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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
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    Default Banksia box - WIP

    Started to make a box from the coast banksia that I showed in the timber forum.

    Pic. 1. Selected the pieces to use and dressed a face and an edge on each piece. Labeled them.

    Pic. 2. Bandsawed to little over finished thickness. This will leave me with some nice pieves of veneer for another job.

    Pic. 3. Oops! When I resawed the back & front of the lid frame, a knot that I had planned to use as a feature turned out to be loose. I still want to use it, so it will have to be fixed.

    Pic. 4 The myrtle burl that I want to use as the lid panel also has some holes that need filling, so I'll do them all with casting resin. This stuff is very thin & runny, so I've stuck some bits of scrap to the underside using hot-melt glue. This should stop it leaking through.

    Pic. 5. On the other side, I've built 'dams' around the holes so I can over fill them with resin, as it does shrink a bit as it sets. Built similar dams on the lid frame pieces.
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    East Bentleigh, Melbourne, Vic
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    Default

    Hi Alex,

    Nice little trick with the hol melt glue dams - looks green to me

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
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    Default

    Pic. 1. The casting resin I'm using is Araldite M. It needs to be used in pretty exact proportions, so I measured it out, and also added some umber pigment to darken it. Normally it sets clear and colourless. As you can see, it's several years past its use-by date, so I hope it still works OK. This stuff sticks like ##### to a blanket, so wear gloves and put a plastic sheet under it.

    Pic. 2. Filled up all the holes with resin. Hit the larger ones with the hot air gun to bring any bubbles to the surface. As the resin flows into the holes, keep topping it up. Seem to have sprung a slight leak in the hole on the left. Bugger!

    This stuff takes a couple of days to set completely, so put it aside and continue work on the carcase. Dress, size and square up the carcase pieces & mark out the dovetails.

    Pic. 3. Start cutting the dovetails. I'm using half-blind DTs, and I'll put a separate thread up on how I do it if anyone's interested. Finished the pins on the front & back.
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  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    1,652

    Default

    Alex, this would be a good post in the Box Making forum. I'll post a link there if you don't mind.

    Can you do a close-up on the "dams"? I can't quite see what you are referring to in the pic.:confused:

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Sydney
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    Default

    Can't wait to see it finished Alex.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Rosebud Vict AUS
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    Default

    Alex, can't wait to see finished box! Should be a winner of many greenies! You clearly have joined the ranks (or perhaps you are a foundation member) of the "stare at the timber" club! Look at the timber laid out in a possible order, re arrange five times, think about how it all goes together, where the defects are relative to the joints, then pray like hell that it all turns out to plan. looking good. Why does epoxy with wood shavings fill take so much longer to go off than just the epoxy?
    Jacko

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    1,024

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS
    I'm using half-blind DTs, and I'll put a separate thread up on how I do it if anyone's interested.
    Yes please, I'm interested

    woodbe.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Default

    Some nicely grained timber there Alex . Can't wait to see it finished . No doubt it will something extra special
    Peter
    I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Laurieton
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    Default

    Coming along nicely Alex. I do believe that I recognise that burl
    Bob

    "If a man is after money, he's money mad; if he keeps it, he's a capitalist; if he spends it, he's a playboy; if he doesn't get it, he's a never-do-well; if he doesn't try to get it, he lacks ambition. If he gets it without working for it; he's a parasite; and if he accumulates it after a life time of hard work, people call him a fool who never got anything out of life."
    - Vic Oliver

  11. #10
    Join Date
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    Default

    Looking forward to this, Alex.

    Where did you source the epoxy? Today I did the same as you with some clear Araldite (a pretty expensive way to do it I think).
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
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    Bob, you do indeed recognise it - it came from Oges at Wongo's BBQ.

    Zenwood, the casting resin came from Meury Enterprises in western Sydney. Wasn't cheap - about $100 quite a few years ago - but I believe you can buy casting resin cheaper at Bunnings, although I haven't gone looking for it there.
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  13. #12
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    Aug 2005
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    Gladstone, QLD
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    Default

    This is going to be one very nice box. Looking forward to the WIP pics

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
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    2,261

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS
    Bob, you do indeed recognise it - it came from Oges at Wongo's BBQ.
    Am interested to see how it turns out, so I can see what to do with the piece I have here.
    Brett

    Only Robinson Crusoe could get everything done by Friday!

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Aberglassly,NSW
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    Hi Alex

    Looking good real keen to see the finished box nice grain in the timber

    Cheers sam

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    East Bentleigh, Melbourne, Vic
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    Alex, I for one would definitely be interested to read how you make half blind dovvies.

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