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  1. #1
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    Default First time ukulele build and research.

    Rather than clog up Cal's great Ukulele build thread I will post my questions and thoughts here. I have been thinking about what my next project and direction should be.

    The last few years have given me a change in direction and I hopefully have some more time available to pursue some of my own interests. Five months ago I decided to learn the Ukulele and find it more difficult than what the UTubes say. But onwards I go.

    I was in Japan six months ago and saw a Ukulele worth $4000, at that stage I had not played a Uke but was impressed with the sound that came from it.

    It is fair to say it has a bit on the $120 Uke I purchased here when I got home. So, at this stage, I intend to do the research necessary to see if I can build a Uke that at the very least sounds better than mine which is more than OK. To me, it seems pointless building something with an investment of time and money in it if it fails to live up to its potential.

    These are the things I have to get my head around, any help or direction will be appreciated. This is going to be a slow project and I am not above taking short cuts by buying kits or half kits if I have to.

    TONE WOODS: And where to get them, professionally and also alternative cheaper DIY
    RESONATOR:
    SHAPING THE BODY: I have seen some butane bending irons, I need something simple, otherwise the cost will outweigh the project and I may as well go to Hawaii and buy a Koa.

    Any other help or directions will be appreciated.

    Pete

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    There are a couple of luthier supplies sites here in Aus, https://www.luthierssupplies.com.au , https://www.guitaraust.com.au , Guitar Woods , https://www.australiantonewoods.com . I have had no dealings with any of them as I am using timber I have milled or found locally on gumtree. You could also contact Jim at https://www.cwsonline.com.au, I was in Geelong on the weekend and a friend had me look at his guitar with a view to repairing it, he happens to be friends with Jim and mentioned that Jim could source Sitka Spruce.
    The next thing to think about is bracing timbers for the inside, this should be quarter sawn and similar to the soundboard timber, most use spruce. I have a little King Billy pine for this purpose.
    For the sides and back again quarter sawn is best as it will be less prone to splitting when bending (sides) it also moves the lest of any cut of timber (more stable in expansion and contraction with humidity change). I noticed looking at my daughters tenor ukulele that it uses ply for the soundboard and back, it is a $100 instrument.
    Resonators are not something that you will find on a standard ukulele, some makers produce them in limited numbers but they are no where near as loud as a guitar with resonator, I would leave that be for now.
    Bending iron, yep you could do a torch with a thick walled pipe. I didn’t go this way but as you may have seen with mine it requires electrical knowledge so don’t go there. Practice heaps before you get to the good timber though, it’s a learning curve in its self.

  4. #3
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    Thanks Cal, I think I will look at building a Butane Bending iron. I had purchased from Booktopia a book called ' Make your own Ukulele " by Bill Plant. I will have a re read and see if I can get my head around it. He has a Chapter and colour photos of How to make a Bending Iron and using it.

    One step at a time, I just need the motivation to plunge on into the unknown.

    Pete

  5. #4
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    Just saw this pic on a Facebook page of cigar box builders, simple but effective.

  6. #5
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    Thanks for that Cal. I am putting together a shopping list, and as soon as I decide which way I am going Pay Pal will get a call.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    blue mountains
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    Pete,
    I think Cal's advice is good. Start with something simple as a first go to learn some basic building rules. I don't think anyone builds a perfect instrument first time round. A cigar box uke is a good learning experience. Things like attaching the neck,setting the action, where the bridge goes for intonation and quite a few other bits to learn what makes an instrument work. Aim at playable for the first one then each one after that gets a bit better. Most uke players also lust after cigar box ukes so before long you will have a big order list from the people you play with.
    My first CBG now looks very crude (playable however) compared to what I build now. I must also warn you that building these things can be habit forming.
    Regards
    John

  8. #7
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    Thanks John.

    I think I may be able to get my hands on some used Cigar boxes. I will put that part of the deal in train now.

