Eureka Canoe

[colburge]

Hi:
I am about to start building my Eureka. I would like to have all the wood before I start and i am planning to build the decks with thin stringers from different colored woods, so i need the estimated distance from the end of the canoe to the bulkhead position in order to make the stringers a little longer. The plans does no say the distance, they only show measurements for the bulkhead drawing to be made. So following the instruction I would only know this measurement once i position the bulhead against the hull.

Could you tell em the aprox. distance from the ends of the canoe to the bulhead position??

Thanks in advance

Tato Lazo
Chile
__________

Hi

My bulk heads are around 760mm from the ends, and my decks are a 780mm with the over hang. I would go with 800mm to leave you plenty of room.\


Col

[tatolazo]

Col:

Thanks for your info, I would get the thin strips of wood in 1meter long.
I am planning to build up the center spreader laminated with different woods in the colors. The same as with the decks.

Do you think worth the effort to lower the seats to 10 cms. over the bottom or less???? If so, I am planning to place a little spreader in the rear of seat to work as reinforcement fro the canoe overall shape and back resting device

Tato Lazo
_________

[colburge]

Hi

1m will be easily long enough. I think that if you are going to play with the seat height lower would be better that higher for stability, but it might be uncomfortable to paddle depending on how tall you are. You can always put something on the seat to make it higher if it was too low. A Back rest would be nice to have too - my back really starts to hurt after a while, but I think it would be difficult to paddle with a back rest

If you want me to measure my seat height let me know, they are different to the plans I think, may be lower, I can't recall.

Col

[tatolazo]

Hi Col
would be nice if you can mesaure the height of the deats in yours. I will get the strips in one meter long , but the decks will be as yours, 78 or 80 cms. fron the end, and with a little overhang to cut it later a lttle curved and not perfectly straight from side to side.

I will wait for your measures.

Thanks for your time.
Tato Lazo

[colburge]

If will try to remember to measure it when I get home from work tonight, I will let yo know.

Col

[colburge]

Tato

The seats are 180mm from the bottom, I have no clue if that is anything like the plans suggest, i built it a couple of years ago no, and have lost the plans.

Col

[tatolazo]

HI Col

Thanks for your info, I guess the canoe is stable enought to paddle and operate with confidence, with the seats at 18 cms. right??

The plans do not show the height of the seats, or the long of the decks.

Almost ready to sart cutting next week.

Tato Lazo

[colburge]

HI Col

Thanks for your info, I guess the canoe is stable enought to paddle and operate with confidence, with the seats at 18 cms. right??

The plans do not show the height of the seats, or the long of the decks.

Almost ready to sart cutting next week.

Tato Lazo

I think It would be more comfortable to paddle with the seats higher, but would be less stable I think, I am not sure. If they are too low, you can always add a cushion or something to make it higher. Too high, and you will have problems fixing it.

I wouldn't stress too much about the seats just now, as they will be the last thing to go in, and you will have a better idea when you are at that stage.

Getting the hull, and centre spreader correct would be the most important thing to get right, and the rest I think -"close enough would be good enough".

I recall the hull and seats were relatively easy, whilst the bulk heads and decks were hardest followed by the gunwhales. The gunwhales were so hard to bend I ended up screwing them on at the ends and filling the holes later.



A few other tips -

* get nice thick copper ties to pull the hull together. I went thin initially because I thought the thin would be less visible, but they kept breaking and I went thick anyway.

* Add lots of filler to the epoxy, you want it to be a stiff mix, I made mine too runny initially, and it was a mess.

* If I did it again I would fillet the hull instead of the fiberglass tape, it was a pain in the bum laying it down and trying to get the bubbles out over the wire.

* make an extra effort to tape/cover everything up that you don't want epoxy filler on. It is the biggest nightmare to get cured epoxy off and it blunts tools almost instantly.


Good luck

Col

[tatolazo]

Hi Col:
Your are completely right. Thanks god I have a lot of skills developed with epoxy lamination, cause since 2007 I am producing 1 meter Radio controlled sailboats for top level races . I am planning to use a epoxy fillet and then a 140 grms. fiber tape over it ( Mixing both options of fillets and taping the ply strips.).

The putty will be made out of epoxy resin, few microballons, powder fiberglass (german product that turns the epoxy resin very strong and resistent) and few industrial chopped fiberglass to 3mm. All this will ensure me a non runny epoxy filler.

I was thinking about screw the gunwhales at the ends, scews a little under the surface and then use some wood filler.

Thanks for your tips. will ahve them in mind.

Tato Lazo.

[Flatdog]

G'day.
I find it amazing that I'm adding to this thread which has been going on for so many years. It can only be a credit to Michael Storer and the people that have put in their time and advice.
My wife and I have been talking over the last couple of days and we have decided we would like to build the Eureka together. We live on the northern edge of the Black Forest in Germany so we shouldn't have too much trouble with access to timber .
I guess the best place to order the plans would be the UK but I am not sure. Can anybody tell me if that is the best way to go from here.

Thanks. Kev.

[Flatdog]

I've been going through the material list for the Eureka. What is a fairing batten. It's got me stumped.

Thanks Kev.

[m2c1Iw]

Kev a fairing batten is a suitable length of wood, plastic or whatever that will produce a fair curve (no bumps or flat spots) when bent. A common size is 12x19mm x say 5-6mtrs although a range of sizes is helpful.

This site will give you lots of build info The Eureka Canoe - Introduction

BYW I assume you have sourced your plans if not I guess the UK is the best option.
Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans#|#Wooden and Plywood Boat Plans for Amateur Boatbuilders – Excellent Performance, Simple Construction, DETAILED Step by Step Instructions Australia, USA, UK, Hungary, S. Africa

Have fun

[Flatdog]

Thanks m2c1I w. There has to be a story behind that user name.

Yeah the UK is the best option but we have time. We're waiting for the best exchange rate seeing as the world financial markets are all over the place.

[m2c1Iw]

Miks plans are a boat building instruction manual as well as a set of plans to help you along the way so you won't be disappointed they are worth every cent.

[Flatdog]

My wife and I are really looking forward to building the Eureka. We're going to take our time and enjoy it. I've spent hours/nights looking through canoe plans and the size/weight/cost suits us perfectly. I'm having a bit of trouble accessing knot free Western Red Cedar here (Douglasie; German name) in Germany. Maybe I can find an alternative but I think a couple of kilos heavier won't matter that much and for us one of the main things is the look. It's a very beautiful looking canoe and we would like to build one we can be proud of and show off.