Drilling Jig

This is so simple and obvious that I suspect most people would know it already, but for those that don't, here goes.
I had to make a dolly's high chair for granddaughter, but the principal is just as relevant for full size. The need was for four legs to splay evenly out from the centre at equal degrees. My drill press will adjust sideways but not forward, so I simply cut a piece of scrap timber the same size and shape as the bed of the drill press, and glued a strip of timber along one edge and another exactly the same on the under side on the side edge, if you can follow that. This meant that the material being drilled was tilted sideways and forward at the same angle. Drill two diametrically opposing corners and turn the guide over for the other two.
I hope I have made it clear, but really it's so simple I expect most will say, 'But of course!'

Dennis - it's not so obvious! I spent a good deal of time puzzling how to get the leg angles righ on my first Windsor style chair. (& got one off a bit!)

On the first few, I drilled the leg mortices by hand with a brace, sighting against a couple of bevel squares, as advocated by Michael Dunbar. Somewhere in a very, very old Fine Woodworking, I saw the answer to my prayers. The jig I have used ever since (pic) is a little modified from the original, but the principal is the same.
On full-size Windsors, you really want the back legs to splay more, both sideways and backwards, for stability. You also want the seat to tilt back a bit for comfortable sitting. To get the angles right, I draw diagonals from the centre of the leg mortice. The angle of the diagonal varies, and also the angle of the jig (set with a bit of 4 X 2, which the clamps stop from sliding back under pressure). About the only original contribution from me is to use a bit of that 'no-slip' matting under the seat to stop it from sliding when you bring the drill down.
Pics should explain all.......
Cheers,

Thanks Ian,
You are right about the back legs being different angle to the front,
but this is easily accommodated by putting a bit of extra tilting material under the edge. Anyway, your method seems good. I'll try it next time.
Dennis.

Thanks Ian and Dennis