A Router Table Using Linear Rails For a Lift

My other thread has not had anything added to it because I have been helping Stuart from Illawarra Wood Working School build a new router table. It uses a CNC spindle and two linear rails for the lift using a lead screw operated from the top of the table to change the height. The top is two sheets of 12mm phenolic board because it came from another table. One sheet would have done because there is nothing hanging from underneath the table but the top was already built. A VFD controls the spindle operation and a DRO measures the height neither of which have been finally installed. We will get a 3D printed mount for the DRO head and the VFD panel with the VFD itself remotely mounted. It could have been a lot more complicated but simple in a multi user environment is much better because some people will push any button they see to find out what happens.



The first picture shows the lead screw and rails installed with the RT laying horizontally on the floor. The height adjuster goes into the silver coupling sitting on top of the black bearing block. It will be a hex drive from an allen key or long screw driver drive and will go through the top. It will be locked via a screw which will be in a steel sleeve and by engaging with the flats it will only require finger pressure to engage it. If we had used a round shaft a lot of locking force would have been needed.
Attachment 452798

Showing the lead screw and rails on the fixed half of the slide
Attachment 452799


Shows the bearing blocks on the back of the slide
Attachment 452800



Setting the spindle perpendicular to the table top
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The nearly finished RT
Attachment 452802

How much did this cost? The spindle kit with VFD included cost $496 and the rails and screw drive cost just on a $100. I snagged the spindle kit at a great price because normally they are around $550. The DRO cost $35 so all up we have a RT with above the table lift control, digital measurement a CNC spindle for about $650 which kills buying a router and lift by hundreds of dollars. The VFD gives way better speed control with a lot less motor noise. The spindle kit came with a full set of ER20 collets which will allow any size shaft cutter such as end mills etc to be used and I think it will go slow enough to be used as a spindle sander but the jury is still out on that one at the moment. The top can be a single sheet of whatever you choose as it will not have to support 10 kilos of lift and router weight and can be installed to lift off if needed. This means special purpose tops could be utilised for special jobs like pin starts etc.

Brilliant

Great idea. Would you be able to post a parts list and sources? I know Google Is My Friend, but it would save a lot of time...

All the parts came from Ebay.....

DRO: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150-200-...72.m2749.l2649


Spindle Kit: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CNC-2-2K...72.m2749.l2649


Linear Bearing Rails: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-2PCS-...72.m2749.l2649


Lead Screw: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SFU1204-...72.m2749.l2649

We used MDF because it is cheap and stable and can also be replaced quickly if damaged. A lot of stuff can flow from this, one thought I had during the build was put the slide assembly on bearings so it can be tilted towards or away from the fence to give the same cutter different results, this has been done by others but using expensive lifts. The idea of different tops is an area I have never seen explored as well. I never understood the noise difference between a router motor and a spindle until I saw this video. keep in mind that it is the cutter that makes a lot of noise on top of the motor. It also shows information about hooking up the VFD to the spindle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWACS6dMMQ0&t=10s

This is nearly finished bar the lift control which I have prototyped as a 3D printed model and that is now being made in steel. It will be above the table in this instance but could just as easily be below the table and use a handle as the commercial units do. The first photo is the 3D printed mount for the DRO readout and the VFD control panel. I removed the VFD panel and got some ribbon cable and a couple of plugs from Jaycar and the VFD itself can be seen tucked up under the top on the right hand side. I am very impressed with the result especially the noise levels of the spindle motor which are impressively low

.Attachment 454505Attachment 454506

I have two router lifts. Both are from Woodpeckers. Old model and new model. Both are superb and both have their faults.

First be aware that Porter Cable has ceased production of their 3¼ HP router motor. (PC 75181) These motors here in the US are the preferred one for router lifts. Motor diameter is important.

Australia uses a different type of delivery of electricity so I'm not sure of the appropriate motor to use there.

The router lifts with a crank handle are easier to adjust precisely but a chore to get close enough for the precision adjustment. The router lifts with a quick lift can get close but a thumb wheel is used for precision. MEH. The lift thread on lifts with a crank is important. Here I was offered 16 threads per inch or 32 threads per inch. (Some early models are 8 or 4 threads per inch. Precision is possible but not easy.) This means 1/16-inch or 1/32-inch change in bit height per revolution of the crank. Even though there is an indicator, counting revolutions of the crank is helpful. I chose 32 threads per inch. (Irritating)

And there we come to the great metric/imperial divide. On the crank models, make sure that the thread on the crank is in the system that you work in. Believe me when I say, one of the more annoying things in the shop is a metric thread on a machine that you are trying to use in the imperial system. I have a Grizzly Jointer/Planer or Jointer/Thicknesser. The planer height adjustment is on metric threads, and I work in imperial. It seems trivial but it is extremely annoying.

One other thing. Spinning the crank can cause blisters. The solution is to cut a 2.5 or 3 cm diameter circle from a piece of timber. Round the edgers over and drill a hole about half+ way through the timber for the crank handle. Just slip the circular piece of timber over the crank handle and you are ready to go.

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Originally Posted by Chris Parks

This is nearly finished bar the lift control which I have prototyped as a 3D printed model and that is now being made in steel. It will be above the table in this instance but could just as easily be below the table and use a handle as the commercial units do. The first photo is the 3D printed mount for the DRO readout and the VFD control panel. I removed the VFD panel and got some ribbon cable and a couple of plugs from Jaycar and the VFD itself can be seen tucked up under the top on the right hand side. I am very impressed with the result especially the noise levels of the spindle motor which are impressively low

.Attachment 454505Attachment 454506

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Your table looks great.

