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dont even bother buying the angle bradder...tooooo many problems with them, you will only end up sending it back for repair..( nails keep jamming ) and they PASLODE will send it back saying we cant...

did'nt you read the back of the can....:o

our airless sprayers at full blast is 3000 + psi. the sprayer you have is for small jobs ( painting your trailer etc.....DO NOT USE IT TO PAINT YOUR WALLS.:oo:

get yourself a lambs wool roller...

metho based sealer...will dry very-very-very fast. 100 or more kids bedrooms, works like a treat everytime.

it seals water stains too:2tsup:

wattyl solagard...everthing you need to know is writtin on the back of the can..:2tsup:.

thats right on the money

it depends on what you are wanting to paint, some brands are better than others....as for Haymes paints i would'nt use their crap if they paid me ..( it is rubbish )....

good to hear all is well.....remember to use ONLY enamels, when next time they need painting at least you will be able to sand them smooth. also the paint build up wont be as thick as acrylic

2 coatings undercoat and 1 coating with enamel white....brush & small roller job:U

use the wattyl killrust line.....all enamel........never water based paints:oo:

there is NO TRICK.....get up on the bull nose veranda and kneel down with your paint brush....its that simple

the old veranda's are strong..unless your beams/posts are rotten..

DONT...

thats paint....wrong info you got there



everything you need is here
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=62034
:2tsup:

he has ripped you OFF...self prime is a lot of crap...if the painter wrote the quote with the specs that he was going to do, then he must do what you are paying him for....

i see this a lot within...

dulux acrylic sealer , and NEVER start any painting until the plasterer has finished...you can seal the plaster before any skirting and trim goes on...that will save a lot of time

12 weeks like i had posted in the last mention of solid plaster

paint your little hearts out...as long as your new plasterboard joins etc are dry and sanded off...and your happy with it, then get out the brush and roller and start painting the sealer on, after...

allow new unpainted surface to cure and dry for at least 12 weeks. adhesion problems occur if the correct sealer is not used. this can be attributed to poor troweling or the addition of air...

is the timber for interior or exterior.?

exterior always use a primer ...oil-based paints, oil based primer, acrylic primer under acrylic gloss or low sheen..even when the label says NO PRIMER...

white set ? are you talking solid plaster ? but plaster patches either an acrylic PSU, solver maxi prep, dulux 3 in 1 ...stick to a top shelf brand and label...dulux also have a 3 in 1 oil based...

woodland grey will cover with 2 coatings ... if you want to put a 3rd coat then just paint over the primed areas first then 2 coatings

i dont know why they call it woodland grey because it has a...

your local paint shop should have a sheen graph that will show what is what....and that depends on the paint brand

thanks for the answers and it looks like the ceilings are staying, but all the baltic pine lining boards on the walls are going...the walls will be plaster...i will post up a few pics of the tin...

i have had my eye on the old place for a few years..it came on the market so i grabbed it..

i

i'm a Sikkens fan myself...cost $$$$ but worth every cent

i have bought an old house that has pressed tin ceilings in the bedrooms/Hallway and in the lounge..the tin is in perfect condition as they were painted in enamel about 40 years ago, but the thing is...

once settled you should see around 30mm in a 10ltr high grade flat acrylic...i use the term "OIL" as that is the term we painters call it...if i were a chemist i would be able to say exactly what it...

if you have added water to thin the paint and then put the left over paint back in the can...yep it will go off. if you use paint that has gone off in a dampish room..expect mould..i have seen 1 room...

i use baileys ladders...have been for years, sized from 3' foot to 36' feet, all alloy easy to use and last for years

these little cracks usually form from hot days...nothing to worry about..all homes do it..when the colder weather arrives they just about all compress back together...the downfall is any filler you...

you should let the render dry for at least 2-3 months...seal and paint. you wont be able to stop any form of water from the outside of the wall with just paint...its like anything paint it once and...

i will check this out as i'm about to use tub n tile on a claw foot bath...but my question is did you mix the parts correct, also as you only did a section of the bath, maybe the smell is from what...

i'm the new guy here..i found this forum by mistake while looking for info on a project i'm working on, then seen the painting section ( thats what i do everyday as my job )..so i will be adding some...

now that is great . i am going to enjoy reading these even though my brain cells have been deleted over the years by lead paints.....lol:o

nice post

cheers

handsp77 has it right on the money...if your stained woodwork has varnish on it, and you paint it with a dark enamel, then any part that is in direct sunlight will blister...so the lighter the colour...

i'd be calling an electrician ....get it back into place, with the same screws etc attached and a couple of blobs of cornice adhesive onto the screws inside the ceiling, but still call an electrician

i'm gonna wait for the finish photos......Ahmen:2tsup:

well the first question is DO you want a high gloss finish ( enamel ) or a low gloss finish ( acrylic )

Enamel system, pink prime or white primer any bare timber patches or spots, putty any holes...

:o what is it Petrified wood ?

TWO skim coats AND a TOP coat?? ...YES

carefully use a quality paint stripper ....NEVER attempt to do that :oo:

i'm not going to have a running debate about a simple little ceiling, but between...

i only ever use the normal old base coat ( mixing it myself ) that way i get the texture that i need depending on the job i'm doing. giving it 2 layers..then back trowel after each layer to take any...

i use a 250 mm Hyde trowel :2tsup:....but thought a 100 maybe easier for a DIY.

and don't forget to paint on the sealer before the painting:p

wr board is easier to coat than villaboard. villaboard is the same as blotting paper

i would'nt use any fillers, as all fillers crack, replace the cover stripes would be better.
depending on the size of the gapes between the cement sheets...you can buy plastic PVC strips that go in...

paint a sealer of the filler spots...as plaster and other fillers are porous . or the glue from the wallpaper will soak in, "dry spots" i have never had to size with pre-glued wallpaper, just don't...

test it with a sharp trowel on the edge of the paint , work towards the paint edge and not away from it, if it wont move "leave it alone" another test is get some sticky tape..now with a razor make a...

depending on what is on the windows, sikkens supernatural is the best its a 2 part system with cetol HLS...it will cost you some $$$$$

DO NOT USE A VARNISH, but if you want to use a varnish go for...

your bathroom ceiling was painted with a acrylic ceiling white & was not sealed first

1. get yourself some base plaster - from your local plaster supplier
get a top-coat plaster also, ready...