Powered Impact Screwdriver

[Normanj]

I'm considering buying an impact screwdriver. There are two topics on which I'd appreciate input:

1. Many seem to be re-chargeable. I would only expect to use it with mains power close by. Are there mains versions available and are there other benefits of using a rechargeable, apart from the obvious I may have missed ?

2. Any recommendations on which brands to buy or avoid (with reasons).

Thanks

[Master Splinter]

There's a Makita one at Bunnies for about $120ish that is mains powered. I keep getting tempted by it.......

[ecsk]

May I ask why do you want mains powered impact driver first ? IMHO cordless is a lot easier to use.

[Master Splinter]

If you don't need absolute portability, then mains powered has the advantages of: never goes flat, lighter than equivalent battery models, battery never needs replacement (typically at half the price of an entire new drill with two batteries), cheaper to purchase, never have to worry about finding the charger or waiting for it to charge.

I've still got my 600 watt mains Bosch drill, which was the first power tool I ever purchased way back in 1982. It's running just fine, and it's got pretty much the same range of features as the ones on the shelves now.

But due to the cost of replacement batteries as well as improving/incompatible battery technology, I'm onto my fourth cordless drill....so in 'holes per dollar', mains wins!

[Normanj]

May I ask why do you want mains powered impact driver first ? IMHO cordless is a lot easier to use.

I think Master Splinter summed it up well. There doesn't seem any obvious benefits in battery power unless I need to go where mains power is not available.

[gerhard]

Hi from Amsterdam,

Apart from the plentiful power supply of corded feed, the other advantage of a mains driven version is much higher torque. An impact driver has a hard life as it is, i find all those tiny gears and motors in battery stuff a bit dubious. The motor in mains powered drivers is often "down-rated" which means that, for its size, the amount of Watts pumped through it is reduced, to give it much more thermal reserves. Battery motors are too tiny to have much of a thermal reserve, they overheat sooner and are in many cases "over-fed" to meet the expectations promised in brochures.
The first blue Bosch impact driver was based on the renowned 650 Watts 16 mm drill, but with the same field and armature sizes this motor was rated at 400 Watts in the driver. With this reduced input the motor could cope much better with starting from zero in stalled or very high friction circumstances. The gear case on impact driver is often a bit bulkier and sturdier than the gear case of drills, too.

In short, there is no such thing as a light-weight compact heavy duty impact driver. The all-plastic models are to be avoided, unless they are meant for light duties only. Weight and rigidity equals durability and worst-case reserves. If you are a serious investor, wanting great service and long life out of a machine, go for professional. Most decent brands will offer fine machines, since they all know how to make them and have reputations to loose in railroad, automotive and high-rise steel construction trades. Bosch blue is good, so are Hitachi, Makita, DeWalt and Milwaukee. Many Dutch and German railroad construction firms are seen using the large blue Bosch models, or the much more expensive Fein equivalents. Many Dutch steel construction workers (frames for bridges, high-rises, greenhouses, factory sheds, etc.) seem to favor Hitachi.

If the tool must be battery driven, go for metal and bulk. The larger and the more metal content (gear case), the better. All-plastic tiny toys are no good for this particular application.

Success and greetings

gerhard

[gerhard]

Hi,

i just reread the original question. I read it wrong, my story above is about power wrenches (the ones with 1/4"or 1/2" fittings, driving hex nuts for metal thread bolts). Stupid, but not totally in vain. The theory "go for metal and bulk" stil goes, as do the claims about Bosch, Hitachi. Makita, DeWalt and Milwaukee making good versions.
The sturdier they are, the longer their service life and power reserves. And the fact that a mains driven machine provides much more torque than a battery driven one, also remains true in this case.

Sorry about the confusion!

gerhard

[Kyle]

There's a Makita one at Bunnies for about $120ish that is mains powered. I keep getting tempted by it.......

Are you sure it's an Impact driver? The only mains Makita Impact Driver I know of is around $500.

While I aggree with everyone on the cost/power/longevity advantages of a mains drill or impact driver.

For ease of use, convenience and not having a lead ever getting in the way, give me the cordless version any day.
My mains drills live at the bottom of my tool box and only ever come out for things like heavy steel drilling or 80mm hole saws into timber.

[The Bleeder]

Normanj,

Are you looking for something similar to this

Makita 6952 270W Impact Screw Driver

or this

Makita 6826 1/4" Scrwdrver General Use 1.5kg 570W

if it is the first you'll probably get a better deal on a cordless like these

SYDNEY TOOLS - Makita 14.4v Cordless Impact Driver

Just shop around. I got a dewalt 12V Impact driver for $300.

[Normanj]

Thanks to everyone who passed on their comments. As usual, some very helpful observations.

Regards

normanj

[Master Splinter]

I'm positive its a Makita impact driver...$129 at Bunnies...thats just over $1 per newton-meter of torque.

6952-Impact Screwdriver

or read this thread:
What to look for in a powerdrill - Renovate Forums

[AstroGaffer]

Hi folks,
I too am looking at the cheap ($129) Makita corded impact driver from Bunnings. I have about 500 14 gauge 75mm galvanized screws to drive into hardwood. If anyone has used this drill for any length of time, do you think it is up to the task?

[Master Splinter]

Read this thread on the renovation forums, and ask there:

What to look for in a powerdrill - Renovate Forums

[Normanj]

I eventually decided on a Makita 6952 270W Impact Screw Driver (mains). I tried it out at the weekend. This was the first time I've used a powered driver and it was trickier than it looks in the TV Lifestyle programs. I was screwing a hardwood deck and though I pre-drilled the holes the screws were reluctant to go in. I suspect part of the problem might be that the driver bit that came with the screws might not have been the best quality, and when it jumped out of the screw head (caught me by surprise) the bit became rounded so the driver ended up hammering the screws in. I'll need to practice with different pilot hole sizes.

[ian]

Hi folks,
I too am looking at the cheap ($129) Makita corded impact driver from Bunnings. I have about 500 14 gauge 75mm galvanized screws to drive into hardwood. If anyone has used this drill for any length of time, do you think it is up to the task?

a 75mm x 14g screw is a serious sized screw, and hardwood is tough

I haven't seen the Makita that's $129 Bunnings, but I own an earlier model midrange Makita corded impact driver, and based on it, my guess is NO.
Using my Makita, driving the self tapers used to assemble a kit shed is a breeze -- compared to using the screw driver function on a battery drill the Makita hammers the screws home in less than the blink of an eye.
However, screwing dry wall screws (which are 7 or 8g?) into hardwood is right at the machine's limit -- I wouldn't even try driving 14g screws

for comparison, the last time I asked the price of the Metabo corded impact driver recommended for roofers (the USE 8), the price was ~$550. The smaller/cheaper drivers didn't have the oomph to drive roofing screws the necessary short distance into hardwood.