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Thread: Eureka Canoe

  1. #511
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    Howdy GDF,

    With Canoes - to balance the weight and provide legroom for the front seat the seats are not symmetrical.

    So the front seat is closer to the middle of the boat than the back one.

    When paddling singlehanded it makes the best sense to turn the boat around the other way so you sit in what was the front seat but face the other way.

    This keeps a single paddler's weight toward the middle a bit better. Not ideal, but better.

    Michael

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  3. #512
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    Michael

    I went out the other day with a mate, a combined weight of about 200kgs and apart from some moments where we wobbled, the canoe went very well, even after a few beers, we still didn't fall out. (not something i will do to often)

    I took it to a BBQ on the banks of the Murray yesterday with a group from work and they were all impressed with it, two rather large blokes went out in it and yes they tipped over in the middle of the river, quite humourous, they actually used it as a flotation device to get back to shore, so the canoe copped a hiding.

    There was another fellow from a canoe club who was very impressed with the design. so ticks all round.

    I have decided to attach an outrigger to it as I would love to fish comfortably without worrying about tipping and loosing all the gear.

    Whish in turn requires a trolling motor, ( are these the electric motors???)

    In regards to the outrigger is it a single one or double??? all I can recall about outriggers is seeing them on Hawawii 5 O... Obviously I get them through you.

    One last comment, I saw in a camping store the other day a plastic chair which has a folding back seat, this can be attached to the seat without any problems from what i can see, it would make it all so much comfortable. do you foresee any problems with this???

    Cheers
    Graham
    whale oil beef hooked

  4. #513
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    Howdy Graham,

    A seat with a back can be problem with a canoe ... it holds the upper body too rigid so if the canoe heels your upper body follows the heel rather than tries to balance by leaning the other way.

    The trolling motor is a good choice .. put the batteries down in the middle of the canoe and strap them down.

    The outriggers are a double but you just need to make one hull and eliminate the crossbeams on the opposite side of the hull. You will still need a light tie piece to hold the two ends of the crossbeams on the non outrigger hull side to make everything work ok.

    Hope this helps
    Michael

  5. #514
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Burlington, North Caroliona, USA
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    Hi folks,

    I just thought I would pop in and make a progress report. I started my canoe early last fall. A dose of "life" slowed my progress over the winter. Now that it is spring and I am itching to hit the water and fish, It has moved back to a high priority project.

    Photos of the build progress can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/2925068...7606924921498/









    I am wondering, do I "really" need that center cross brace? or perhaps some knees would suffice. It might make it easier to move about in the boat if the center cross brace were not there...

    Cheers, Tom

  6. #515
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    Looking really good Tom....
    I really will have to get stuck into mine once this kayak is done.

    The cross-brace is supposedly called a 'portage yoke' for carrying the boat 1-up.
    Also useful for tying stuff to so it doesn't drift off after a dunking. Don't know how
    essential it is to Eureka's structure, so I'll not comment on that. You will
    effectively have two yokes with the outrigger attached. Three, if you leave the
    centre one fixed in place.

    I had a boat with two yokes many years ago, about 1.2M apart, the forward one
    located just behind the forward seat. 2 yokes actually made the boat more user-
    friendly than a single yoke.
    Excellent for securing a load between them.
    1-up, the aft yoke was the best place to paddle the boat from.
    Or rest feet on it & lay back onto the afterdeck. (Seats need to be high-set to do
    this - mine hung about 3" from the inwales.) A recliner seat back could be clipped
    to the forward yoke to do same.
    The aft yoke was also great to brace against whilst kneeling to deal with a fish or
    crab net in the centre section. Also provided a safe place to climb to if the crab got
    loose. (Look up Queensland Mud Crab for what I mean... )
    Moving around was rarely necessary except to change paddling position, & was
    easy... with practice, remembering to do everything symmetrically along the centre-
    line...

    cheers
    AJ

  7. #516
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    Howdy Tom,

    I've always drawn boats with a centre or offcentre spreader, but maybe that is a prejudice rather than based on firm fact.

    I If you grab either side and give it really good squeeze to push the sides together ... what happens? How much does it move - measure please? I suppose there is some minor risk of major damage if it gets caught between too larger boats - where a strut would take very high loads without giving up the ghost.

