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Thread: Eureka Canoe
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3rd October 2009, 11:17 PM #541Chalkie
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[QUOTE=Boatmik;1041800]It is the real ME!
Or just use the number of clamps you have to glue on as many of the blocks that you can in one session. Nice little night time job.
Hi,
Just had a thought about glueing the blocks onto the inwhale, how about securing each one with a cabletie until the epoxy hardens/sets/cures/whatever?
Got another 6 clamps from my cheapie shop today. Bargain, they were having a sale and got them for half price. Just about got enough to adequately secure the inwhales and gunwhales when I get to that stage.
Malcolm
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3rd October 2009 11:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th October 2009, 03:37 PM #542
That is cool. Clamps are one of a number of things that tend to be expensive, but suddenly appear at bargain basement prices.
David Wilson at Duckflat drills each block and puts a nail through to stop it from sliding around. The nail just needs to spike into the inwale a small amount.
MIK
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5th November 2009, 02:34 PM #543Senior Member
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Another Eureka 155
Hi guys
About a week ago I was searching on the net for somewhere to go camping. I came across campsites on the Noosa River which is apparently good for canoeing. Somehow I ended up here looking at the Eureka Canoe! and as soon as I saw it I wanted one, So after a bit of reading I ordered the plans and placed my order for most of the bits and pieces. I have decided to build it from 4mm Meranti because it was only $32.50 per sheet and Boatcraft reckons each sheet only weighs .5kg more than the Gaboon.
I don't have any real woodworking skills, just what I learned from 3 years of woodwork at school 25 years ago, so hopefully it will go alright. I thought I would use the money saved on the ply to buy a hand plane, and after reading the forums I think I am hooked on them too - bugger. Hopefully I will be able to find a bargain one at the markets on Sunday or in the for sale forums.
I hope my stuff arrives soon, I am as keen as mustard. ........so much for camping
I'll keep you posted!
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5th November 2009, 09:30 PM #544
Onya mate!
Many very fond memories of the upper Noosa.
Canoe is the only way to see it. Especially in company of good friends.
cheers
AJ
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7th November 2009, 09:32 AM #545
Probably only .5kg heavier than 6mm gaboon.
I don't understand where they are getting their weight data from ... it doesn't add up at all.
But if they are comparing some of the crappy chinese gaboon with some of the lighter sheets of Pac Maple they might be right for some sheets.
Or if comparing the 4mm Pacific Maple with 6mm Gaboon they might be right too.
The Pac Maple is actually a whole range of species ranging from Keruing to Meranti so weight is very variable over the long term of supply.
They are a good supplier, but they are often a little expedient with data and you have to check it against actual data gathered over the long term.
MIK
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7th November 2009, 04:51 PM #546Senior Member
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Weight of ply
I just jumped on the scale and weighed the sheets, 7.2kg each. The 6kg as stated on their website could just be a roundabout figure to calculate freight charges. What does a sheet of Gaboon typically weigh?
Can I just clarify on the plan for the side panels before I cut them out - at the join there is a 6mm figure, does that mean the panel extends 6mm after the last 300mm mark.
thanks
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7th November 2009, 04:56 PM #547
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7th November 2009, 05:33 PM #548
For what it is worth, I bought 4 sheets of 6mm okume (gaboon) ply today and the bill indicated 84 pounds total. I didn't weight it so, who knows...?
Bob
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8th November 2009, 09:22 AM #549
Howdy Colburge,
Yes it does go 6mm beyond the final reference line. I think that must be the reason one of the current boats building is slightly the wrong length in that panel. I might shift things around a bit if I can still make it fit and make the measurement more obvious.
But if you have seen it then it has worked fine.
Do you know the real statement of "Murphy's Law" - That if there are two possible ways to do something, in a crisis the wrong one will be chosen!
MIK
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8th November 2009, 10:40 AM #550
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13th November 2009, 09:34 AM #551Senior Member
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panels glued
Hi again
I have finally managed to cut all the panels and trim them down, it seemed to take forever, but I wanted them to be exact. I glued the butt straps on last night - how long does botecote take to cure? It has become semi hard after 12 hours
Also should I run a trimming knife flush against the but straps to trim the epoxy before it gets rock hard, to make them neat. Or does the ooze somehow add to the strength.
Col
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13th November 2009, 09:43 AM #552
Col,
Leave them for 2 or 3 days to really harden up and yes trim off any ooze before it goes rock hard.
The second rule of epoxy is clean up as much as possible before it goes off or at least while it is soft as sanding thickened epoxy is time consuming (that's being polite).
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13th November 2009, 11:03 AM #553Senior Member
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Thanks for the reply,
I didn't realise that it took that long to harden up, I was beginning to think that I had miscounted on the number of pumps for resin to hardener. Luckily I had taped either side of the but strap on the inside, I just ran the knife down the edge and pulled up the tape. I should have just wiped it up straight away though.
Col
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13th November 2009, 11:29 AM #554
Usually overnight for most gluing jobs but from bitter experience I can recommend whenever there is likely to be tension on the joint it pays to leave it to really harden.
The butt strap joints on my build opened up when I pulled the pins the next day.
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14th November 2009, 09:55 AM #555
Depends on the weather too. I use the fingernail test. Try to dig your fingernail into the epoxy really hard. If it feels like rock then it is PROBABLY fine. But if there is a feeling of elasticity you will have to be careful.
MIK
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