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Thread: MBS 300 Issues
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31st October 2009, 03:18 PM #1
MBS 300 Issues
Hi,
I have managed to get my MBS300 together. The instructions are the worst kind of crap, but I managed to get it done. But my problems are ...
The SUVA guard is a pain in the back side and actually makes the table saw fairly intimidating and scary to use for ripping narrower boards. I can't fit a push stick in. What are others doing with their SUVA guards. (Please don't say your threw it in the bin!)
Both extension wings are not completely flush with the main table. I can get both flush at the front and back of the saw, but in the middle it dips down between 1/4 and 1/2 mm. This does not seem right? Does anyone else have a similar experience?
What I will say about the MBS 300 is its so quiet and very smooth to operate even with the above problems. I have already contacted WWWH about the table flatness, I was just curious to know if I was expecting too much.
Thanks
Jason
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31st October 2009 03:18 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st October 2009, 03:37 PM #2
The 'sag' is worse on the suva guard side, so I am wondering whether I need to remove the suva guard and realign that wing again and see if I can reduce it.
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31st October 2009, 08:28 PM #3
I think the SUVA is causing some of the problems I redid it and without the suva attached its pretty close to flat (still 1/4 mm out at the joint but overall pretty flat). With attached it does cause it to dip a little. For now I have a multi stand supporting the suva, so the weight of the suva is not on the extension wing.
Otherwise I am having more luck with the saw. I have been doing some rip cuts in MDF for a fence for my V27 mitre guage. I did it without the SUVA guard but with the riving knife intact. If I do it carefully with the aid of a push stick it goes ok. I think I will make myself a much bigger push stick. I have seen them made out of a 4x2 with a handle screwed on - must unpack that darn band saw
Anyway, I think even if I am told that this small tolerance is to be expected I am unsure if it will even make a difference anyway. The main table is super flat. And both extensions are within a mm of the same, and fall away from the main table anyway.
Maybe I am just so over this tool buying experience I don't want to have to bother chasing new extensions!!!
Anyway, I think the SUVA is good for cross cuts, and wide rips. I will use a large push block and feather boards and no guard for thinner rips.
Comments?
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31st October 2009, 08:35 PM #4
This is the push block I was referring to:
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...-pushblock.pdf
A list of 11 plans that I have found interesting too
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...om-table-saws/
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1st November 2009, 08:22 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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I finished putting mine together about 2 weeks ago.
Agree that the instructions are the worst kind of crap available.
Mine came from Carbatec, no problems with the suva guard or table top alignments, all spot on.
Can't help with the ripping of thin material, haven't done that yet, though the shape of my guard is different.
Attachment 120872
From what I have heard from other owners of this saw, I don't think you are expecting too much, I would have been disappointed if mine wasn't flat
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1st November 2009, 08:41 PM #6
Hi,
I am chasing up WWWH possibly for some new wings. I think this can happen even to the most expensive saws. I know the wood whisperer bought a new powermatic and the top was warped, so...
Anyway so far I have been using a FatMax level for testing the flatness I don't have a proper straight edge. I am thinking I probably need to splurge and go and get one so I can verify the flatness of the main table. Hopefully its just the wings, but its not that easy to tell with just the fat max. Using the fat max all the main dimensions (including corner to corner) looks good. And I can see the gap underneath only on the wings.
In your case I would suggest that you would have issues with narrow boards and your suva too. I have been able to rip wider boards with the suva no problems. As long as I have say 10cm between the suva and the fence.
I had my first kick back today, luckily I was using a push stick and kept a firm hold on the mdf and kneeded the off switch. But even though nothing bad happened I could feel the potential transferred from the saw to my hand holding the stick!
My JET 14" bandsaw by comparison has been an absolute joy. The instructions were incredibly clear and attention to details and the general feel of the machine well and truly takes my breath away - I can see why everyone raves about JET machinery!
If I can get these issues resolved with the MBS I think I will be well pleased with it too!
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1st November 2009, 09:01 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Cutting thin strips
I have found this the best way to rip long thin strips on a table saw, thanks to niki
regards,
Jill
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2nd November 2009, 02:36 PM #8
Hi Pellcorp,
I have had an MBS300 for a few years now, when I fitted the wing on the RHS I can remember having a little bit of a gap under the straight edge when I checked ( 4 thou' , from memory) in the worst spot.
I didnt fit the LHS one as I have the sliding table.
Have you checked if there is any burr's or a lump of paint on the mating surfaces that is causing misalignment. I would give both surfaces a light rub with a file to see if there is any high spots.
Sounds wrong that the suva guard is causing the wing to sag, mine would'nt sag with that weight, it's all very solid once bolted up. Maybe a high spot on one of the mating surfaces is causing you problems.
I upgraded from a Triton 2000 to the MBS300, I couldnt believe the difference between the two, it was a huge step up.
Good luck.
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2nd November 2009, 07:35 PM #9
Hi All,
Well I got myself a Veritas 36" steel straight edge and a set of feeler gauges. $140 all told
However I also took the saw back to square one and on the right hand extension I shimmed it with a single sheet of paper under the bolt in the middle. I spent a lot of time lining up the extension to get it as close as possible. My dead blow hammer I bought from WWWH at the open day was immensely useful here.
I am ecstatic to report that the wing is less than .002" on the far right and a little over .006" at the joint. All with 1 sheet of paper! The rest of the table has some low spots but none over .007" and mostly more around the .005" and less. In most cases I could not even get a .0015" under the straight edge.
For clarification even before I adjusted this the wing was actually only out .011" anyway! I obviously can't tell the difference between 0.5 mm (.020") and .279 mm (.011"). It was nowhere near 1mm out!
I don't have a perfectly level floor either and so some of these .007" low spots I am sure are possibly due to that. I shimmed the table saw as best as I could so that the bubble is well and truly between those little lines on the FatMax, but I can't be stuffed getting it exactly in the middle of those lines!
After reading what I wrote I think the $140 was well spent, has given me peace of mind. The Table Saw Book by Kelly Mehler provided directions on shimming. I have also read in many posts here and other forums that a lot of people use aluminium cans too.
So I think its safe to say I overreacted
Happy wood working everyone.
Cheers
JasonLast edited by pellcorp; 2nd November 2009 at 07:37 PM. Reason: sentence fixes!
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2nd November 2009, 07:43 PM #10
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2nd November 2009, 07:46 PM #11
Good to hear you have it sorted,
happy woodworking
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