Your latest project

[RayG]

Hi Ewan,

I think it was done in one of their vacuum furnaces, not sure about the tempering. These are a forum group purchase project. There are various threads in the turning and handtool forums.

Regards
Ray

[Steamwhisperer]

RayG put me onto a neat little chainsaw sharpener that would suit my needs, thanks Ray.
This was to be the basis for my new carbide scraper grinder. I finally got around to it today. I have deviated from the norm, well the ones I have seen anyway. Instead of mouinting the work-rest on an angle I angled the wheel. The rest is also on steel instead of a block of wood. I also included a guide so I could maintain the 60mm and 90mm radii that the other Phil had cut on the inserts.
I now have a swag of sharp carbide scraper inserts. Woo Hoo!!

Phil

[Bryan]

Nice one Phil. I'd been thinking about a radius guide and you've shown how to do it simply. Do you find it easy to use? Anything you'd change? I've been removing my blade to sharpen because I got woolly results otherwise.

[Anorak Bob]

RayG put me onto a neat little chainsaw sharpener that would suit my needs, thanks Ray.
This was to be the basis for my new carbide scraper grinder. I finally got around to it today. I have deviated from the norm, well the ones I have seen anyway. Instead of mouinting the work-rest on an angle I angled the wheel. The rest is also on steel instead of a block of wood. I also included a guide so I could maintain the 60mm and 90mm radii that the other Phil had cut on the inserts.
I now have a swag of sharp carbide scraper inserts. Woo Hoo!!

Phil

Neat.

Are you going to make a lapping wheel Phil or just settle for the diamond wheel finish? At the 'fest, Bruce reckoned that the off the diamond wheel finish cut better than the lapped finish.

Bob.

[Steamwhisperer]

Nice one Phil. I'd been thinking about a radius guide and you've shown how to do it simply. Do you find it easy to use? Anything you'd change? I've been removing my blade to sharpen because I got woolly results otherwise.

Hi Bryan,
It surprised me as to how easy it is to use. It takes more time to turn the insert over than grind the edge. All up about 30 seconds per cutting edge. That was one of rays inserts that didn't have a radius. The only thing I would change is the colour. It's getting a coat of paint in the morning
I took some footage as well but it wont download to the computer for some reason.

Neat.

Are you going to make a lapping wheel Phil or just settle for the diamond wheel finish? At the 'fest, Bruce reckoned that the off the diamond wheel finish cut better than the lapped finish.

Bob.

Hi Bob,
All the bits for the diamond lap are on the floor next to the bench. I am going to try without lapping first just to see what the finish is like. My wheel is 400 grade and didn't grind up too bad. (for a novice)

Phil

[Ueee]

Hi Ewan,

I think it was done in one of their vacuum furnaces, not sure about the tempering. These are a forum group purchase project. There are various threads in the turning and handtool forums.

Regards
Ray

Hi Ray,
Very nice, i've never had anything done in a vacuum, its to $$$ for bigger items. The swords cost about $50 each as it is, and the scale isn't too bad. Mostly they temper in hot oil, but not so sure about HSS. You may have covered this in the group buy already, but did you find a source of steel locally or did you get it from overseas?

Ewan

[jhovel]

...At the 'fest, Bruce reckoned that the off the diamond wheel finish cut better than the lapped finish.
Bob.

Bob and Bruce, an unhoned blade may cut faster because it has "teeth" under a loupe. These chip off pretty quickly and then you have to resharpen again because the resulting rake will be random. A "toothed" tip will also leave cat scratches instead of nice smooth scrape marks.
A well-honed tip will leave nice shiney smooth scrape marks and stay sharp longer.
I think as amateurs we should have an occasional look at the tips under 20+ magnification to verify the edges.
I very rarely find a nice smooth edge on mine when I look.....

Cheers,
Joe

[Log]

RayG put me onto a neat little chainsaw sharpener that would suit my needs, thanks Ray.
This was to be the basis for my new carbide scraper grinder. I finally got around to it today. I have deviated from the norm, well the ones I have seen anyway. Instead of mouinting the work-rest on an angle I angled the wheel. The rest is also on steel instead of a block of wood. I also included a guide so I could maintain the 60mm and 90mm radii that the other Phil had cut on the inserts.
I now have a swag of sharp carbide scraper inserts. Woo Hoo!!

Phil

Woo Hoo all right, very noice , and simple.

Just wondering, does the flange on the grinder run nice and true, I hate , grinders where the flange doesn't run true.

