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  1. #46
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    See how easy it was? You have already worked out that if the diametre of these pieces of wood were a bit larger it would also work a bit better. Now, if you cut off the last couple of cm of the chucked piece of wood and put that piece on the point of the tailstock all your problems of a rough back end are solved.

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  3. #47
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    Jul 2009
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    Hi Russel,

    You're on your way! The tools you have will be fine. Just get yourself a bit more honing compound from somewhere. If all else fails I can sell you a canister of the stuff I use for $10.00 plus postage. It should last you years.

    Your golf ball cover removal strategy looks good too. Tightening the grip of the chuck should solve the cover damage but its not that critical anyway as the face is what you and others will be looking at.

    However I couldn't see a hole drilled. Trust me on this one... Drill the hole!. You need a handle on that ball to hold onto and to keep it from turning in your grip while you carve. The hole will provide an anchor point for the handle during your carving process and a place to fix a base later when its done.

    Go back to the start of this thread and work your way through the step by step and see how you go. If you have any problems post them and we'll take it from there.

    Good luck and we'll await the outcome with some interest.

    I know I've been saying this for a while now, but I really will try to get the eye WIP up in the next day or so.

  4. #48
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    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest View Post
    Now, if you cut off the last couple of cm of the chucked piece of wood and put that piece on the point of the tailstock all your problems of a rough back end are solved.
    Umm if I follow what you're saying correctly, the rough part actually came from the wood, not the tailstock. I think the ball caught somewhere at sat still, while the chuck spun, causing the damage.

    You're right Whittling, no hole. WIll make sure I do one before I start carving.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  5. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo View Post
    Umm if I follow what you're saying correctly, the rough part actually came from the wood, not the tailstock. I think the ball caught somewhere at sat still, while the chuck spun, causing the damage.

    You're right Whittling, no hole. WIll make sure I do one before I start carving.

    Russell.
    You are right, that's what caused it. If you put together what I said and what Whittling said, you have the full answer. Two wooden jam pieces will hold the ball tight enough so it does not slip when you apply the cutting force. Of course, all this works better if you have a live tailstock (maybe I assumed, again!), a dead tailstock might partially lock the ball and produce what you experienced.

  6. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest View Post
    You are right, that's what caused it. If you put together what I said and what Whittling said, you have the full answer. Two wooden jam pieces will hold the ball tight enough so it does not slip when you apply the cutting force. Of course, all this works better if you have a live tailstock (maybe I assumed, again!), a dead tailstock might partially lock the ball and produce what you experienced.
    More likely my poor end grain turning skills (i.e. never done it before). The smooth wood on smooth plastic doesn't help. I was wondering if something like router mat material should be glued into the end of the chuck to both cushion and grip the ball better?

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  7. #51
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    Jul 2009
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    Waitpinga
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    Default Golf Ball Eyes WIP

    As promised here's the WIP on how I do eyes. This applies generally to all eyes I carve at this scale which includes most walking sticks and staves. (Once you start to approach eye balls 10mm or more across then I use a different technique.)

    Anyway, the first image shows the face roughed out and the eye area prepared. This 'scooping' shape is hard to do with a blade so I use a Phiel 11/10 gouge to prepare this area when I can.

    Second image shows the eye outline drawn.

    Third image shows the result of a stop cut along the top line of the eye and a second cut on an angle to the first, resulting in a wedge-shaped section being removed. I couldn't figure out how to do this and photograph it at the same time... sorry. I think its clear enough what was done anyway.

    4th image... notice that the top lid line has been re-drawn.

    5th image.. taken holding the golf ball stick between my knees, knife in right hand and camera in left... whew! Here you can see the stop cutting following the upper lid line. Straight in and follow the line all the way around. Repeat with the bottom lid line.

    I'll continue this in the next post as I have problems if I try to up load too many photos in one post.

  8. #52
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    Default Golf Ball Eye WIP con't.

    6th image shows what is essentially a chip carving cut to the inside corner of the eye. The stop cuts you put in in step 5 act as two sides of the 3-sided chip cut.

    7th image shows the chip cut to the outside corner of the eye. Notice that the ball has been rotated 180 degrees to access the other side of the eye. A lot of the control I have over the ball is due to the handle which, although it cannot be seen in the photos, is being firmly gripped between my fingers on the underside of the ball.

    8th shot shows both chip cuts complete and the form of the eye ball and lids is now evident... A little more work needed though...

    9th and 10th shots show the shaping of the eye ball under the top and bottom lids. Access is the same as with the chip cuts.

    From here you refine the rounded shape of the eye ball in small cuts designed to give as spherical a shap as you can manage. Tiny and often is the way here. Try to smooth out your tool marks as best you can. (You can't sand this stuff...)

    Final post coming up...

  9. #53
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    Default Golf Ball Eye WIP final

    Final details for the eye...

    11th and 12th shots show the outside and inside tear ducts being cut in

    13th shot shows the eyes complete except for the irises. These can be cut in in a variety of ways and play a very big part in the overall expression of the finished piece. If you know exactly where you are going and what effect you are after, you can cut them in at this stage. Otherwise you might find it easier to wait until the mouth is done and try to put them in so that they reinforce the expression you are trying to achieve.

    Finally, the 14th image is one of the final stage of the carving. I was after shock/surprise. Note how cutting the irises in small and centrally helps reinforce the expression that the mouth has given the overall face. Other lines around and under the eyes and mouth are cut in either with a knife or a V tool as is the hair and eyebrows.

    Well guys.. that's it. Now its your turn. Let's see what different artists can do with this. Post your results here and we can all learn from each other.

