HELP for GMC compound mitre saw

G;day. I have a GMC 305mm sliding compund saw which is making a terrible rattle as the blade slows.
Checked blade assembly tightness etc, all good.
Stripped the saw down and reckon the gearbox is the problem. Main shaft for motor has slight play and I can make the gearbox make more or less noise depending on the way I hand turn the motor.
Anyone know how to remove the nut that holds on the cover that appears to hold the gearbox and motor on the mounting/blade shield?
I've checked but can't see any cir-clips or grub screws and don't want to use excess force (yet!) in case I bust something then find out a simple disassembly.
Any help greatly appreciated,
Richard

Maybe not very helpful, but have you tried to google the make and model to see if there is an online guide?

thanks for the suggestion. I did try this approach, (and also as a Triton) but no luck. Lots of owners manuals etc but couldn't find a repair manual
Richard

Hi sandie.
It is probably a silly suggestion, but does the bolt have a left hand thread?

luv.

maby its just frigin tight?

thanks a lot guys, tried all the old tricks and tactics we'd usually try inc the sharp tap like when changing a drill chuck, all no good. Found some other stuff on the web and it seems these are prone to a gearbox failure and no parts are available. I've bought a de walt

Sandie,

Don't throw it out. Just remove the motor and pivioting arm, make up a bracket to take a router. Now you'll have a sliding overhead router.

Did this to an old Ryobi SCMS that died with gearbox failure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Bleeder

Sandie,

Don't throw it out. Just remove the motor and pivioting arm, make up a bracket to take a router. Now you'll have a sliding overhead router.

Did this to an old Ryobi SCMS that died with gearbox failure.

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Can you post a few photos of that please. Mine is starting to go on the blink and it may be handy to know how you did this.


Peter.

Sturdee,

You are in luck as I did take some photos of the finished item (then the camera died).
Hopefully i can transfer them and i'll try and post them tonight with a bit of an explanation.

Sturdee,

Pic 1. Basically showing the final piece

Pic 2. Used some left over angle plates from a deck I built. Note the vertical bolts at the rear. They are used to stop the flex on the mounting plates. The reason I did it this way rather than have it fixed is because the top angle plate is adjustable via grub screws.

Pic 3. The router is positioned to run down the same line as the original saw blade. It is also positioned far enough back that the 45 left and right angles can be used. The maximum size bit for this would be about 1 inch which leave just enough behind the fence line. I currently only use a 1/2 inch bit so i don't have to worry to much.

Pic 4. You can see 4 grub screws in the top angle plate. These allow for height adjustment left to right and front to back. There is a big centre bolt (under the rod on the top) that fastens the top plate to the original slide arm.

The top angle plate had two slots cut out to allow it to fit the original slide arm. The 4 grub screw holes where drilled and then the assembly was aligned so the router ran a 90 degrees to the fence. Then the holes were drilled down into the original slide arm. This way the grub screws hold the alignment to the fence. Then the grub screw holes were tapped out.

BTW, the router is just bolted through the existing holes. Just like you would when mounting in a table.

Now, the reason I built this was a decking job I had to do. The client required that the butt joins have only 2 screws and they must be in alignment with all the others. Client says client gets (at a cost). The slide action gives about a maximum 145mm of travel so 90mm boards where no problem.

Damm thing worked a charm once I got it set up. Rebating 90mm Merbau boards (rebate was 35mm wide and 9.5mm deep) in three passes. Now it's out on loan. (BIL)

Only thing is I didn't get any pics of the the deck and how it all worked.

Got no idea of the cost $ wise but only to 1 day to build. Hardest part was removing the original motor arm. That sping Ryobi used is strong.

Thats a very good idea I like it.:2tsup:

Thanks very much for the photos and description. Whilst the saw still works I'll leave it but when it gives up the ghost I'll do your mod. Thanks again.


Peter.