Hey Chris,

I know this is an old post but I’m looking to do the build and had a couple of questions.

1. Is the digital readout used much in practice? I assume that this needs to be zeroed each time the bit is changed. I love a gadget as much as anyone but I wondered how useful this would be vs just hand measurements.

2. Any advice on the VFD and/or spindle? Obvs the eBay links you used are long expired so I’ve been looking on eBay and Aliexpress. The Vevor 2.2kw spindle looks popular. I know from other experience with VFD’s that they are not all made the same.

3. Do you have a picture of your water cooling setup?

4. I saw you mention somewhere using this with a sanding drum - did you ever get this working?

Thanks!
Pete

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Originally Posted by bluenose

Hey Chris,

I know this is an old post but I’m looking to do the build and had a couple of questions.

1. Is the digital readout used much in practice? I assume that this needs to be zeroed each time the bit is changed. I love a gadget as much as anyone but I wondered how useful this would be vs just hand measurements.

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I believe it is used a lot but funnily enough I have never worked on that RT due to no need.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bluenose

2. Any advice on the VFD and/or spindle? Obvs the eBay links you used are long expired so I’ve been looking on eBay and Aliexpress. The Vevor 2.2kw spindle looks popular. I know from other experience with VFD’s that they are not all made the same.

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Pick a spindle that comes with a set of ER collets as that allows you to size the collet to the tool. I have only used Powtran apart from a few early Huanyang and I have sold a lot of Powtran over 10 years with zero problems. I have just ordered a 2.2kw Powtran for my new build and it cost me it cost me about $300. I sold the original VFD that came with the kit years ago but the one at Illawarra Wood School is using the VFD that came with that spindle IIRC.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bluenose

3. Do you have a picture of your water cooling setup?

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Mine is yet to be installed in the new table but it is a plastic paint bucket from Bunnings with the pump in the bucket and two holes in the top. Make sure these are sealed to prevent dust getting into the water as it will clog up the cooling system as we found out recently. Luckily the cooling ports on the spindle can be easily serviced but it was something that did not need to happen.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bluenose

4. I saw you mention somewhere using this with a sanding drum - did you ever get this working?

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No, I just saw it as a possibility and it makes the table dual use. Being able to change direction of rotation should be a plus for other uses. If you need to see it I can arrange a visit to Woonona or my fully electronic version is having the electronics installed on the weekend if that interests you. My electronic version has been a bit of an experiment but all the bugs have been ironed out now and you are welcome to have a look.

A few current links that look good

Spindle:VEVOR 2.2KW Water Cooled Spindle Motor Precise Engraving CNC Water-Cooling ER20 283961305388 | eBay

VFD: 2.2KW CNC Spindle Motor VFD Inverter Drive 220V Single To 3 Phase AT1-2200S | eBay

Complete Kit:2.2 KW Spindle Motor Water Cooled Controller & Water Pump &13 pcs ER20 CNC Set | eBay

80mm Spindle Bracket: 80mm Aluminum Mount Bracket Clamp+ 3Pc Screws 1.5kw 2.2kw CNC Engraving Motor | eBay

ER20 Collet Set or buy individually as needed: ER11 / ER16 / ER20 / ER25 / ER32 / ER40 Collet ( Individuals and Complete Set) | eBay

The pump can be any submersible aquarium pump plus plastic hose. The complete collet set is overkill as nearly all of them won't be used so I would leave that until I knew what is needed.

Spindle Rails: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/29453059...gAAOSwZPthiLw0

The spindle lift most probably only needs about 100mm full travel but The longer rails allow the bearings to be spaced more to make the lift board more rigid.

This is an alternative idea, it is the ball screw and rails in one unit and removes the problem of getting all three aligned: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40265255...EAAOSwiCdgCD-H

Ball Screw:sb1204 ball screw | eBay Pick your length.

DRO: Digital DRO Table LCD Readout Scale Vertical Horizontal For Milling Lathes | eBay

Thinking about it the VFD really needs to have a removeable control panel so it can be remote mounted above the table for on/off & speed control.

Amazing, thanks Chris!

Can't wait to get stuck into this build... BUT I promised myself I would finish my outfeed/MFT table before I start on yet another new project. Maybe I can be clever and integrate this into my outfeed bench :D

[QUOTE=Chris Parks;2267982]A few current links that look good

Ball Screw:sb1204 ball screw | eBay Pick your length.

Chris,

With the SFU1204 ball screw you are using I assume the router moves 4mm with each turn of the shaft (I am confused about pitch and lead). Do you find this is not too coarse ?. At my Woodwork club we have a Jess-Emm Router lift and it moves 2mm per shaft rotation and I find this is a good compromise between resolution and number of turns to raise the bit to change it.

I have seen on eBay/Aliexpress lead screws with 2mm lead but they all seem to have an 8mm dia shaft which may be a bit light weight.

Also how do you lock the shaft - is this above the table or do you have to reach under and tighten the nut of the ball screw shaft.

Trevor

Trevor, first up I don't own the RT so I have only used it a few times but a lot of people have used the table (hundreds) and no one has commented on the pitch as being too coarse but this may be because of the digital measurement for height, perhaps an oversize adjust wheel might slow things down if that can be fitted. I don't know how the shaft is locked because my suggestion for locking it was never made but here is what I envisaged. I was going to route a circular rebate in the table to with a central hole for the lifting shaft to come through and attach a circular disc to the shaft that fitted flush to the table top in the rebate. I was then going to use a small bridge clamp of aluminium that would clamp the disc to the floor of the rebate and the other leg to the top surface of the table top. The top on this one was 12mm phenolic so the rebate and disc would have most probably been 3mm or thereabouts.