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Thread: Texas GIS

  1. #286
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

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    Yep. Blades in the bow, hanging from straps. Handles at the middle seat, also hanging from straps.

    BTW--straps are rigged through and hang from the gunwale spacers.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/

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  3. #287
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

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    Thanks for the pictures of the oars. Mine will need to be cut down by an inch or so to fit properly.

    All the decks are glued, as is the 1st layer of gunnels. Do you ever have enough clamps?

    Went round and round with how to add floatation to my GIS. The pictures show the floatation bags going under the middle seat. The bags are recycled coffee & wine bladders from boxed wine & coffee. I will be sewing mesh closure panels (like you find on backpacks) for each side of the bulkheads. They will be fastened inside the seat and have draw strings to close them up to secure the floatation bags. Will inflate most of the bags, stuff them in and the last bag will be inflated inplace to create a tight fit. When not using the floatation bags these areas can be used as secure storage to keep things from falling out of the boat when I capsize.

    The purple foam was from another solution that was dismissed because it was too complicated. I doubt it will be used.

    You can see in the picture a large weight sitting on the mast step and there are 2 in the aft compartment just above the saw horses. After getting the saw horses and boat level these weights were used to hold the boat down just incase one of the kids, myself included, bumped the boat the alignment would not be messed up. Used the laser level again for final twist check. The bottom of the boat, middle seat and aft deck are all level, but the front deck drops 4 mm on the starboard side at bulkhead 2. Not bad and I think a good kit has helped keep things straight and level.

    My son and I where out in the garage at 1am cleaning up goo. This was one of those tough love momnets. He did not follow directions closely and it created a mess, so he got to clean it up.

    I have made a deal with my neighbor about how late and which nights we work late with the noisy tools. Their bedrooms are next to my garage, plus their kids go to bed early. I really need to have them wear ear plugs because I have hours and hours of sanding to do.

  4. #288
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

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    We will be setting the inwale spaces in a few days and I need some opions on the oar lock mounting.

    I have seen some that add a mounting block on top of the gunnel. Why?

    Is the oar lock receiver screwed to (2) inwale spacers pushed closely together?

  5. #289
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Portland, ME USA
    Posts
    837

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    John, Yes mount the oarlock socket to an extra long inwale spacer. Make it 12" aft of the middle thwart, as a general rule of thumb for placing the oarlock.

    You don't need the pads. THose are for looks mainly and when you don't have a nice inwale to go through like we do on the Goats.

    Clint

  6. #290
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

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    We have glued the gunnel and rub rail on and have noticed the bow area has a strange shape now. Just behind the bow the gunnel has a slight concave shape as it bends inward toward the centerline of the boat. It is only an 1/8" inward bend over about 18 inches of length. It is something I did not expect to show up after the gunnels were glued on. We have not glued in the breast plate or the inwale yet.

    Is this concave shape in all GIS?

    The attached sketch shows the location. I'll try to get a picture soon.

  7. #291
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

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    There is a shallow concavity along the sheer at the bow. It's probably 12 inches long--the deep point being 6 inches back from the stem. It probably extends down a little but I can only see it at the sheer.

    Interesting about the boxed wine bladders. I've decided to use a few to supplement the sealed air boxes in the stern of my current build. The air chambers will support the engine, fuel tank, battery, and a smallish human. I figure about 16 3 liter bladders will support another 200-250 pounds.

    I did some experimenting today, in fact. I shoved an inflated bladder into the dead space between the bottom and the floorboards. It would not go in very far so I let out air until it would go all the way in. It was out of sight and there was room for a second bladder without encroaching on the open space below the lift-out floorboard panel. When I withdrew the partially inflated bladder I tried to shove it back into the 3 liter box the wine came in. It would not fit.

    This leads me to the assumption that a 3 liter wine bladder fully inflated will displace at least a gallon of water and probably a little more...7-8 pounds?
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/

  8. #292
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

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    We are fitting the inwales and has a question concerning their thickness. We are using fir and finding that it does not twist properly at the bow in front of bulkhead 2 or between 3 & 4. The inwale needs to twist slightly in order to make good contact with the spacers. We can force it with lots of big clamps, but it just seems to be harder than I expected. In the picture labeled "inwale" there is a gap of about 3-4mm where the inwale is not touching the spacer.

