sided tape to hold it still????

Cheers!

i have a similar setup and merely put a spacer block on one side and tap wedges in the other side - usually begin with flattest side down or if cupped convex side up - works a treat - can reuse the wedges and pulls apart in seconds. you need to have your side rails pretty solid

Very nice, Blacklabb.

A very simple idea , yet so effective.
You don't mind me making one of my own I hope.

cheers, Stu

Those clamps need wingnuts.

thanks for the responses. thats a good idea old picker, if i start having any issues ill give wedges a go. i dont know if you could get enough leverage with wingnuts, but i have dented the wood about 5mm in where the washers go so maybe im going a bit overboard. id rather be safe than sorry with a neck laminate. even if it does take a bit extra clamping time. i usually use some other clamps to get the wood in place then go for these, as they take longer to tighten.

speaking of spending small amounts, i use the router for nearly everything, but i got it for 65$ on ebay from some guy who imports tools. seems to be the same model as a gmc 1800 watt, so it cant be that bad. been working for me for a while too surprisingly just hope that it doesnt fail on me by taking out days worth of work at the same time.

to avoid making another thread i have been considering binding the 12 string im planning (nothing has been done other than gluing up the neck blank, its been glued for 4 months or so)

was thinking of making the template to be followed for the inside of the binding cut, and leaving the rest a bit wider. then i would do all the nessisary carving and then install the binding. then i would use a laminate trimmer followng the binding to trim the rest of the body, doing so from below. ill keep thinking about it.

the problems i can think of are.

- holding the binding against the body will probably be a bit more difficult as there would be a lip below the binding. this could be solved by sawing closer to the edge, or using a strip of something outside of the binding that will make it larger and allow it to be pushed into the channel more easily
- installing the binding that early may have some complications/have to be more careful
-is the binding spongy enough that it would compress under a bit of pressure from the bearing on the flush trim? ive never used it before so im not sure.

binding is quite stiff so would not yield
dunno why you want to do it this way as it will, AFAICS, potentially make a lot of problem - more than doing it the trad way

Originally Posted by old_picker

binding is quite stiff so would not yield
dunno why you want to do it this way as it will, AFAICS, potentially make a lot of problem - more than doing it the trad way

the main reason is i dont want to buy one of those router bits from stumac as they seem pretty expensive for something just so i can put binding on a guitar. maybe ill see wether i can get a suitable flush trim and get a different sized bearing to fit it to do the same thing, but i dont know if i can. might end up just getting it from stewmac.

decided to put this in here as its not so much about making instruments, but i won a 200watt australian tube amp from around 1970 (its a bass amp, might convert it to be used for both though, maybe with only 2 as opposed to 4 6550's)
here it is
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA:IT&ih=004