  10. #54
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    Very good WIP, Whittling. Well worth the wait.
    Your way is basically the way I have been trying to approach the ball, but the small size was making it hard for me.
    I have also found that there is a big difference in hardness between golf balls. Some seem to be to hard to worry about.

    Thanks for the WIP.
    Terry

  11. #55
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    Thanks for the eye WIP, I really need it as you can see in my warts & all first attempt below. Here's my thoughts on the process and result.

    1. When I heard "rubber" I assumed eraser type rubber. This stuff (at least this first one I did) is almost like Pumice stone. Quite hard and gritty. Given Terry's comment above, maybe this wasn't so good a starter ball. Also the stuff sticks to everything like a magnet due to static electricity. Makes cleanup rather difficult.

    1a. I tried using it mounted on the dowel, but it was just too awkward, so I quickly discarded that and did the whole thing bare-handed, commando style Much easier. Guess I'd better find that glove quick.

    2. I used basically my larger chip carving knife for the whole thing except the hair (V-Gouge) and a little under the nose (U-gouge for nostrils). Quite similar to chip carving for a fair bit of the work, although it had some limitations. And just like chip carving, ya gotta watch leaving tool marks!! Doing some of the concave cuts with the chip carving knife wasn't such a good idea though, as it can't turn an inside curve very well.

    3. Eyes are bad, Mouth is bad. Only feature I was trying for was a Hatchet nose. Sort of got there. The rest was pot luck.

    4. I can't paint I have shakey hands at the best of times.

    5. The whole thing lacks character. It just seems rather bland to me. I guess my family's round of enthusiastic indifference didn't exactly encourage me. When my son first saw it before it was painted, he thought it was a flower! I had to point out the face to him . I know, probably being too harsh, first attempt & all.

    So, anything obvious I should work on improving (apart from everything of course)? Obviously the eyes. Whittling, you've been so helpful already, but any chance on a WIP on the mouth some time? Or point me in the direction of some instruction? Maybe those caricature books you mentioned? I think I need some more character lines as well.

    I guess I just have to pretend I need to get to Carnegie Hall, and practice, practice, practice.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  12. #56
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    Apr 2009
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    lismore nsw
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    Great work schaff ,don`t look nuffin like a stunned mullet to me all looks pretty cool and happy , which is a great way to be for somthin that`s been wacked around it`s whole life you see what you see,where as whittlings shows a more tortured version ,me ,i`ll go the happy face (mullet ) anytime good stuff danny

  13. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by schaf View Post
    I have also found that there is a big difference in hardness between golf balls. Some seem to be to hard to worry about.
    You're right Terry. Golf balls do vary in hardness and some have that 'grittiness that Russell was talking about, but the worst of them are certainly no harder to carve than most euclypts, and most are on a par with the softest woods. Also no grain to worry about and they hold fine detail well. When carving at this scale, I use the same techniques and tools regardless of material. Golf balls to walking sticks I find its all about tool control. The harder the substance, the more force is needed, the more your technique needs to be under your control. Its the loss of control that gets that red stuff all over your work.

    Where most people struggle with golf balls is that they don't 'scrape' like wood. Your cuts have to be clean and precice. If you try to scrape or dig with you blade you just get a crumbelly mess. They can't be sanded either, which means that all the convex shapes (nose, cheeks, mouth mound etc) have to be made up of hundreds of small facets. The smaller you make these facets the smoother the finished result will look, but it takes time and a steady hand. Its always back to practice.

  14. #58
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    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hervey Bay
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    G'day Whittling and Everyone

    Just back from NZ Sunday. Played plenty of golf (badly) and created many balls suitable for carving, but did not get to carve any.

    Whittling, your WIP is awesome. I really appreciate the time and effort you have gone to to put this together. The images and instruction are great.

    I will get stuck in tonight and see if I can create something that reasonably resembles one of your trolls. Will post the results, hopefully showing some improvement on the last effort.

    Cheers

    Grant

  15. #59
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    No worries Grant,

    Looking forward to seeing the results.

  16. #60
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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Owner/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_filelist.xml"><link rel="Edit-Time-Data" href="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Owner/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_editdata.mso"><!--[if !mso]> <style> v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <woNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style> G'day Whittling

    Here is my latest effort. Only a blank expression at this stage while I try to master the eyes.<!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shapetype id="_x0000_t75" coordsize="21600,21600" o:spt="75" oreferrelative="t" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" filled="f" stroked="f"> <v:stroke joinstyle="miter"/> <v:formulas> <v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"/> <v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"/> <v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"/> <v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"/> <v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"/> <v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"/> <v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"/> <v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"/> <v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"/> <v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"/> <v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"/> <v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"/> </v:formulas> <vath o:extrusionok="f" gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect"/> <o:lock v:ext="edit" aspectratio="t"/> </v:shapetype><v:shape id="_x0000_i1025" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" style='12pt; 15.75pt'> <v:imagedata src="file:///C:/DOCUME~1/Owner/LOCALS~1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_image001.gif" o:href="http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/standard/confused.gif"/> </v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]-->

    I still struggled with the eyes. I found getting the stop cut for the eyes quite difficult to do. I am wondering if I may be making the initial hollow for the eyes too deep. My cuts near the nose were not neat and tended be ragged.

    Back to the drawing board as they say.

    Thanks again for the WIP. It is really helping me a lot, and I agree that it will take a bit of practice.

    Cheers

    Grant<!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1026" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" style='12pt;12pt'> <v:imagedata src="file:///C:/DOCUME~1/Owner/LOCALS~1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_image002.gif" o:href="http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/smile.gif"/> </v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]-->

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