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  1. #1
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    Default Embedding Ceramic Tiles into Floorboards

    Any tips?

    We are just about redo the hallway. We have 6 inch Baltic t&g boards (about inch thick), which I will sand and finish, probably with Tung Oil. For something a little different, we are thinking of embedding 5 or 6 feature tiles (about 1 every 650mm) into the middle board. I will make a jig up so I can rout out the square for the tiles, and chisel out the corners.

    However I am wondering about finishing over the top of the tiles? Should I leave them unfinished and just take the coat up to the edge, or finish across the top of the tiles. The tile people didn't really know, they suggested recessing the tiles a bit deeper and laying a protective glass/laminex across the top. Any suggestions?
    There was a young boy called Wyatt
    Who was awfully quiet
    And then one day
    He faded away
    Because he overused White


    Floorsanding in Canberra and Albury.....

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  3. #2
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    you could epoxy over them, which would encapsulate them and offer a hard wearing surface, but as tiles already ARE hard wearing, I suggest "softening" the edges of your recesses - a 3mm round out to do the trick - then finishing the boards with your tung oil....once thats gone off, glue your tiles in place - I feel making the tiles level with the floor is the way to go and adding a flexible filler around the edges just to finsih the whole thing and prevent ingress of crap.
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  4. #3
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    Thanks, what if I was to finish over the top of the tiles with the Tung Oil, do you think it would hold okay or would it flake or crack?
    There was a young boy called Wyatt
    Who was awfully quiet
    And then one day
    He faded away
    Because he overused White


    Floorsanding in Canberra and Albury.....

  5. #4
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    I doubt that it would be a happy marriage - it will dry hard, but will not be able to "integrate" with the tile glazing in any way ..... seriously, I doubt you need to finish them at all.
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  6. #5
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    Yeh, I think your right. If we just ensure no crap can get in the hole and that the wood is ealed upto the tile we should be okay. Now what about gluing a tile to timber, any special glue?
    There was a young boy called Wyatt
    Who was awfully quiet
    And then one day
    He faded away
    Because he overused White


    Floorsanding in Canberra and Albury.....

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by seriph1
    you could epoxy over them, which would encapsulate them and offer a hard wearing surface, but as tiles already ARE hard wearing, I suggest "softening" the edges of your recesses - a 3mm round out to do the trick - then finishing the boards with your tung oil....once thats gone off, glue your tiles in place - I feel making the tiles level with the floor is the way to go and adding a flexible filler around the edges just to finsih the whole thing and prevent ingress of crap.
    Great answer and the one to go with.

    The Tung Oil won't laminate that well to the tiles and will eventually flake off. Plus, also, too, and as well the Tung Oil will oxidize and yellow off, so even if it was to stay stuck to the tiles, eventually it would completely mask the detail of the tiles as it aged and darkened.

    Overall your plan sounds good and will look quite effective.

  8. #7
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    I doubt even special glue is required as the tile is only required to stay in place ...... to be totally certain I guess a slightly flexible bond agent like high grade sikaflex or similar - but even a good quality silicon will do the trick as it/they can't really go anywhere - will be keen to see the outcome once done ..... BTW what age is the house?
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  9. #8
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    Thanks for the tips. I think just sikaflex around and under should be okay. No Tung Oil across the top, and a tight fitting hole.

    The house is about 50 years old, and we are renovating room by room. The hallway is the only room with Baltic, the rest is Cypress. I'll send some photos of the hall once once we are done.

    Cheers
    There was a young boy called Wyatt
    Who was awfully quiet
    And then one day
    He faded away
    Because he overused White


    Floorsanding in Canberra and Albury.....

  10. #9
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    Since reading your post I was reminded of a house I saw with a row of one inch tiles down either side of the hallway a few inches out from the walls. I seem to remember that they were a deep green and the boards were quite dark. I can't remember whether they were in a linked diamond pattern or just laid straight. It must have taken a bit of work.

  11. #10
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    thanks ..... can you describe the tiles? Also, I think it might be best if the tiles are exactly flush to the floor, making one continuous surface - I originally thought they might be better if 2mm lower, but don't believe that would be best.....

    sikaflex is black I believe - will that be ok for the "grout" when up against the tiles?
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  12. #11
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    My memory is hazy on the details. I couldn't tell you what kind of tile it was.
    The more I think about it the more I believe they were a running diamond pattern. It was in an old semi in Kirribilli and it was an original feature which means it was probably done with a hammer and chisel. It probably took longer than the Sistine Chapel.
    The reason it stands out in my mind is because I was installing a phone extension and one of the floor boards was loose. It was where the guy kept his stash.

  13. #12
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    lol- I see ...... and it looks as though we got ourt posts mixed up - I was responding to namtrak's previous - not that it matters .... i will tell your story over dinner tonight



    thanks
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  14. #13
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    You could use a flexible tile adhesive to attach the tiles (thinking Ultraflex, or trade Resaflex, check the instructions first) then use Bostik Colour Seal or Fuller Caulk in Colour (think that's the name) in an appropriate colour choice to seal around the edges.

    HTH.........cheers..........Sean


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  15. #14
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    Cant describe the tiles just yet, haven't bought them yet - but they will be about 100mm square, any bigger and they will straddle the floor boards which I am confident is a no-no. We are looking at pastelly, sort of sixties swirly pattern which links the yellow colour of the floor with the green of the walls (Thats swmbo's theory anyway - and I am happy to run with it)

    And yes your right, I will set them flush to floor
    There was a young boy called Wyatt
    Who was awfully quiet
    And then one day
    He faded away
    Because he overused White


    Floorsanding in Canberra and Albury.....

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