Eureka Canoe

[NCArcher]

I am at about the same stage as MAL55 and was wondering about wire size. I started with # 12 USG and decided that it would be too big to push down and tape over. So I changed to .042 mil SS safety lock wire. I didn't see any wire size recomendation in the instructions. What size would you use?

Robert

1.3mm, which is just under 1/16"

MIK

For our metricly challenged friends across the pond 1.3mm is #16 AWG.

[Boatmik]

Thankyou NCArcher so much for that conversion ... I could have found it but am flat out at the moment.

Cheers
MIK

[arbordg]

I have a metric tape measure. I have a combo metric/imperial tape measure. I have a fancy construction calculator that converts either way.

The thing that I use most often is a standard cheap little calculator and the knowledge that 1 inch = 25.4 mm. That one memorized conversion number allows me to do most things in my head. The calculator is for backup. Then a metric tape measure completes the task.

Metric tape measures are available at Duckworks. Very good brand, quite reasonably priced:

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/tools/measure/index.htm



"The metric system did not really catch on in the States, unless you count the increasing popularity of the nine-millimeter bullet" -- Dave Barry

"Drugs have taught an entire generation of Americans the metric system" -- P.J. O' Rourke

[mal55]

The thing that I use most often is a standard cheap little calculator and the knowledge that 1 inch = 25.4 mm. That one memorized conversion number allows me to do most things in my head. The calculator is for backup.

Hi,
I'm an Industrial Technology teacher and am finding it harder and harder to convince the students to have a general knowledge of those sorts of conversions. We find some workshop drawings on the internet and where the dimensions are imperial, the students have no idea what to do with them. All our workshop dimensions are in milimetres but the maths dept use centimetres. Makes interesting marking out for projects. Sometimes the mobile phone has to come out to use the calculator for some simple calculations.
Even the formulars for circumference of a circle etc don't seem to be remembered.
I must be getting too old. I remember when Australia changed from the imperial measument system to the metric system in 1973. My final year school geometrical drawing exam dimensions were imperial and the next year they were converted to metric.

Oh Well, give up teaching, start building boats. I'm enjoying building this canoe (thanks Michael) and some of my students keep asking how its going and ask to see the photos of where I'm up to.

Malcolm

[Boatmik]

Howdy Mal,

Thanks for the contribution!!!

Just want to make a comment - I know you are not meaning it ... but some people reading might think they can use a calculator to do the conversion.

Using a calculator is fine for working out the dimensions of timber .. but has real problems when the distances are longer.

Use a calculator for working out timber sizes - excellent. Or even something like the rudder or centreboard or tiller it is OK

But when parts are long or have lots of measurements the tape measure must be used. One chap used conversions and found out his mast ended up leaning forward. Because the position of the bulkhead tops were out a little bit and got worse from the back of the boat forward.

It wasn't a big problem to fix .. but caused a lot of worry for him and me while we worked out what happened. The solution was easy after we worked out the problem but the boat might look a little bit strange ... like the Ettamolonga (or whatever it is) Pub!

I think it will be OK ... but avoid the risk and use a tape measure for most things!!!!

Best wishes
Michael

[mal55]

Howdy Mal,


Just want to make a comment - I know you are not meaning it ... but some people reading might think they can use a calculator to do the conversion.

Using a calculator is fine for working out the dimensions of timber .. but has real problems when the distances are longer.

Michael

Thanks Michael,
The point I was trying to make was that sometimes the students don't appreciate the bank of general purpose knowledge that "arbordg" was talking about. (ie 1" = 25.4mm) When you ask, they look at you blankly. They just want to get in and get the job done. In some cases, the faster the better. This is where I have been able to relay my experiences with the canoe building about taking it slowly and carefully so the thing looks like a canoe and performs like a canoe should when I'm finished. After spending $400, I want more than a few pieces of ply joined together.

By the way Michael, it is the Ettamogah Pub, and it is an hour down the road. For the overseas subscribers, the pub Michael mentioned is a funny shaped building (nothing is square) made famous in a series of cartoons. ( hyperlink if interested http://www.aussieworld.com.au/web/ettamogah-pub.html)
Thanks
Malcolm

[Boatmik]

Howdy Malcolm,

I 100% agree! My comments were for people who might read this thread a month or five years from now. Just have to cover those particular bases!

Best wishes
Michael

[mal55]

I 100% agree! My comments were for people who might read this thread a month or five years from now. Just have to cover those particular bases!

Thanks Michael.
Just about finished tightening the twists. I have to fix a couple of, lets call them "learning experiences" (you can tell I'm a teacher). My bilge panels are a couple of milimeters longer than the side panels after tightening the twitches. I can fix that easily so that I have a nice even curve from the sterns to the base panel. I may be pedantic or I may have been a bit close to the lines with my cutting out of the pieces.
I have identified a couple of things (for me) to watch out for shoud I be doing another one. There is the strong possibility of that next year with some of my students. I will be in touch if they are still interested.

With the canoe actually looking like a canoe, I must say that I am very impressed with the lines and look of the (almost) finished project. You have done a good job. Thanks.

Due to my commitments at school over the next 7 weeks, that translates into no free weekends untill school holidays start (12/12) not much will be happening. I do plan to have the bulkhead and deck cutout and ready and the spacer blocks prepared though.

Malcolm

[mal55]

Hi,
I've finished tightening all the stitching on my canoe and was wondering if I run masking tape 30mm away from the joins to give a "path" for the fibreglass tape. Is it necessary? I guess the answer is that it depends on how careful the taping is and avoiding runs.
I have precoated the inside, with bote cote epoxy, so should the joins be sanded back before applying the tape?
I wont be glass taping until school finishes in 5 weeks (give me plenty of time to do it and not try to fit it in after school. no free weekends) so in the meantime I will be preparing the bulkheads and decks.

Malcolm

[b.o.a.t.]

Hi,
I have precoated the inside, with bote cote epoxy, so should the joins be sanded back before applying the tape?
Malcolm

G'day Malcom
cured epoxy has to be keyed for the next layer of -anything- to stick to it.
Did you pre-coat to the edges of the panels?
If so, yes, the joins will need to be sanded
In fact, the whole inside will need to be sanded before you can paint it.
cheers
Alan J

[Jimegret]

Hi All,
I'm psyching myself up for my first boat build and have been drawn to the clean lines of the Eureka 15. I feel limited by space and means to having just the one boat so I'd want it to be fairly multi-purpose. One thing I would like is to use a trolling motor sometimes. My big question is has anybody cut the stern off their Eureka and fitted a transom?
Jim

[Boatmik]

Are you going to paddle her as well?

Even a tiny trolling motor would push her along at a good rate. There might be two alternatives.

Slinging the motor over the side of the boat near the stern.

Using a bigger trolling motor and making up an outrigger hull. This would allow the motor to be attached to the rear crossbeam adjacent to the hull which might be a lot more ergonomic and provide a REALLY stable fishing platform. Motor could be a bit heavier for more speed.

(Actually just thought ... be sensible to have the battery strapped down in the middle of the boat BEFORE the trolling motor goes on ... the EUREKA is VERY light)

[Boatmik]

Howdy AJ,

Meant to compliment you on your new Avatar with the bigger sail.

Michael

[b.o.a.t.]

LOL MIK.
Have finished the painting now so my avatar will perform even better

[Jimegret]

Thanks Michael for those suggestions.
Jim