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For the record, I haven't used the Triton template guides. I bought a couple of Milescraft bases which use bog standard Porter Cable guides.

Incra has exactly that fence. The only downside is that you need to keep moving it to either the router position or to the table saw position.

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Huh? The basic model has 810mm of travel so you've done something wrong.


Sounds like your table surface is not flat.


Nooooooooo. My gap is just big enough for a sheet of formica to slip...

Sure. I'll take some tonight.

Sorry to be clear, my set-up is just the table saw, not the combo.

Still want photies?

Depends. It's not difficult at all to install. You just need to read the instructions carefully and then re-read them to make sure you are not assuming too much.

I chose to limit my rip capacity...

Your shutter speed is not in sync with the cycle of the lights. If you guys are on 50Hz then you'll need to use a shutter speed of 1/100 but this is a bit slow for action photos.

Your workshop is...

With any router dovetail system you are limited by the size of the dovetail bits. In the case of Incra, you are able to cut tails that are significantly wider than the corresponding pins to give the...

"Professional Woodworking" aren't that professional if they are charging you what looks like more than ten times the cost of getting the XL version.

Give them the big fat hairy greasy finger and...

If you're getting the metric (I suggest this) LS-positioner then you'll need the Whiteside router bit set.

I guess you could install t-tracks. However I doubt you'll need to move your positioner that often unless you need the maximum depth offered by the Incra system. That being the case, it would...

The INCRA system is just that, you'll need a suitable router bit to make tenons. Probably easier on the table saw or just using a tenon saw.

There are many ways to make a tenon. You can even use a...

It will allow you use any width blade from 1/8" (3.2mm) and up but only in single passes.

Seriously though, if you don't have a router table then I suggest you invest in a decent box cutting set...

Are you saying that beyond the 81mm on the steel scale, it's just plastic?

If so, then think about rather using the Kreg tapes as they are metallic which might work out a bit better.

I've just...

Are you talking about the Lexan scales? Little plastic jobbies?

What about using a small clamp?

Or Pritt Sticky Stuff on one end to hold it in place.

Well for starters you can use it on your table saw to cut box joints using a special box cutting blade set. Perfectly flat bottoms (although I prefer more curvy ones myself).

On the router table...

Yeah I agree with this. It's pretty cool to say the least. I took a very long time to get mine working properly but I had to make some serious modifications to make the splitter system work. I didn't...

Haven't forgotten the photies Nathan but I've been off work with some nasty bug.

Any sled will be fine and it won't catch on anything. The positioner's base plate can actually be temporarily...

Most of the time you are keeping the wood that is between the fence and the blade so the kerf width is immaterial.

However for those thin rip cuts then yes you need always add the width of the...

I use the 32" (810mm) version on my cr@ppy Ryobi contractor saw and it's fantastic. The whole point of the Incra TS-LS is to take an otherwise under-specced or difficult to accurately measure table...

It would have nice to have the Incra fit the mitre slot but it does seem that you have a non-standard table saw. The manufactures will do anything to save a few cents.

Anyway, +1 for making your...

and also check arbor run-out on the table saw.

There's no way that 1/20th of a mm would cause this. If you are cross cutting 600mm panels, then yes.

I bet you can't even see this difference.

When you make cuts at 90 degrees, this is to accurately get the same length consistently, over and over. Some folks add MDF sub fences to act as zero clearance backer boards and you just need to...

For a second there, I wondered what 90 degrees was in Metric :U.

I did the same but bought the green metric ratchet inserts and tape.

Why don't you just download the manual for the Vernier Cursor?

It explains the process rather well.

Bought it at my local woodworking shop here in Johannesburg.

The plastic looks pretty strong and I was only thinking of flipping the Triton over when I needed to use the scroll saw. At any other given time the Triton would be in the upright position.

Thanks...

Hi folks.

Pity about today's play at the Gabba but hopefully the sun comes out tomorrow.

Anyway, I recently bought a Triton Oscillating Spindle Sander and I'm keen to mount it on a flip-top...

Yeah, the Whiteside metric combo is of very decent quality.

You can't go wrong.

Ah ok, makes sense now. Yes I don't want to be fiddling underneath to tighten the knobs.

Thanks again.

Fred you're right.

I took another look at my Positioner and I see that it actually has an inverted T-Track which should allow for the forward and backwards movement.

Thanks for pointing this...

I love multiple mounting positions...



Ok so maybe I'll install two short t-tracks that run parallel to the lead screw and then mount the positioner to a sub-base which will then attach to the...

To confirm, is the general consensus to take into account the thickness of the Wonder Fence when laying out the attachment holes for the Positioner?

In other words, would I add 85mm to the...

Firstly, it would appear that there are two JapanDaves?

Secondly, I asked Mark Meuller this very question and he emphatically said to stick to one standard.

<blush>

Yes thanks a lot. I should have just engaged my brain for a few seconds of course.

Great post Alan, thanks!

Wonderful design and I'm glad I bought it.

Any idea why INCRA suggests you install the mitre slider in the right hand mitre slot if your saw tilts to the right and vise versa for left tilting saws?

I can't see any application to tilt the...

Thanks Grahame.

Did you only use the table saw or also the router table?

If so, which method was easier or perhaps more accurate?

Nice Grahame!

Is there anything supposed to be on the second page as it's just blank?

I like that center key look. Correct me if I'm wrong but spiral bits on the router table will probably give one a cleaner cut?

Essentially you've chosen the incorrect thickness of material for template making. I think you have three options;

1. Thinner template material
2. Longer shank/cutter
3. Router collet extension...

Cheaper to just cut the new guide bush but this may mess with the concentricity (ap?) of the bush.

It does look a bit long hey? You do get longer bits but they are mostly made for Leigh Dovetail...

Tom, is there really a difference?

I mean if you have Metric templates and metric guide bushes but now want to use Imperial bits. If so then it's just a question of converting the Imperial bit...

Two ways;

1. Hold it up in front of you with the base facing down. Turn it clockwise. If it spirals like a drill bit then it's an up-cut. Drill bits are designed like up-cut spirals to eject the...

I'm sorry HeadScratcher but I agree with Harry. For what you are trying to do you should abandon the whole template idea and just use Pattern Bits instead. The point of using templates is that you...

Sorry one more thing Grahame. If I already own a Router LS Positioner system, would the iBox increase versatility or just be a duplication?

BTW, is it iBox or Ibox or IBox or IBOX?

I know which...

Thanks Grahame. It looks like I would be able to cut a box joint of say an inch wide by using just a normal 3.2mm (1/8) table saw blade?

Am I understanding this correctly?

Grahame, does this effectively replace the box joint template system on the LS Positioner Super System?

In other words, would getting both systems be superfluous?

Thanks.

Thanks mate!

Looks like I need to save for the HH version.