Start Building Another Dutch GIS
I have just started building my new GIS. I will do things in a different order, starting with bulkheads, foils, rudder and spars and finally build the hull. This will keep my working space maximized.
I have started with a hollow mast and allready changed some design details :o Sorry MIK !
My philosophy is that it's fun to build boats with local available low cost stuff. In the real woodbuilding ages people build boats with oak if there was oak in local woods, pine if there was pine or hardwood if there was hardwood ( Egyptians even used papyrus,since there was not much wood available in their dessert :U )
Since there are not many local woods available anymore in the Netherlands ( we have cut down all trees in our "golden" age, to build boats ) in modern times the equivalent of our local woods are DIY-shops.
So locally I will have to make boats with any kind of "warranty" plywood, european fir in variable quality and "tropical" hardwood from their garden departments. If needed I will use copper nails ( can be sanded down easily if left in place ) stainless steel machine-screws ( nowadays available at low costs ) and 1comp waterproof white construction glue ( Class 4 PVAc-dispersion ). With proper woodsurfaces and sufficient clamps this makes excellent bonding and works very clean ( you can wipe glue away with water, it dries within few hours ) .
I only use more expensive epoxy for sealing and protecting the whole construction, some glassing and some roughly made joints.
I certainly do not advice against MIK's original design and specs! Having seen and read his plan it's shure you will make a great boat exactly following his plan. It is only my personal " thing" to do things slightly different and still get a great quality GIS ( at least I hope......)
Regarding the mast;
I was able to find a good quality european fir planks at 4.80 length 18x120mm and with very little knots ( and at a very low price ) . I am making a 81x81mm tapered to 56x56 mm box-mast ( as per design ) using this wood. This means wall thickness is 18mm ( and not 12mm ) compensating for less strenght of fir comparing to douglas. I am not shure yet about final weight penalty, fir in general is lighter than douglas and 18mm box-section could be more rounded than 12mm so it could be quite okay?
I have attached first few pictures, as you see sides are more narrow at max 45 mm since 2x 18mm is added to close the box. And you need lots of clamps to get sufficient pressure ( I had them already ).
I will keep you updated.
Best Regards
Ralph