    This can be overcome with lots of clamps, but would just shaving 2mm off the thickness make it twist easier and help with fully contacting the spacers?

  9. #293
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by john goodman View Post
    We have glued the gunnel and rub rail on and have noticed the bow area has a strange shape now. Just behind the bow the gunnel has a slight concave shape as it bends inward toward the centerline of the boat. It is only an 1/8" inward bend over about 18 inches of length. It is something I did not expect to show up after the gunnels were glued on. We have not glued in the breast plate or the inwale yet.

    Is this concave shape in all GIS?

    The attached sketch shows the location. I'll try to get a picture soon.
    Hi John, there was a slight concavity in mine that disappeared when the inwales were fixed in place.

  10. #294
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

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    Quote Originally Posted by john goodman View Post
    We are fitting the inwales and has a question concerning their thickness. We are using fir and finding that it does not twist properly at the bow in front of bulkhead 2 or between 3 & 4. The inwale needs to twist slightly in order to make good contact with the spacers. We can force it with lots of big clamps, but it just seems to be harder than I expected. In the picture labeled "inwale" there is a gap of about 3-4mm where the inwale is not touching the spacer.

    This can be overcome with lots of clamps, but would just shaving 2mm off the thickness make it twist easier and help with fully contacting the spacers?
    Yes, the twist is more than you think isn't it? I used screws with plywood pads to glue the inwales and worked my way along the entire length, clamping and screwing. Once the epoxy had cured, the screws were removed.

  11. #295
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Portland, ME USA
    Posts
    837

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    I am always amazed at the kind of tensions and forces epoxy and lock in when there is a good faying surface and proper glue job. But when it feels like it is too much, it never has paid for me to force it...the wood will give, not the glue. So, when in doubt, shave a little to relieve some tension. This part of the hull is where a lot of things are happening so don't be surprised to find reversing curvature and compound curve.

    --Clint

  12. #296
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

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    Underneath all that saw dust and epoxy finger prints and drips there is a beautiful boat trying to get out. We cleaned the garage and the boat yesterday.

    I removed about 3mm of thickness to get the fir to bend/twist a little better. It still was very springy and hard to twist. Used all 32 clamps to keep the inwale in place while the epoxy set. Yes, that is one every 5 1/2".

  13. #297
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

  14. #298
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

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    Quote Originally Posted by woodeneye View Post
    Hi John, there was a slight concavity in mine that disappeared when the inwales were fixed in place.
    I measured the concavity in this bow area after the gunnels & rub rail were glued and cleaned up. Before the inwale was glued in the depth of the concave area was 1/8" on one side and 3/16" on the other.

    After the inwales and knees were glued in and cleaned up the concave area is now perfectly straight. Visually it still looks concave, but with a straight edge (metal ruler) is measures as straight. It is an interesting optical illusion.

  15. #299
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

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    Quote Originally Posted by Compass Project View Post
    exterior gloss house paint sounds great for average Joe's using the boat in an average way. You guys are going to use the boat hard, so my vote is for real marine paint. It is all the same, the single part polyurethane types, Pettit Easypoxy being the most kid friendly I have found after a lot of boat painting with kids using many different brands. Put some flattening agent in the last coat on the inside to keep the glare down.

    Clint
    I just bought some of the Interlux Brightsides. I've spent all this money on this boat already, why am I cheaping out on 20 extra bucks? I was at the local independent marine store, and it was there, and I was buying the Pre-Kote anyway...

    I also bought a trailer. So the paint was nothing in comparison.


    Boat's looking good John.

  16. #300
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

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    Rolled the boat over tonight to start on the hull. The bottom panel butt joint is not flat. There is some waviness in the seam and I need to fair out the panels better.

    So it it better to sand (feather) the uneven plywood so its all level or add fairing compound and not sand the plywood much? The offset is about 1mm in a few places.

    I believe I did not have near enough weigh on all my butt joints, but the bottom is the worst.

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