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Thread: Eureka Canoe

  1. #571
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    Try to work wet on wet as far as possible. It saves a huge amount of labour.

    So stick a gloved finger in the pox and if it is much stickier than when it went on then roll on another coat. Don't try to put too much on each time. Just normal amount.

    MIK

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  3. #572
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    Try to work wet on wet as far as possible. It saves a huge amount of labour.

    So stick a gloved finger in the pox and if it is much stickier than when it went on then roll on another coat. Don't try to put too much on each time. Just normal amount.

    MIK
    Thanks, I will give it a go

    I got big air bubbles over each bit of wire when I did the inside, I pushed the wire into the groove, but the mesh still didn't go flat, I don't think there is too much I can do about it now. I know I will have a better time doing the bottom now I have had a go at the inside.

  4. #573
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    Hi

    I've been making a bit of progress with the Eureka, I have had a few troubles with different things here and there but worked them out. It is almost finished now and it's time to think about painting or varnishing it. Preferably I would just like to varnish it - but have no idea what varnish to use or how many coats I will need to calculate quantity etc. Could someone please give me an idea of how many litres I might need and recommend a product. I read a thread about it early on in the piece but I cant seem to find it.

    Thanks guys

  5. #574
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    Howdy,

    The varnish I tend to be biased towards is Goldspar. But any "spar varnish" will be fine. The Spar Varnishes have more UV filters than others.

    You get about 12sq metres per coat. If the boat is epoxy sealed I would go with a minimum of 3 coats with good sanding between using a block and 320 grit paper.

    A litre would be too little, but that varnish is available in a 2 litre tin, I think. If your supplier only has litre tins ... see if they will sell two to you for the 2 litre tin price. Sometimes they will - but the margins are pretty tight on paint and varnish so they might rightfully refuse. If they do it, then it is a genuine and significant discount.

    MIK

  6. #575
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    Thanks Mick, just the answer I was looking for.

    Col

  7. #576
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    Default racked with worry

    Hi all - I need help/advice/reassurance!

    We just mounted the roof racks on our car for the first time, and they look mighty close together - 1.2m at the absolute most, maybe less.

    I have images of mounting the Eureka on them for our interstate trip, tying the bow and stern down firmly for the drive, and getting home with the canoe bent into a crescent moon (is that what they mean by 'going off your rocker'?).

    Is it better to mount the boat upright or upside down (no rain expected)? Should I make up some sort of ladder-frame to support the boat further from the centre? Am I worrying about nothing? (the Eureka on the civic in one of the previous posts looks OK).

    What do you think?

    Regards, Jack

  8. #577
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    I will tell you in a week when mine is finished! I did go canoeing with my brother in law once up to Harry's Hut at Noosa, we had a 15ft fibreglass canoe strapped to gutter mounted racks, on an old Ford Laser. I was worried it might come off but it didn't even come loose, even over some really rough gravel roads meant for 4wd. It was held on with 2 ratchet straps and ropes front and rear, oh and it was upside down. I reckon you will be fine.

  9. #578
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    Howdy, The canoe won't be worried by it. With the ropes at the bow and stern tie the ends out to the bumper or some other point so they are similar to an inverted "V". This prevents them from moving sideways.

    MIK

  10. #579
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    This is how I transport mine... travel at 110km/h with no worries, didnt even budge a mm... I doubt there would be very much drag at all...
    Nick

    Fair Winds and Following Seas
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    PD Racer #276 - "Duck's Nuts" - Oz MkII with Lug rig
    Storer Eureka 155 - unnamed

  11. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickpullen View Post
    This is how I transport mine... travel at 110km/h with no worries, didnt even budge a mm... I doubt there would be very much drag at all...
    A boat on a car roof, especially upside down creates an awful lot of drag. Consider what is happening to the airflow over the windscreen. It is getting caught in the cockpit! The drag will be considerably less if the boat is right side up and the wind is flowing smoothly over that lovely hull Either way, a cover over the cockpit will help enormously.

