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Thread: Shaving oars

  1. #1
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    Default Shaving oars

    Has anyone got a plan for a good shave horse for working on oars. Bloody hard things to hold. The best thing I have found is a young women to hold them for me on a saw horse.
    I am learning, slowley.

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glenlara View Post
    The best thing I have found is a young women to hold them for me on a saw horse.
    That would be the fully adjustable design, make sure you keep paying her well.

  4. #3
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    My oars (and a mast and two spars) are all made on my normal bench. I clamp the lump in the wood vice and just nail a lump of wood to the other end of the bench for the oar to rest on.

    Attachment 134951
    click on the pic to see a larger version - sorry it's not clearer

    The supporting lump of wood isn't overly obvious but you can see some shavings hanging off it up near the blade. Although this oar is still square, this system works even when the oar is round

    Richard

  5. #4
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    Yes i have done it that way too. But I want to do it outside in the sun, also i dont have to clean up the shavings.
    I am learning, slowley.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glenlara View Post
    Yes i have done it that way too. But I want to do it outside in the sun, also i dont have to clean up the shavings.
    Do it the same way - clamp it to a saw horse and prop the other end on something. Even when round you'll be able to hold it.

    If you want to get fancy, just cut a large V in a block of wood, set the end of the oar in that and clamp the lot to your saw horse (you'll get contact on the two sides of the V rather than just the top of a flat surface).

    Richard

    btw, where's the problem with a scantily dressed young lady holding the oar still while you try to work on it ... oh, I see the problem now, and I guess your missus wouldn't aprove either

  7. #6
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    If I got two girls to hold the oar, it might be safer. can only try.
    I am learning, slowley.

  8. #7
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    Yep, Daddles, is right.

    Cut a couple, or more if you have the saw horses, of V blocks.

    Clamp your oar loom blank in and start planing.

    Straight oars are pretty simple to build, also a lot of fun because you can see a result in a day.

    Lots of info on the net about this subject if you are not too experienced.

    I sometimes build 3 oars. Because I build the blades fine and damage can and will occur.

    A spare in the shed is a great thing to have.

    Paul.
    I FISH THEREFORE I AM.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOOKED.UP View Post
    I sometimes build 3 oars. Because I build the blades fine and damage can and will occur.

    Paul.
    What are you using for timber Paul? (and don't say unobtainium or dead trees )

    Richard

  10. #9
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    HI Richard,
    I use to use "unobtainium", but I can't get it now. LOL.

    I live in Tasmania. We have some good hardwoods. Blue Gum, Stringy bark and swamp gum.

    My favourite is Blue Gum, very tough, but heavy, so the taper of the loom needs to be rather large at the grip end, (above the rowlock) for balance.

    Stringy bark is almost as good and a little lighter.

    I no longer use swamp gum. It is lighter than all the pines, (air dried that is), but it does not really like water and deteriorates quickly if not looked after.

    The real trick is to find a mill which air dries their timber and then hopefully the owner will also let you pick through their stack to find some nice clear lengths.

    As with all things in boat building, it is about getting the material you want to work with.

    Paul.
    I FISH THEREFORE I AM.

  11. #10
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    Hardwood eh?

    I've been using Pinus Crapiata ... with much success I might add though two of my three sets are fairly short. I would like to move on to a 'real' timber (not a glorified weed).

    My current oars (2.5m long) are being made out of 'New Zealand Clear Pine', as it was named by the timber yard. It wasn't till I got home and started working it that I discovered how light and soft it is, so I suspect I might have a breakage. I'm going to finish them though, just to see how they go. Lovely timber to work.

    Richard

  12. #11
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    Yep, I think I am familiar with "Pinus Crapiata", most, so called marine suppliers sell that brand of oar and paddle.

    The main reason I use hard woods, is because I believe oars are hard working tools, not accesories to a boat.

    I push off, sand and rocks, use the oars as beach rollers if needed and any other job which requires a stick of wood.

    I love rowing, so my oars are an extension of my arms.

    Just do the best you can mate.

    Paul.
    I FISH THEREFORE I AM.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOOKED.UP View Post
    HI Richard,

    I live in Tasmania. We have some good hardwoods. Blue Gum, Stringy bark and swamp gum.


    Paul.
    A couple of years ago I bought some King Billy Pine for the shafts of a couple of kayak paddles. I found it in a timber yard near Queenstown.

    The old gentleman who served me agreed that King Billy was a good choice. he said that was what they used to make oars from.

    Have you considered King Billy Pine? It made great paddle shafts.

  14. #13
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    King Billy pine, is a wonderful timber.

    Very light, straight grain and easy to work.

    It was used extensively for boat planking, because of it's ease of use and the long straight grain would conform to shape very well.

    It is now quite hard to find any quantity. Also very expensive.

    The down side of this wood is the fact it is so soft.

    If you were treating your oars roughly, as I do, they would not last long.

    My prefered choice for all boat building applications is, Celery Top Pine.

    Probably the best all round boat building timber available.

    Paul.
    I FISH THEREFORE I AM.

  15. #14
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    Hi Paul, you are right about the King Billy Pine being soft. I have a couple of ton of it shaped into a motor sailer. The Gunwales and toe rails get a real beating ( rafting up to plastic boats most weekends) but the are easy to touch up from the tender.
    The use of good Tassy Hardwood for oars is a great idea, I have broken the cheap pine ones when proping up some of my big boats after unplaned dry outs on those sneaky sand bars found around Brisbane Waters NSW.
    Please refresh my memory, where is Nubeena?
    Ian L
    "Wavedancer"

  16. #15
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    Ok Guys I will prove my novice status, what is "unobatainium"?
    Ian L

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