Mitre sled

[Rocker]

Here is a pic of my mitre sled. The edges of the right-angled triangle of MDF are faced with sandpaper to prevent slippage of the workpiece, which is held in place by a toggle clamp. Mitres cut on either side of the jig should produce a square joint, even if the saw kerf does not precisely bisect the right angle of the MDF.

Rocker

[stephenmeddings]

Hi Rocker,

I've seen a similair idea at a Triton demo night. They used a triton protractor with two longer fences (with sandpaper) screwed onto the angeled faces to give plenty of support for whatever length you are joining. Then in use, the point of the triangle is facing the blade. So as long as the two peices you are joining are cut, one on each face then you'll end up with a perfect join. The beauty with this idea, like yours, is that if one face is at 44° the other will always then be 46° and so a perfect 90° join.

They suggested get a spare protractor from Triton and leaving it setup just for this purpose if you tend to use it a lot.

Stephen

[Caliban]

David
I made a similar one, but Stephen is right, yours will end up with perfect 90degree joins, mine won't.
Well done, back to the drawing board for me.

[PenRex]

How can I make one of these to use on a triton table??

It's a great mitre-jig.

[Rocker]

Penrex,

I have not got a Triton setup, so I can't help you. Maybe some Tritoneer can advise.

Rocker

[silentC]

The problem you have with the Triton is the lack of through mitre slots.

You could make it so that the runners straddle the table. Or you could make it with shorter runners so that the base of the jig extends beyond the runners allowing clearance from the blade at either end.

Actually, do a search on "triton sled". I'm sure someone has posted something on how to make a sled, then you could adapt it to this application.

Otherwise it would be identical.

[driftwood]

How can I make one of these to use on a triton table??

It's a great mitre-jig.

Hi Penrex

Many people have trouble with the protractor on the triton saw allowing a tiny bit of movement which opens up the joint. SOme can get it to work but some cant.

If you lock the protractor on the table in the crosscut mode it cuts out the slop as you then move the saw not the protractor. Just screw to longer pieces to the protractor and then cut them so you know where the reference point is for the saw blade.

However I never feel quite safe with my hands under the saw while cutting.

Good luck

driftwood

[Barry_White]

How can I make one of these to use on a triton table??

It's a great mitre-jig.

PenRex

I made one up today to fit the Triton. I cut grooves in a piece of MDF to match the two mitre slots in the table. I then cut two pieces of plastic bread board to fit in the slots in the MDF and screwed them in.

I will post some pics tomorrow of how I did it.

[Barry_White]

PenRex

Here are the pics of my Mitre Sled. To set it up I layed the piece of MDF on the table square to the edge and central on the table and marked the two mitre slots on the front edge of the MDF. I then measured from the edge of the MDF to the first mark and set the fence to this measurement.

I set the saw blade height to 5mm and ran the MDF through to make the first saw cut. I then moved the fence 5mm to cut the other side of the slot. 5mm + the thickness of the blade 3mm makes that 8mm the width of the mitre slot. I moved the fence back 3mm and cleaned out the centre of the groove.

I then measured the distance between the mitre slots and added that distance to the fence measurement to cut the second groove and repeated the first process of cutting the groove.

This gave me two grooves in the MDF that lined up with the mitre slots in the table. I then cut two lengths of white plastic bread board 8mm wide 300mm long and fixed them into the grooves in the MDF and screwed them in.

This allowed the MDF to slide on the table without any movement.

I first looked at using the two strips of timber to run along the outside edges of the table as suggested by silent C but I found that when the tables are stamped out the corners ar fractionally wider than the centre and the strips jamb when you pull it towards the back of the table.

[routermaniac]

bazza good work...

Also a suggestion for a modification that could come in handy... If you turned the board around and fixed a horizontal fence, then one side could be used as a crosscut sled and the other as your mitre sled.

PS are you happy with the accuracy of the mitres its cutting???

I have been meaning to build one of these jigs for a while... might get myself to safeway for a new breadboard


routermaniac

[routermaniac]

sorry bazza just saw your pics again... my suggestion wouldnt work, your side arms for the sled extend all the way to the back... anyway might give it a go and see how it pans out.

[Barry_White]

routermaniac

I just used it today to make a very large picture frame 850mm x 1200mm and it is spot on, much more accurate than trying to do them on the SCMS.

[Kris.Parker1]

Thanks for that info. Makes it a lot easier than drawing a square with a bisecting line from diagonal corners like I have been using.

[Vic-wood]

You could also use a protractor and steel string bound between to nails on a board to use against the fence.

AD.

[Kris.Parker1]

G'day Vic-Wood, I am a Seymourite from a while ago, born and bred. Welcome to the board.

Cheers

Kris