Texas GIS

[arbordg]

Aaah, but I now know the trick to getting it our of the hair, courtesy of my hairdresser daughters. "Gee dad, everyone knows you just use a cotton-wool pad moistened with acetone!" Yes, it does work, and no, I didn't know that!

That works if you catch it while it's still wet. Several solvents will work for this task.

[arbordg]

John,

Great fotos. Is that your daughter reflected in the first one? She's lovely, and that foto is uniquely interesting. Definitely a keeper.

[SimonLew]

John - looking good. You may have done yourself a favor waiting to drill after glassing. I drilled one hole before glassing and it chipped the wood. The other holes I drilled after glassing and they are super clean. Then you just seal the hole with epoxy and it's done. I drilled the holes slightly oversize, filled completely with epoxy and will re-drill the correct size for the rope handle. This seals the wood forever.

[woodeneye]

That works if you catch it while it's still wet. Several solvents will work for this task.

Do not use other solvents on hair! There was a particularly sad case here a couple of years ago when a woman used turpentine on her child's scalp to remove head lice and the child died from the absorbtion of it through the skin. Don't use other solvents and keep it off the scalp anyway.

A bit of heat from a hairdryer softens epoxy, and with the acetone it slides right off. Acetone is quite mild and is used in the hair industry for removing hair extension bonds, which are sometimes attached with a type of resin.

[john goodman]

We cut and shaped 68 inwale spacers today. I hope it is enough. We made a jig to sand a concave radius into the edges to create a little interest. Even with us being outside we still used the gas mask to keep from breathing in the wood dust. We saved the wood dust to use for filler if needed.

We used (3) 60 grit cylinders to get 56 of the spacers shaped. I am going to buy (3) 60 grit sanding cylinders to finish the rest. I think the (3) 150 grit cylinders I have will be plenty to resand them all.

My epoxy order came tonight, so I glued up the transom timbers, trimmed the chine logs and rearranged the garage in order to go 3D next week.

[MiddleAgesMan]

Great pics, especially that last one.

[john goodman]

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/THE313%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]
The instructions say to align the face of the bulkhead plywood with the bulkhead pencil marks on the edge of the plywood.

Which face?

The face towards the bow?
OR
The face towards the stern?

[woodeneye]

This was also a question I pondered, so I hope I was correct as there is no going back now!

The ply face is aligned to the bulkhead line, which means that the “ply faces” of BH’s 1&2 face rearward, and the faces of BHs 3&4 face forward. I'll confirm this evening when I get home and have a look.

As there are two ply “faces” this is probably something that Mick needs to look at in the next revision of his instructions.

I guess the worst case scenario is that the bulkheads will be out by 6mm, so this is probably not a huge issue, but it may have ramifications for the seats, centre case and mast positions.

I have attached a pic of my build.

[MiddleAgesMan]

IIRC the "faces" are the sides you can see easily when the bulkheads are installed: aft faces of #1, 2 and 3 and forward face of 4.

[john goodman]

Flickr: Texas GIS' Photostream

We glued the chine logs, notched the bulkheads & finished the transom. Then mocked it up this evening.

I am not very happy with the gap between the bulkhead notch and the chine log. It is 2-3mm in a couple of spots.
1) So do I glue the pieces back in and recut?
2) Shim the gaps?
3) Trim the sides of the bulkheads down 3 mm? (lots of work and it makes the boat narrower)
4) Just go for it and use some filler to seal the gaps?

And thanks for the clarification on the ply face locations.

[callsign222]

Flickr: Texas GIS' Photostream

We glued the chine logs, notched the bulkheads & finished the transom. Then mocked it up this evening.

I am not very happy with the gap between the bulkhead notch and the chine log. It is 2-3mm in a couple of spots.
1) So do I glue the pieces back in and recut?
2) Shim the gaps?
3) Trim the sides of the bulkheads down 3 mm? (lots of work and it makes the boat narrower)
4) Just go for it and use some filler to seal the gaps?

And thanks for the clarification on the ply face locations.

2 or 4.

I used 4, and I had a substantial gap in BH3.

Mik has examples in his Flikr account of large gaps that can be filled with epoxy. And someone here told me, "there's no mistake that can't be fixed with epoxy."

You don't want to change the dimensions of the boat just for some gaps, right? There goes 3. Number 1 will give you another weak attachment point, and the the next cut could negate your fix anyway if your blade wanders.

[woodeneye]

Hi John,

Everybody seems to have problems with the notches in the chine logs, so you’re not alone! Check my blog.

For me, I felt more comfortable with getting it right, so I reglued the cut out pieces and notched them again. With some BHs it affects the height of the seats. But you are right, as Mick says, everything can be fixed. If you want to be pedantic, to compensate for the extra height you can take off some material from the top of the BH as well. If it’s only a few mms the shape of the hull won’t be affected much, if any.

I’ll shortly be posting on fitting the bottom, and in it I make reference to this. In my experience, it is easier to adjust the notches than to shim the gaps. However, I did still have a slight gap in two BHs once I’d bevelled the chines. In my blog which will be posted tonight, I’ll show how this was remedied.

[callsign222]

Wait, is this gap an up and down thing, or a sideways thing?

[Boatmik]

IIRC the "faces" are the sides you can see easily when the bulkheads are installed: aft faces of #1, 2 and 3 and forward face of 4.

It is not a biggie. All the bits *seats/tanktops) are big enough to cover whatever the result is.

The intention is as MAM says.

MIK

[Boatmik]

Flickr: Texas GIS' Photostream

We glued the chine logs, notched the bulkheads & finished the transom. Then mocked it up this evening.

I am not very happy with the gap between the bulkhead notch and the chine log. It is 2-3mm in a couple of spots.
1) So do I glue the pieces back in and recut?
2) Shim the gaps?
3) Trim the sides of the bulkheads down 3 mm? (lots of work and it makes the boat narrower)
4) Just go for it and use some filler to seal the gaps?

And thanks for the clarification on the ply face locations.

Hi John, If you put some woodflour (very fine sawdust from a sander) in the glue mix so it is similar to the timber and fill the gap nobody will be able to see it.

I am a bit spoilt because the Bote Cote fillers are pretty similar to the gaboon colour.

Masking tape can be useful to prevent the filler getting in the woodgrain around the filled area.

One thing to be aware of when colour matching with wood flour is that if you use just wood flour it ends up a lot darker than the timber it came from. So if your glue powder gives a light colour mix you use the wood flour to move the mix closer to the wood colour.

If you really want to disguise it after that you can copy the wood grain pattern using a graphite pencil. This "dodging in" is an artform in British car dashboards - but a bit of dodging after the surface is sanded lightly will make a big difference as the eye doesn't see the lack of woodgrain.

Actually I would not usually worry about dodging ... just know that others will never see 3mm of filler in the chaos of woodgrain directions represented by the interior of the boat. But I am one lazy guy.

Varnish hides defects very well because it promotes that visual chaos.

Best wishes
Michael