HI FI EQUIPMENTWe've got musical instruments so the equipment that brings the final sound to life in your home. This forum is for makers etc of speakers and other nifty Hi Fi stuff.
I was just stuffin around on CAD and knocked up a " nautilus speaker " , thought id post it here , the big end has not been scaled to fit any sized speaker , its easy enough to scale it up to the size you need
the segments are made up in 5 degree parts , its a bit rough but i think it adds to the shell shape , but took me long enough to draw this one , 1 degree parts would be good , it's also solid , good for making negative moulds , not good for the 3d printers out there
below are the CAD files , i saved it in several common files types , if you cant open them , ask and i might beable to add another file type
you are free to copy it to make one or plan on someday making one ,but you are NOT free to repost these files in any format, link to this page if you must
Nice work SawDustSniffer I think the Nautilus design has to be up there as the ultimate in speaker cabinet designs, but unfortunately it is a little limited as it only really suits sealed drivers, not to say it couldn’t have a port attached to the end and become a transmission line design.
A few months ago while surfing for cabinet ideas I came across some transmission line speakers that I thought had some merit. But I can’t find any software that tells me how to work out the dimension and tuning frequencies.
im actually working on a scroll for my violins , one that is easy to cast and make out of carbon fibre , i just draw them over size ,so once there reduced the roughness of texture disappears
i figged some one might use it , this one the spiral isn't to my liking , each 1/4 arc is 2x as large as the one before it , so im redrawing it with the golden ratio of 1.618
Did some reading and the reducing scroll is still a form of a transmission line speaker. Apparently the ultimate TL has no vent but the vent is often included as a safety net to stop any possible back wave.
If you feeling courageous you could always make it out of layers of MDF and build it with a router… Hmm just gave myself an idea, build the outside of the box square and put the scroll on the inside to hide the look of it…
Stop it before I get tempted ... hmmm some clear tall cabinets with several scrolls moulded in, can’t say I have seen too many of them out there. How dear is the resin?
Could see the whole speakers and crossovers, that would be kind of trick.
So how would you do it? Make the shells, put them together, make a soft plug, put the plug in a box and poor the resin around the plug, remove the plug?
Hmm just gave myself an idea, build the outside of the box square and put the scroll on the inside to hide the look of it…
i like your idea ,
how a drawing of a ??? minimalistic violin scroll can turn into a speaker has got me beat , i was reading your post's and thought , "" Nautilus shell is good for mid range ", why the hell the main manufacture has the sub Woofer in that shape is beyond me ?
so i scaled all those little segments down by 0.8 , and gave some MDF meat between the coils
yer its fallen apart , small problem
i can get partial board "packing sheets " for free and own a CNC , so i can ship a prototype for cost of post ,
so thats settled ,
but you wont be able to see your drivers " gimmick " worse than the shell shape , (where is the slap smiley )
i think every one should jump in and add bits , comment , active criticism is needed , good bad , and the ugly , and lets restart a new post , " The Ubeaut Speaker " , cad files down loadable , but not repostable , link here if they blog .( WTF blog is spelt wrong ??/)
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you seam to know what your doing , i can build what you know , like many others in each state ( cnc section ) ,
hell my sound system gets great acclaim , and its crap , cheap #### 1990's technics AA series amps (4) , at 90watts RMS , through 800watt PA speakers (8) 7.1 surround , yer it blows your ear drums out , about the only thing its good for ( have a dry dam , and projector) , live on a large block , the dirt walls of the dam are good at stopping the locals complaining ?? its more like "dam party " lets go ( the AMPS are 10x the quality of the pc 's ( with blue ray ) crap MOSFIT output)
so with the new plan , ive shrunk each segment to give some structural strength between the coils
not sure how to bring the coil to the front of the cabinet ? , i like the centre , " The Trombone " , the 3rd is just rotating untill the the coil sticks out the box ( input needed )
so what's the recommended cubic meters of air space for a specific mid range driver ,
its basicly a rolled up cone , volume is easy to work out , im over 1 radius , so can cut ,size , paste and keep extending the coil untill it matches the volume of air needed ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadScratcher
So how would you do it? Make the shells, put them together, make a soft plug, put the plug in a box and poor the resin around the plug, remove the plug?
lol , no redraw it to solid MDF , well why use resin when fibre glass reinforced expanding grout ( concrete ) is only $35 per 10kg ( 120mpa resin $190 for 4 kg , cant add more than 10mm at a time or it will over heat and cook ) ??? clay slip , and get it fired $??? )
once again , make up a sloppy mix and roll it around the back yard untill it hardens ( 3 hours ) , put the cartons on and your mates will help
just a share post , once again , down load it for your own use , dont repost or use it for commercial profit , link here for down loads on blogs
speakers3.zip is a google sketch file , no im not drawing on that form , but can repost most file formats , just ask
if 1 bloke can design a speaker worth $60,000
60,000 can design a speaker worth $1
hell were a small population , let 10+, of us construct a better speaker than the average worth $6000
I don’t think it would be overly problematic that the outlet of the horn finished in the vertical position since you need to offset the higher range drivers anyway. Instead of tilting the speaker back just position them where they naturally fall.
Yes making it clear is a bit of a Wally factor thing, but it would be different, I wouldn’t mind spending $1000 a cabinet (20kgs resin each) if I could guarantee results. Only problem is at 10mm a go it would take for ever to get them built.
so is there any easy rule of thumb about speaker diameter x throw , to work out the air volume and blow hole size ?
im gonna make one of these , looked in the "packing sheet" area today at work and the pile is about 1meter high ,4footx9foot 12mm 16mm 25mm a mix MDF and partial board
ill load up a heap on saturday
just been thinking about blow holes , and thought a defused blow hole would work best , so a matrix of donuts , 1/2 cut each donut on each side of a sheet , joining mutable layers to bounce the sound around as much as possible?
Not following you on the blow holes, but not sure there is a great deal of need to bounce sound waves for the sake of bouncing waves, as long as they dont return to the speaker cone that would be sufficient... But interested to see what you come up with.
so HeadScratcher if you had assess to a CNC and free partial board what shape would you use , lol my offer still stands ill knock you up a set and freight at your cost , no courier , ill drop it off at a fraight company , and you pick them up from there depot , from past experience it was $1.50 a kg to Melbourne
cut up 6 sheets of 16mm partial board tonight into 400x600mm ( a stack nearly 1.2meters high ) and 1 / 10 th of the packing sheets about to be dumped
the shape im working on is no good for a sub <>woofer only mid range , yer i know , the room and my couch position would make more difference, but thats not the point is it
to make it more understandable i knocked up this drawing , a google sketch might help , the sketch file shows what 1 sheet will look like , the block in the middle of the holes will fall out
Ok I think I see where you’re going with that... I think it would create too much restriction. If sufficient air couldn’t pass through it the membrane then the circles would effectively provide a surface to reflect off. You would probably be better off with something like the anti reversion exhaust headers of the 70’s.
i was basing mine on ,mixing sound waves until its white noise ,but letting it breath , restriction would only come from not enough surface area , double the area of the port size (all those small holes area added up , )
the best would be to delay the sound 1/2 a wave length and let it out the front , but any length would only work for 1 wave length , so unless you have heaps of speakers all at a single wave length ???? it wont work , so turn it to white noise ?
there all the same size , thats not too good , starting off with larger donuts , and progressing to smaller ones would be better , because of harmonics the size range would only have to be between 1/1 to 1/2 size
any reflected vibration should cancel out the direct vibration
Nautilus speakers design , with file download 
worth $6000 
