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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    You almost certainly have more experience with spraying finish material than I have. Apart from rattle cans, it's almost 10 years since I last applied a spray lacquer.

    The only thought I have with your proposal is: will you be sanding the FW sanding sealer back between coats? I have heard of situations where FW's sanding sealer takes a very long time to dry -- like over a week. Which I think related to either multiple coats before sanding or a single very heavy coat.

    As you say, the proof will be in the pudding. Perhaps start with the back, and if all goes well proceed to the top.
    Thanks again Ian. I didn't intend to sand back as such, as Id be very close to the maple stain now on the violin. I will be going over it all carefully with a micomesh pad 500 grit to remove dust.

    I think a potential for the long dry time issues could be that the "Application" instructions on the can state that if spraying, spray 2 or more coats thinned 20% with turps.
    What is not stated clearly is the time between spray coats...except further on under "Drying Time", drying time is 6 hours before sanding, so you have to join the dots.

    I went onto their web site and looked at the spec sheet and there it states 6hrs between coats.

    It would be easy if you speed read the label, to lay on 2 coats in one hit, and then have to wait over a week for the bottom coat to dry with all those vapours trapped under the second coat.

    I will report back.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    You almost certainly have more experience with spraying finish material than I have. Apart from rattle cans, it's almost 10 years since I last applied a spray lacquer.

    The only thought I have with your proposal is: will you be sanding the FW sanding sealer back between coats? I have heard of situations where FW's sanding sealer takes a very long time to dry -- like over a week. Which I think related to either multiple coats before sanding or a single very heavy coat.

    As you say, the proof will be in the pudding. Perhaps start with the back, and if all goes well proceed to the top.
    Up date with photos:



    Used a cut down rubber-backed sanding pad to wipe on un-thinned Sanding Sealer (SS)across the grain into some tear-outs still showing after first spray coat of SS.



    Used the bowl sander pad, minus the arbour, to hand rub back remaining tear our areas going with the grain, using a cut-out 3" diameter piece of Velcro backed 400 grit 'paper'


    After going over the whole body violin with 500 flex paper and 0000 steel wool, making sure no steel fibres remained, sprayed another coat of SS + maple stain , a little thinner than the 1st this morning. The colour is getting darker, so I might stop adding stain to the final coat of SS tomorrow.
    The SS goes on gloss (when I took the photo)and dries matt, but the photo should indicate the final look of the thing.
    Its begun to look like a violin...from a distance anyway !

  4. #18
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    And a good use for a microphone stand to help prevent sags on the top.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    You almost certainly have more experience with spraying finish material than I have. Apart from rattle cans, it's almost 10 years since I last applied a spray lacquer.

    The only thought I have with your proposal is: will you be sanding the FW sanding sealer back between coats? I have heard of situations where FW's sanding sealer takes a very long time to dry -- like over a week. Which I think related to either multiple coats before sanding or a single very heavy coat.

    As you say, the proof will be in the pudding. Perhaps start with the back, and if all goes well proceed to the top.
    Hi again Ian and all,

    Update : The sanding sealer mixed with prooftint maple went on well. I decided to try shellac as you originally suggested and found this Zinsser product on the web. Had a lot of trouble finding it but eventually did in a craft focused store only 10 minutes from home ! It is applied straight out of the can, and certainly doesn't need any further thinning. Even for spraying.

    Tried hand wiping application but found with the violin's tricky shape, I either had some runs, or couldn't keep up with a wet edge. But I could see the potential, so sanded it back all over to get rid of runs etc, and experimented with the gravity fed spray gun on test pieces.
    Ended up adding some more prooftint to the shellac, doing the sides and the back of the violin by spraying with low pressure (30psi) and a lower than usual fluid volume ratio to air.

    I'm happy with the result and may do another coat after a few days and a 1500 micro mesh rub . As you suggested , leaving the the body top until last.
    Here's a photo of the first spray coat, and the product.



  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    You almost certainly have more experience with spraying finish material than I have. Apart from rattle cans, it's almost 10 years since I last applied a spray lacquer.

    The only thought I have with your proposal is: will you be sanding the FW sanding sealer back between coats? I have heard of situations where FW's sanding sealer takes a very long time to dry -- like over a week. Which I think related to either multiple coats before sanding or a single very heavy coat.

    As you say, the proof will be in the pudding. Perhaps start with the back, and if all goes well proceed to the top.
    Hi again, A violin playing friend likes the finish, but had a comment as follows.
    "Could I tone down the orange/red tint, to a slightly more 'cool brown' (whatever that means!). lol.
    What tint colour in the Prooftint range would you use to add judiciously to the next coat of shellac ?
    Thanks,
    Don

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by donnyb View Post
    Hi again, A violin playing friend likes the finish, but had a comment as follows.
    "Could I tone down the orange/red tint, to a slightly more 'cool brown' (whatever that means!). lol.
    What tint colour in the Prooftint range would you use to add judiciously to the next coat of shellac ?
    I'll ask the artist son as I have only the vaguest of ideas
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by donnyb View Post
    Hi again, A violin playing friend likes the finish, but had a comment as follows.
    "Could I tone down the orange/red tint, to a slightly more 'cool brown' (whatever that means!). lol.
    What tint colour in the Prooftint range would you use to add judiciously to the next coat of shellac ?
    Thanks,
    Don
    Tobacco...

    The problem is that you may have to do some "addition by subtraction"... As brown over orangey may still end up orangey..

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    I'll ask the artist son as I have only the vaguest of ideas
    well the artist son wasn't much use.

    Best I can suggest to send your current stain slightly browner, is to try adding a tiny bit of black stain to a portion of your current stain mix.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  10. #24
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    [QUOTE=truckjohn;2081981]Tobacco...

    The problem is that you may have to do some "addition by subtraction"... As brown over orangey may still end up orangey..[/QUO

    Oh. Of the Feast Watson colours in the link here , is 'oak' the closest to your 'tobacco' ?

    Prooftint Traditional Stain | Spirit Based Stain, Retains Timber Grain

    Any opinion of Ian's suggestion above too, of trying black ?

  11. #25
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    Test on scrap. Black tends to do weird things... Like make things grey...

    I would get in contact with a violin supply place.... Here's an example of stuff you can get.. ColorTone Liquid Stains | stewmac.com

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