Cheers.

If I'm not right, then I'm wrong, I'll just go bend some more bananas.

[Abratool]

Bob and Bruce, an unhoned blade may cut faster because it has "teeth" under a loupe. These chip off pretty quickly and then you have to resharpen again because the resulting rake will be random. A "toothed" tip will also leave cat scratches instead of nice smooth scrape marks.
A well-honed tip will leave nice shiney smooth scrape marks and stay sharp longer.
I think as amateurs we should have an occasional look at the tips under 20+ magnification to verify the edges.
I very rarely find a nice smooth edge on mine when I look.....

Cheers,
Joe

Thanks Joe, I will try a hone, but so far the diamond wheel seems to do a beaut job.
I can see your reasoning to hone, it makes a lot of sense.
I will report back later.
Bruce

[RayG]

Hi Phil,

That came out well, I've still got mine just clamped to the bench.... just for the sake of a test, try grinding on the top or bottom of the diamond wheel, that is with the grinding sort of parallel to the scraper edge, I found that gave a nicer edge, i'd be interested if you found the same. ( I already planning to copy your design )

Hi Ewan,

The M2 steel was a bit of a drama, it came from Bohler Udderholm, and they weren't all that flash to deal with.. I ended up paying for the balance of the sheet of 7mm..

Bohler in Austria won't ship single sheets of M2 to Australia, there is a minimum order of some tonnes...

Regards
Ray

[Steamwhisperer]

Woo Hoo all right, very noice , and simple.

Just wondering, does the flange on the grinder run nice and true, I hate , grinders where the flange doesn't run true.

Cheers.

If I'm not right, then I'm wrong, I'll just go bend some more bananas.

Thanks Log,
Hmmm, did the flange run true. When I fixed it it did. It had been machined true enough but whoever put the oversized chamfer in the hole put it just a little to one side and made it wobble all over the place. When it sat against the shoulder on the shaft it kicked it over just enough to be annoying. I took a skim off the back enough to negate the chamfer and all is well. I turned up a smaller one for the outside.

Hi Phil,

That came out well, I've still got mine just clamped to the bench.... just for the sake of a test, try grinding on the top or bottom of the diamond wheel, that is with the grinding sort of parallel to the scraper edge, I found that gave a nicer edge, i'd be interested if you found the same. ( I already planning to copy your design )


Regards
Ray

I might give that a go tomorrow Ray. I could just rotate the work rest 90 degrees where it is or as you say relocate to the top or bottom of the wheel. If I can find my microscope I will take some pics of the edges.

Phil

[Steamwhisperer]

Here is a really bad bad video of it in action.
I promise to do better

Phil
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-g-mSIAsfw"]Carbide scraper sharpener - YouTube[/ame]

[Graziano]

Phil, that scraper sharpening setup is definitely getting into the "Elegant solution" territory.

[Steamwhisperer]

Phil, that scraper sharpening setup is definitely getting into the "Elegant solution" territory.

Thanks Graziano,
It still has to be BT'd yet. Hopefully it will end up pretty and elegant.
So far the whole project has cost about $40 and surprised me as to how well it worked. There is another hole set back 90 mm from the wheel face for the large radius on the insert. Even with wear on the wheel face it will be more accurate than my freehand pathetic excuse for grinding

Phil

[Abratool]

Hello fellow scrapers.
Spent this morning trialling grinding the carbide edge on a diamond cup wheel & using it that way
versus
Grinding then lapping.
Checked the results under a 60 power scope.
Results....
I get a better result with just leaving the carbide in the ground condition.
The carbide cuts faster & seems to last very well.
Lapping in my opinion, seems to dubb or take the edge off the carbide.
Its possible, because the abrasive particles are " charged" or pressed into the softer substrate of the lap that they yield or roll during the lapping process, & do not provide the sharper edge of the grinding process where the abrasive particles are firmly anchored.
I cross checked my results against a couple of brand new Sandvik scrapers loaned to me by Pete F. The new Sandviks had the polished lapped edges & did not have the "bite" or cut or resultant surface finish I got from the ground insert.
Thats been my findings, so far.
I got interested in "just grinding" the carbide after talking with Marko during the recent course, & discovered that this was the method he used.
My next trial is to experiment with Ray Gs idea of grinding to provide scratches in the lengthwise direction of the carbide.
Its interesting trialling various ideas, & I suppose everyone will have their favourite.
regards
Bruce