    By the way, I had one of those Mazda Capellas once. As it was built before the days of catalytic converters and fuel recirculation systems, it had amazing fuel economy, in the low 5's in litres/100kms. Clearly a great car as yours is still going strong!

  12. #581
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    Howdy,

    Where air (or water) actually goes is quite hard to predict.

    The main thing to realise is if there is an obstruction in the way then it does push the air apart, but that "pushing apart" is propogated in all directions at the speed of sound but with a diminishing effect as the distance gets greater.

    This means that before the air gets to the obstruction it has already started to change direction.

    You can see the air changing direction a very large amount before it gets to the sails in this calculated flow diagram attached below (freehand ones are notoriously wrong).

    In this case the biggest restriction to the free flow of the air is the slot between the mainsail and jib, so the air goes out of its way to avoid the restriction. See how the streamlines move apart with the slot between the two sails as the focus of that moving apart.

    This slows the flow of air in the slot between the main and the jib and increases the air pressure helping make the jib more efficient. The effeciency of the mainsail is reduced by an equal or greater amount but the chance of the mainsail stalling is much reduced.

    If you thought the air was speeded up inside the slot, don't feel too bad about the mistake ... it was made by aerodynamicists for almost a century because nobody ever bothered to think about it properly until just before 1960!

    The more complete the obstruction the more the air will avoid the interior of the boat. A large part of the drag comes from the edge of the sheerline and having the boat upside down MAY reduce that part of the drag by making sure that more of the air stays on the outside of the boat rather than goes inside.

    So the obstruction presented by the boat may be dealt with sufficiently well before the air gets to the actual boat to help reduce the drag more than expected.

    In other words ... I don't have a clue whether it is better to have the boat right way up or upside down! But the air tries to minimise its loss of energy by choosing the smoothest path around the object.

    Best wishes
    MIK

  13. #582
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post

    In other words ... I don't have a clue whether it is better to have the boat right way up or upside down! But the air tries to minimise its loss of energy by choosing the smoothest path around the object.

    Best wishes
    MIK
    We should send this poser to MythBusters Mick!

  14. #583
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    I used to tow (and sail) a Dovekie, one of Phil Bolger's great designs...probably the only one to ever be produced in quantity (if several hundred is "quantity"). The boat came with a canvas cover that ran from the front of the large cockpit up and over the "roll bar" cum boom gallows and then back down to the aft end of the cockpit. I was towing with one of those wonderful Chrysler K-cars equipped with a 2.8 liter Mitsubishi four.

    If I towed it without the cockpit cover in place there was a huge increase in drag. If someone happened to be drafting behind me I would have to put the pedal to the metal to maintain interstate speeds.

    My gut tells me carrying a small boat on the roof right-side up will be more aerodynamic but only if it is fully covered. In the absence of a cover I'd guess upside down might be a little bit better.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
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  15. #584
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    That would be my guess too archie! But alas I have no evidence! So could be wrong.

    MIK

  16. #585
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    When we used to car-top our GIS, we tried both ways. We settled on RightSideUp (with the drain plug out) - mostly because it was easier to put up there and bring down that way. RSU, however, did seem to fight the wind a bit more. It wasn't as noticeable in a head wind as it was with side gusts. The Columbia River Gorge is one of the windiest spots on earth. There were times there when I thought a side gust might blow the boat, the van, the family and the dog right into the river. I still do car top the PDR - UpSideDown - and that's no huge treat either... but not nearly as squirrely as a GIS.

    Now we tow the GIS. Sometimes with a cover, and sometimes without. I haven't noticed any difference in gas mileage, but I like shaking the road guck off a cover far more than swabbing it out of the boat

    For a canoe... I'm no expert, but it seems like it'd be far simpler to carry it USD than to rig a cradle that'd allow it to be carried RSU?
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
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