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  1. #1
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    Default Brass to wood glue?

    Hey all, I'm after info on a glue that will fix polished brass to wood. I'm turning small cylinders which will be bases for a hollow base brass fixture. I can make the tolerances precise enough that the brass needs to be pressed on to the base but would prefer to have the components glued together.
    Thanks for any advice.
    Sheddie in the Shed
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


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  3. #2
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    Default

    I have used epoxy (good 24 hr stuff, not 5min) after roughing up the brass for keying to the epoxy better ( brass and ironwood, and brass and flame she-oak). I am still using the wooden plane and cutting gauge and there is no evidence of failure. I think you could also use CA, have used this on wood but never used it between wood and brass - don't see why it wouldn't work.

    Good luck,

    Chris
    If you can't laugh at yourself, you could be missing out on the joke of the century - E.Everidge

    the Banksiaman

  4. #3
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    I have made a couple of tools with brass faces from plans and they instruct you to use supper glue to hold it before you put in the fancy brass screws. I don't know whether the glue does the job and the screws are just for show or the screws do the work and the glue is just a temporary hold or just belt and braces.
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  5. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shedhand View Post
    Hey all, I'm after info on a glue that will fix polished brass to wood. I'm turning small cylinders which will be bases for a hollow base brass fixture. I can make the tolerances precise enough that the brass needs to be pressed on to the base but would prefer to have the components glued together.
    Thanks for any advice.
    Sheddie in the Shed
    Brass and timber is the typical pen maker's combination. So a bit of research in the pen makers area will tell you that most use either CA or epoxy, with equally good results.

  6. #5
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    Default

    If CA is super glue then I've bought and tossed hundreds of tubes over the years. It never sticks anything for me -not even my fingers. Its up there with Gladwrap as one of the most useless inventions ever- IMHO .
    Might try the epoxy. Can't use screws unfortunately.
    Thanks for the tips anyway.
    Sheddie in the Shed
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  7. #6
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    Default

    Sheddie, the CA or super glue you have used - was it the good stuff?

    As the old Castrol ad used to say "Oil aint oils, Sol"

    Likewise with the super glues. The worst is from the $2 shops or other el-cheapo sources. The good stuff will cost but it will also work. [currently the prices in the 2010 C'tec catalog, p267 ranges from $20 - $24 per 80g bottle, I have also found the LokTite brand available from bearing services and possibly Blackwoods to be good also.

    Regards,
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob38S; 19th November 2010 at 09:05 AM. Reason: Spelling

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shedhand View Post
    If CA is super glue then I've bought and tossed hundreds of tubes over the years. It never sticks anything for me -not even my fingers. Its up there with Gladwrap as one of the most useless inventions ever- IMHO .
    Might try the epoxy. Can't use screws unfortunately.
    Thanks for the tips anyway.
    Sheddie in the Shed
    Yes, the stuff sold in little tubes can be a bit hit or miss, I've had the same sort of experience. Most pen makers buy it in little bottles available thru anyone who sells pen kits, it seems to be a much better quality product. Various grades (thin, med and thick), with different setting times. Not cheap, so if it's a one off, I'd likely stick (pun indended) with the epoxy.

  9. #8
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    Default A note from a penturner

    As others have said "Oils ain't oils". The best CA is from C'tec, Jim carroll, Gary Pye et al.

    If you don't want to buy so much in one go then Loctite is equally as good - if not better.

  10. #9
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    Ah, yes. I'd forgotten about Loctite- that's a good product from memory. Its not a one-off job, I'll be making hundreds of the things so maybe Epoxy is not the way. I'll give the Loctite a go. There'll be no pressure on the joint. The round brass fitting will sit over a 5mm rebate so I reckon the loctite might be the go.
    Cheers and thanks for the advice all.
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  11. #10
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    Default any luck?

    Im trying to glue a 50mm brass disc to the end of a piece of dowel.. Ive roughed up the dowel end but the brass end doesn't seem to rough up much even using a 40 grit sand paper, least not enough that i'd think it would give teeth to bite to the glue.
    Im using marine grade 2 part epoxy, but it popped off after i gave it a bit of a push so no good..
    any ideas?

  12. #11
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    Try polyurethane, you’ll need to clamp the join somehow as poly foams up and will push the brass off quite happily. Make sure the brass is keyed with 40-60 grit and wiped with metho or acetone.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Try polyurethane, you’ll need to clamp the join somehow as poly foams up and will push the brass off quite happily. Make sure the brass is keyed with 40-60 grit and wiped with metho or acetone.

    Any particular brand, maybe the titebond stuff.. ? I love their titebond III for wood to wood. so this might be the go?
    Polyurethane Liquid Glue – Titebond Glues and Adhesives: Woodbond Adhesives Pty Ltd

  14. #13
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    Never used Titebond poly but I don’t see why it wouldn’t be any different to the Sika brand that I use.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  15. #14
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    Default

    Shellac

  16. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OLDBROWNDOG View Post
    Im trying to glue a 50mm brass disc to the end of a piece of dowel.. Ive roughed up the dowel end but the brass end doesn't seem to rough up much even using a 40 grit sand paper, least not enough that i'd think it would give teeth to bite to the glue.c Im using marine grade 2 part epoxy, but it popped off after i gave it a bit of a push so no good. any ideas?
    If you really want to key the brass use a sharp metal working scribe and scribe multiple times at shallow angles and right angles to creates a criss cross pattern.

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