    Sometimes it is useful for carrying the boat securing gear or providing a panic bar for "live cargo".

    Still thinking about this, but if you give me an idea of the deflection measurement when you give it a good manly squeeze that will be some indication.

    Cheers
    MIK

  8. #517
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    Burlington, North Caroliona, USA
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    It took me awhile to get the measurements... I needed the assistance of my wife for anything like an accurate reading.

    I took them as best I could form the inside of the plywood edges (as if there were no inwales installed)

    no load 859mm - squeezed hard 825mm

    I put a lot of pressure on the boat ( metalworker by trade). It looked like almost all of the movement was coming from the the sheer panels.

    I have yet to install the seats, and there will most often be a motor mount clamped across the gunwales aft of the seat for my electric motor ( although I do not want to depend on this for structure as I am sure I will sometimes go without it.)

    I am still considering the possibility of outriggers if the boat proves too unstable for my clumsy nature. ( not the boat's fault )

    Thanks, Tom

  9. #518
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    Howdy Tom,

    Put the seats in .. they will make a big difference to the stiffness of the boat. Then retest.

    I would suggest putting in a temporary spreader in the middle to make sure the middle of the boat is the right length while the seats go in.

    Note that most people have moved the seats up a fair distance over the given height in the plan to give a more comfortable paddling angle.

    MIK

  10. #519
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    Well it is time to commit to a seat hight. Plans call for 100-120mm. Gandalf seems to have put his at 180mm. Any recommendations?

    I was thinking of adding a couple of rails to the bottom of the boat constructed like the inwales and spacers to lash things like the battery in place. My though was to keep any weight as low as possible and secure from movement or loss. Any thoughts on this?

    Thanks, Tom

  11. #520
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    Howdy Tom,

    Have a look at the lightweight Eureka built by two experienced canoeists.

    It looks like the seat top is about half way up the topside panel. They were pretty happy with the boat.

    But if omitting the centre spreader ... put one in temporarily to keep the boat the right width while the seats get fitted.

    MIK

  12. #521
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    Howdy Tom,

    Have a look at the lightweight Eureka built by two experienced canoeists.

    It looks like the seat top is about half way up the topside panel. They were pretty happy with the boat.

    But if omitting the centre spreader ... put one in temporarily to keep the boat the right width while the seats get fitted.

    MIK

  13. #522
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    Jul 2008
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    Hungary, Budapest
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    Smile another Eureka 155 in launched in Hungary

    Dear Boatbuilders,

    I am happy to inform you that the second Eureka canoe is ready in Hungary. The boat has a name already - Reshabar - it is the name of a wind that blows in the Caucasus Mountains in Russia.

    Attachment 106273

    The first one (one in the background) was done by me last year (I reported it on this forum) - the second one (painted) is made for the girlfriend of a friend of mine - who I helped out with building that turned out at the end that I built it 98% percent .
    Here you can see how it floats on the water.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqyWzNuOfOg"]YouTube - Eureka 155 launch - vÃ#zretétel 2 2/2[/ame]

    Here you can checkout a flickr photo-set as well:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/mezeicsaba/sets/72157617123898763/show/

    You will probably see that the glass-tape is well visible in the inside of the boat. Well, despite the fact that the tape was a good quality (I checked) it remained visible - it is probably because the plywood I used was dark colored (it is called Meranti). The outside was done with the cheapest paint I could find on the market and at the end I applied additional 2 coats of epoxy onto the paint which did not cause any problem but seemed to make the surface more durable.

  14. #523
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    Actually Csaba, this is the first time that two finished Eurekas were in the water at the same time!

    MIK

  15. #524
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    Default Eurekas

    Yes, and moreover my PDRacer will be finished soon - then we will have 2 Eurekas and a PD in the water at the same time - that will be videotaped and distributed in the forum for sure.
    At the moment another 3 Eureka 155 is being built in Hungary - report about building procedure will be reported.
    Happy building
    Csaba

  16. #525
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    Wow ,, Hungarian Eureka Club! If you had that many boats together, Koala and Theodor might make the trip from Slovakia as they have a Eureka and a PDR "in common"

    MIK

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