  9. #8
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    I get cigar boxes from ebay usually between ten and twenty bux. Make sure its a wood one as some are pasteboard and wont sound great. Other bits I get from this guy.
    http://www.mrwsinstruments.com/
    Being in Oz saves all the shipping costs of ordering from the US as I used to do.
    Regards
    John

  10. #9
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    I am on much the same course as Star at the moment. I have a book called " Build Your Own Acoustic Guitar" By luthier Jonathan Kinkead and it is very thorough and good. So I am making a rough copy of my Kala concert uke which is a very nice instrument - spruce front, mahogany ply back and sides.
    As others have said the quality of the wood is paramount in building an acoustic stringed instrument. It is a fine balance between the thickness of the wood, the quality of the wood and the quality of the build. Kincaid suggests western red cedar (Maton is making wrc guitars now) as a tone wood and also douglas fir. Both are common around here so I've started to slice and assemble my own backs and fronts from old door frames etc. I have also sliced up some 3 x 2 firewood of what might be swamp mahogany for fretboards, the first two I made too thin before I built a radiusing jig and learned to leave them thick enough to put in frets. The necks I am making out of a red cedar board I had. Its soft enough to shape easily and strength is not such an issue with four nylon strings. I have also found a log of rosewood that I had sliced for a piece of furniture about fifteen years ago but the miller ruined it and I just put it away in disgust so now I have pulled that out and will make some backs and side sets.
    Bending the sides looms ahead. I have made a compression jig and intend to make a steamer, steam the sides and then bend them hot in the jig.
    Kinkaid also suggest holding the pieces and tapping them and listening to the sounds that they generate, looking for bright clear tones and sustain.
    The glue I am using is the Sika-bond pva. Its good to have a glue that can be undone with a hot steam needle for repairs in the future. (fingers crossed that doesn't happen.) And I have just drawn up a fret slot cutting jig.
    DSC00030.jpgDSC00039.jpgDSC00038.jpgDSC00035.jpgDSC00040.jpg
    Hope these come out OK. Should show some necks with the little bamboo sate stick locating pins so you can put them on and off the neck for fitting. Later those holes will be filled in with pearl dots or something. Rosewood back/fronts thick enough to make archtops or archbacks. Oregon back and sides backsawn for the grain pattern and oregon cut on the quarter and then matched up and glued into a soundboard. Also a couple of the too thin fretboards but I realise they will be useful for making bridges. Phew, using the computer is harder than woodwork. Hope this helps.
    Also some bone nut and saddle pieces, a head with an almond wood veneer (my all-time favourite wood), template with oregon back and a couple of necks with some too thin fretboards in front. The too thin fretboards might go on to be incorporated in saddles.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Toymaker Len; 28th September 2018 at 02:41 PM. Reason: adding pics

  11. #10
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    Gee. Thanks Len. I am keen to follow your journey as well. I never thought of Western Red Cedar. I wonder if WRC weatherboard siding would work. I had a heap of offcuts that went in the fire.

    I replaced the roof of my Outdoor Spa Cabin and it costs about $5.50 a metre. I will have to check the width, night just be wide enough for a Ukulele. The thickness at its thinnest edge looks about right. starting to think outside the box now!

  12. #11
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    Well with the wrc you need to be able to cut it on the quarter for the soundboard which is why I have that piece which I think is an old door jamb.
    I am also buying parts from luthier supplies and the cheapest bits like tuning pegs from ebay but it is a long wait for the bits to turn up from china.

  13. #12
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    Len, sometimes they surprise you. I ordered a Tenor Ukulele fretboard and pegs from Ebay China and they arrived in under two weeks.

    Now, I have to work out what to do with them.

  14. #13
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    I also got a tenor uke fretboard from China. Cheap but it took about six weeks.

  15. #14
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    Len,
    I would be reluctant to risk using cedar as a neck wood. WRC does make great sound boards however. I have done tenor and baritone ukes as well as a dulcimer with it. It is soft and tends to show dings real easy but sounds great. Old wall lining boards are a good source.
    Just after I started making CBGs I saw these guys play and knew I was on to something and that almost anything can be used to make music. My playing still needs some work however.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGA_XMwq5fg

    Regards
    John

  16. #15
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    Thanks John, yes I just talked to another maker yesterday and he warned me off the red cedar necks too. Think I have some old kauri that I will start tap testing tomorrow.

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