Shaper Action AND Power Scraping.

[matthew_g]

Exactly what the title says. Unfortunately I never made it to the scraping classes, so I can't say if he is doing it right or wrong. But I did enjoy watching the project unfold. Plus, How can you go wrong with shaper action ??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jG5mOnjrd2Q

[welder]

Verry Funny I just watched the video and was about to post the link here but you beat me to it. He has a Renz scraper

[Stustoys]

While I've only watched about 15 seconds so far, isn't his shaper running backwards?

Stuart

[welder]

The shaper has two clapper boxes so it can cut either in the pull or push stroke

[Stustoys]

Going to have to have a closer look at the tomrrow on the big screen.

Stuart

p.s. sound sure helps

[neksmerj]

Where's part 2?

Ken

[Machtool]

Where's part 2? Ken

He only uploaded that one 15 hours ago. I'm sure that's a work in progress.

The Renz he has, he bought off Nick Mueller.

Regards Phil.

[simonl]

For someone who is mostly self taught, he seems to be doing OK. Well, that's from the POV of a novice like myself.

Simon

[RayG]

Thanks for posting that video, I'm pretty sure I met Stefan at Nick's place at one of his casting barbeques.. He does a nice job on that Straight edge.

Ray

[Anorak Bob]

Thank you for posting the link Matthew.

Stefan's comment about cold rolled steel bowing when it's been machined has me nervous. I don't mill much of the stuff but my plans are to make a new set of soft jaws from some 1020 for the whizzo Schaublin vice. The originals were hardened and ground but sadly only one accompanied the vice. They are not large jaws at 65 x 40 x 12 but the rear face of each jaw is machined to create a locating rib.

Any suggestions for overcoming the probable problem of distortion?

Bob.

[Stustoys]

Thank you for posting the link Matthew.

Stefan's comment about cold rolled steel bowing when it's been machined has me nervous. I don't mill much of the stuff but my plans are to make a new set of soft jaws from some 1020 for the whizzo Schaublin vice. The originals were hardened and ground but sadly only one accompanied the vice. They are not large jaws at 65 x 40 x 12 but the rear face of each jaw is machined to create a locating rib.

Any suggestions for overcoming the probable problem of distortion?

Bob.

Isn't most of the stress near the surface? So if you are machining it all over you'll be ok, if you have enough material to machine it two or three times.(leave it in BobL's furnace for a couple of cycles?)

Stuart

[RayG]

Thank you for posting the link Matthew.

Stefan's comment about cold rolled steel bowing when it's been machined has me nervous. I don't mill much of the stuff but my plans are to make a new set of soft jaws from some 1020 for the whizzo Schaublin vice. The originals were hardened and ground but sadly only one accompanied the vice. They are not large jaws at 65 x 40 x 12 but the rear face of each jaw is machined to create a locating rib.

Any suggestions for overcoming the probable problem of distortion?

Bob.

It bows and twists all over the place.... not much you can do about it... hammer it flat later.


Just kidding ...

Actually it doesn't matter, machine it in stages, rough machine it oversize and it will move and bend somewhat, then finish machine to final size.
But if you are hardening the jaws, the heat treatment will cause it to move about as well, so leave enough for grinding.

Ray

[brendanh]

excuses the ignorance here, im somewhat new to machining, but why wouldn't you just mill it with a face mill/fly cutter? the hand scraping i can see being a worth while task, but on the machine im just seeing it as a big waste of space?

[Stustoys]

excuses the ignorance here, im somewhat new to machining, but why wouldn't you just mill it with a face mill/fly cutter? the hand scraping i can see being a worth while task, but on the machine im just seeing it as a big waste of space?

Blasphemer Get him boys!!!!!!!!!

Sure you could use a mill, for this job I don't really see much advantage to using a shaper.. well other than being way cooler
The tooling is likely to be cheaper and the surface finish likely to be better from the shaper but certainly not guaranteed. Either will get you "close enough" especially if you have a power scraper.

Stuart

[Anorak Bob]

Stu and Ray,

My plan was to bolt the probably 200mm long (two jaws' worth) 12 x 50 flat bar directly to the mill's table with a pair of M10 countersunk screws and mill the rear ribbed side only. I do need to reduce the width of the bar down to just under 40mm and chamfer one long edge. I might be able to surface grind the jaws on the T and C if the distortion isn't excessive and there's always the Sandvik for a bit of localised scraping.

I will see how I go with soft jaws before I get too ambitious thinking about hard jaws.

BT